carnau

Ok. So the reason this happened (or should I say the most common reason) is because someone pressed the brake pedal really hard (maybe getting into an accident. That's where I see it the most) The new OEM booster can absolutely have this happen again. More than likely you won't have this happen again. But it is man made. Things break. That's why I got a job. Is it a 2500 diesel? If it is a 1500 you dont have a hydro booster. Vacuum Boosters are easy to replace. You remove the master cylinder (do not disconnect the brake lines) it has 2 bolts holding it on. Disconnect the vacuum. Take the through rod loose from the brake pedal assembly (it has one 10mm bolt and a slide to hold the BPPS on) and then you remove four 15mm nuts and the booster comes right off. No you can ABSOLUTELY do this yourself. It is super easy. https://amzn.to/2NO9OfW is the part you need. Here is a video (I know it is a 2006 but the principles are the same.) You don't have to adjust the rod depth though on a 2016.

The dealership didn't know what to do with this? You have a leaking diaphragm. I repair these all the time. They are really bad on the Acadia,Traverse,Enclaves. Replace the brake booster assembly. If you have a hydro booster let me know and I will explain to you how to do it on that because the diaphragm is different on those. What is happening is when it sits a long time the rod slips in the diaphragm and after you press it, it reseats it. That's also why you can press it extremely hard and get it to make the noise.

Unfortunately if the LED part of the headlamp is out, You will have to replace the whole assembly. I priced one the other day and it was around $1300.00 for a GM headlamp assembly for these vehicles. I Have not been on the inside of one of these yet, because if you disassemble the headlamp assembly they will not take the core back and that is $300. Could just buy a aftermarket set. But they are never as good as OEM. https://amzn.to/2BQSEvm But for the cost you can buy 4 sets by the time you buy one GM headlamp.

This sounds like a starter bearing squeal.

Hey Everyone. Thought I would explain a little about the transfer case codes we run into on these vehicles and how to diagnose and repair it if you run into it. !!!ALWAYS CHECK YOUR POWERS AND GROUNDS FROM THE START!!! Power Comes from the under hood fuse block. TREC Fuse 30Amp. It is HOT at all times. Ground is G110 Located on the Frame, Body mount under driver’s door. C0306 Motor A or B Circuit On the C0306, One thing to check for is that the grounds tend to cause this concern. I have run into many loose or broken grounds from other components using the main ground for the encoder motor and interfering with it. So check all your grounds. Battery ground to the engine and frame, the Head ground most likely will cause this. G110 is the Encoder motor main ground. It’s located on the frame rail under the driver’s door attached to the body mount bracket. C0321 Transfer Case Lock Circuit On the C0321, Check the Transfer case control module for corrosion in the connector. If you ever had a windshield replaced and it wasn’t sealed right. It seems to be the place the water wants to go. Check for water intrusion on the connector. Another common failure is when encoder has been replaced or repaired and the position sensor was not aligned correctly. I will be making a video of how to install a new sensor and the alignment process for this as well. Again, Check ground G110 just to be on the safe side. I like to remove and clean this ground whenever I do this job. C0327 Encoder Circuit Malfunction On the C0327, Check to see if the wiring harness is in the bracket. Sometimes the wiring harness will not be installed correctly after a repair was done (replacing transmission, transfer case, encoder, and it will hang down and rub the front drive shaft. This will cause a number of issues, many of times I have seen this. If all the wiring tests good, more than likely you have an encoder motor position sensor failure. Replace the sensor and the gasket and it should repair the concern. Again, Check G110 just to be on the safe side.

Can you take a video of the noise and post it. I have run into many water pumps causing these noises on startup and then going away when it gets hot.

I have this in an 85 K10 that I built. 383 Engine, NPR Trans with a 373 rear end. I Upgraded my TC to the 89-67L though. The only big upgrade I did besides clutches.

Clean your throttle body with cleaner and it should fix it. You have throttle body coking.

This is the best advice and the way I would go. Now, before GM decided to go with "change the whole transmission" for the torque converter shudder. They were having us replace the fluid, if that didn't fix it, replace the torque converter and if that didn't fix it replace the transmission. Just something to think about.

Ok. So i think you meant to say you have a P050D not a P0050 from the way you have described it. A P050D is a cold start rough idle code along with the p0300 which is the misfire (the rough idle you're feeling) Normally this is because of low flow from the fuel injectors and once they are warmed up, even though they are flowing less than normal, you do not feel the skip as much. Check out this post I made on this. It explains what you have going on and how to check it (even though you will need the help of a GM tech to test is correctly. But if you ask them to just run an injector drop test for you and print it out, they will probably not charge you for it.)

Servicing your truck has nothing to do with the fuel injection system. With fuel as terrible as it is right now, If you don't put a injector cleaner in your vehicle every so often, You will have bad injectors. Just the way it is. Check out this vidoe on how to replace them and just do them yourself. I am guessing you're in Canada or something like that with km. So goto your local auto parts store, Pick up all the injectors and then goto a dealership and get the 2 fuel pipes and do it. It's an easy job. here is the problem with changing just one. You have to remove the fuel feed pipes. When you do that, They have to be replaced. If you change just 1 and then another goes out, You are just throwing money away. Those pipes can not be reused and if you try, they will leak. Trust me.. I have tried multiple times to try to save them for people. Here is the video.

You have a bad master cylinder. I did one of these not to long ago.

Are you sure it is just the drivers side front? The reason I ask is if the passenger side front it also locked up but removing the bleeder valve on the drivers side also relieves the pressure from the passenger side as well. This would be a fault with the Master cylinder. I have run into that in the past.

Buy yourself an inexpensive code reader. https://amzn.to/2BdGpJf You're willing to throw parts at your vehicle on the basis that they "could" have the same problem as you. This is not a good idea. If you want help, I would be glad to help you diagnose it. But we need more information to get there.

Exactly. You're not having an 02 sensor problem. I have an idea of what you have going on though. I have seen this several times when people get their trans replaced. They will bring them to the dealership after they have been replaced with exactly what you have going on. The wiring harness to the High pressure fuel pump and the injectors are underneath the manifold and they run over the back of the engine. Sometimes when the transmission is reinstalled it will pinch the harness between the engine and the transmission. This will cause a P0300 and a reduced power concern. It could have been disconnected by accident when the transmission was removed as well. Start there IMO

Could you show me a picture of the body plugs you're talking about please. I will see what I can do to find them.

Check out the Range AFM disabler. ( https://amzn.to/37ZYQgJ ) I am actually doing a review video on it now. I hate to send it out because it's still not complete and private at the moment. But if you're interested send me a privcate message and I will give you a link. I will upload it here when I am completely done with it. Should be this weekend when I am done and have it completed.

Hey buddy. I'de like to try to help you fix this. Just need a little more information please. When you say the truck control light, Which light do you mean?

Ok, Is someone going to charge you for this? There is no such thing as a battery reset for the computer. Trust me, I know. I have put in 1000 batteries in these trucks and never ever have had to do this. I also work at a GM dealership with a mass of other techs who also replace these batteries never having to do this. Let's start by doing this. Who installed the battery? 9 times out of 10 if someone else installs your battery other than a tech you will have this issue. On top of the battery itself is a Battery block. A lot of times things either get left loose here or the metal bracket gets cracked during removal. This is a very thin piece of metal that transfer the power. Below is a picture of the Battery Block. The next picture has colors on it and I want you to check this the way I explain. First, The green circles on the image. I want you to gently wiggle these wires and see is they are loose. Also take an 8mm Socket and tighten them up just to make sure they are tight. A lot of times these will be left loose and are not seated correctly. Make sure they are in the right order too. You will see numbers on them. Number 1 cable should go to number 1 on the block ect. After all these have been checked and made sure they were tightened correctly. Goto this step if you have not found the problem. Take a test light (a cheap test light with a cheap bulb is the best. So don't spend a lot of money if you don't have one. Buy the least expensive one that's NOT an LED test light. You do not want an LED) and test all the red spots on the picture to the ground. So connect one side of the test light to the ground post and touch the red spots with the other and make sure they all light the test light up FULLY. If one is not as bright as the others, make sure to let me know. They should all light the test light up bright. Let me know what you find when you have checked this.

No problem. The way it sounds is like you have a bad touch screen. That the screen is separating and when it does this, the GPS will wander and the stations will jump ect. Luckily this could be a really easy test if your dealer is willing to help you test it. The touch screen can be removed and installed from another like vehicle very easily. Test drive it with the other screen in it and see what happens. If it goes away, Reinstall the old screen in the other vehicle and the new one in yours. It's only four 7mm bolts holding it in and takes less than a minute to remove and install. This is the way I would go with it.

Ah. That means the BCM program is not correct.Or the remote is not correct for the vehicle. 1 of the 2

Do you know the codes in the vehicle? Most of the time it is just a trailer brake switch located on the inside of the vehicle Especially if the code is a C1117 and Especially if you never tow anything. I would say 90% of the time. If not it is more than likely the relay or corrosion in the trailer brake plug itself. If you get the codes it will help very much. It will not hurt to drive with this, it will annoy you more than anything. Here is a video on how to replace the switch. It is really quite simple and inexpensive.

I can't hear anything on your video. Please read what I posted above and answer. Thank you.

I'm sorry. I wish you would have quoted me or @carnau me so I knew you responded. I would have been happy to look at it for you. Even if the low voltage was causing an issue, it wouldn't be just with the things you see on the display. !!!Luckily!!! Friday I had a vehicle come in doing this exact same thing! I want to ask you a few questions please. When it starts wandering, Do you hear a beep? Like the beep when you press the map and try to move it manually? Also, Do the steering wheel controls for the radio work while this is happening? Sorry I missed your response. I don't check this site as much as I use to now that the adds have it so slowed down to a creeping hault tryind to load. I normally just check it when someone quotes me in something or every few days.

I feel like you should have made a new post for this. Lol. The liftgate will open, just the glass will not pop? Is this correct?