carnau

See above post. Edit If you go to the 7:37 min part of this video you can see the tape on the right side of the condenser where I am installing it.

I am a GM Tech. Lol. The problem with the condensers is the weld. The heat from the transmission causes thermal cycling on the combination transmission fluid/oil and AC condenser cooler creates a crack. The tape... Lol Just as you guessed is... (drum roll) THERMAL TAPE! What it does is transfer the heat from the weld and doesn't allow it to crack. (even though I have replaced the one's with tape leaking in the same place.) Hope this helps.

You're right. I don't deal with it everyday. I don't know why I thought I knew what I was talking about. Well, Enjoy working on your street rods. It really is a lot of fun.

Well I own a GM Dealership. It's a family business and I have worked in the Service department since I was old enough to turn a wench. I have been the Shop foreman for the last 20 years. You may have purchased an extended warranty from an aftermarket company or even a GMPP warranty and had many of repairs done under warranty. But getting GM to give you any warranty repair other than the one time good will... Will never happen. There could be a special coverage (like the one you have on the Tahoe's and Yukon's for the condenser's) But you only get one good will warranty repair. I have many of Street rods myself. Including the one in my profile picture which is my every day driver. Currently building a 1958 corvette and I have a 1918 Buick in the show room that I completely restored. If you would rather wrench on a street rod and spend hours of your time negotiating in the hopes of a repair instead of wrenching on your every day vehicle for an hour... Your time must not be that valuable. Again, My suggestion is only an option. Not forcing you or anyone else to do anything your uncomfortable doing.

Sure. Go ahead and negotiate. They will happily use your one time good will on a ac condenser job. But when you're steering module, your HMI, or something that actually requires a part that costs over $1000 and you call to try to negotiate... When they tell you, "Sorry, we already gave you assistance before..." You can fork out the $2800 it cost to replace the steering gear. Extended warranty is also really nice. You have a Minimum $100 deductible and if you don't have a deductible you paid way more than the cost of the job in the first place. But to each their own. I'm just pointing out that you can do this yourself and save yourself a lot of hassle. Then again, some people are better negotiators than repair men as well. Just throwing out other options.

You shouldn't have any issue! It's a simple repair.

You can literally do this job yourself, under an hour for less than $300. I could understand if GM had this huge engine related failure where the truck was a complete loss unless you had extensive Mechanical knowledge. But it's not. You could literally do it with your girls box of tools. Lol. Also, It's the air conditioning. Nothing that's going to prevent the vehicle from running. $300 and one year of middle school shop class and you can do this job. And $300 is expensive. $120 condenser - https://amzn.to/2K10zH0 Ac System service to charge system to 1.32lbs - $75 - $100 $100 to buy any tools you don't have. 1 hour of your time. And watch this video.

Ok, So we all know AFM lifters have been known to have issue and I have seen a lot of people post tricks, or preventative maintenance, or the most farfetched information I have ever seen in my life explaining why they tend to go bad. So, With that being said. I thought I would give my view on what I have been seeing and what is causing the lifters to fail. The first thing and most important thing is… MAINTNANCE! If you fail to service your truck like you should, you will definitely have an issue. I would really recommend not using the oil life monitor and changing your oil every 4000-5000 miles. You can use Synthetic or non-synthetic oil if you follow this schedule. Oil has come so far from 10 years ago that regular oil is not that different (as far as breakdown and effectiveness) than synthetic oil. The AFM activation and deactivation is controlled by the VLOM (valve lifter oil manifold). It has 4 solenoids that direct the flow of pressurized oil to the AFM lifter when controlled by the ECM. Now this is why changing your oil is key. The filter underneath the oil pressure sensor controls contamination from clogging AFM lifter. If the filter gets clogged from trashy oil it will cause low flow to the AFM lifter and cause it to fail. The amount of pressure the AFM lifters need to operate is 25-65 PSI of oil pressure. It needs 22 PSI of pressure to unlock the pin releasing the Lifter. This is why proper maintenance is critical. That’s the main cause of the lifters failing, even though many other things can cause it. Modifying your ride height of the truck can cause an over activation issue. Poor fuel quality will cause the same. Larger tires causing engine strain causing over activation and the obvious… Faulty parts. Everything is man made and prone to fail at some point. Just wanted to put my 2 cents out there. I will also link a video to the removal procedure for replacing the AFM lifter. I am working on another video for the installation now. I hope this information is informative and helps someone!!

More than likely it is just the oil pressure sensor. You don't have the filter under the sensor on the old body style but the sensor is in the same place and the replacement is the same minus the filter. Look at the video above. Still blow the passage out to make sure nothing is clogging it.

Going to add this to this discussion too.

Ok so I wanted to post a little explanation of how I personally test the P050D code to find out if my injectors are bad or not. This also works for High or low fuel trims. So Here is the injector drop on a bad set of injectors in a 2016 Silverado. Here is the same truck after the injectors have been replaced. So brand new injectors. Now. With the new set of injectors if we follow the GM guidelines for testing the injectors. We should add all of Each bank up. So 1,3,5,7 and 2,4,6,8 then multiply it by 0.20 and that's the allowable drop. (1,3,5,7) = 134.8/4 = 33.7 x 0.20 = 6.74 (2,4,5,8) = 175.4/4 = 43.85 x 0.20 = 8.77 So bank 1 each injector should be above 26.96 and below 40.44 And Bank 2 each injector should be above 35.08 and below 52.62 Or if you wanted to add all 8 together you can do 1 drop for the whole vehicle. 310.2/8 = 38.78 x 0.20 = 7.76 So every injector should be between 31.20 and 46.54 The problem I have with this method is bank 1 has farther to go to be over fueling and bank 2 has farther to go to be under fueling. That's why I like to do each rail separately. Now with that being said. I have not run into any over fueling injectors yet. Doesn't mean I won't but I have a pile of under fueling injectors and here is my rule of thumb. If it under 26 on bank 1, I am replacing those injectors. If it is under 36 on bank 2. It is getting those injectors. Following this method has not let me down yet. Here is a video on replacing the fuel injectors as well. I hope this helps everyone, and at least gives you some kind of explanation on the P050D, P0174 and P0175. If you have any questions, send me a message or follow me on Twitter @cdarnau and send me a message there. I will be glad to help you as much as possible.

No the injectors are not covered under the powertrain unfortunately. I don't know why it took them 3 days to find it. They should have been able to just do a Fuel injector balance test and look at the drop rates and tell you if an injector was bad. The injectors are not hard to replace. I actually made a video on replacing them. Send me a message if you have any questions or need and help.

You sure it isn't the condenser itself? There has been so many issues with them. Here is the video on how to replace it if this is actually the problem.

You can literally do this job in less than an hour. Here is the video on how to do it.

I will check.

Yes sir.

Here you go. Sorry had to wait till I could get back to work to get you this information.

Whats the VIN number and I will look it up.

If you're going the tech2win way I would recommend the MDI2. The peer to peer is unbelievable. Just a suggestion.

Ok, So actually I have been doing a lot of research into aftermarket scan tools because that seems to be a hot topic. Luckily for me I teach at a college and I work at a dealership and have access to a lot of scan tools without having to buy any. I still have purchased a few and I will give you some feedback on what I have found. The tech 2 has and always will be my favorite scan tool. I really do like the GDS 2 but I started working on cars with the Tech 1 and when the Tech 2 came out I remember saying... Nothing will ever be better than this. And for as cheap as you can buy them now, I bought my own personal one. You can pick them up for $350 and it will do everything you need it to do from 1996 to 2013. The only problem is... It only is good for GM Vehicles. Tech 2 - https://amzn.to/2umeWyg The next scan tool I will talk about is the Snapon Solus Ultra. It is what we use at the college. I know you said non GM/Snapon but I figured I would out them in with the review. This scan tool works very well and It pretty much has all the capability of my Tech 2 accept for the programming aspect. Sometimes it even works a little better when I am graphing out ABS wheel speed sensors or anything I need to graph because the snapshot feature actually snap shots more than just the current data module you are in. The problem is, I hear they are not updating it anymore so we will be looking into upgrading it shortly, and they are expensive. But It is still a great scanner. This scanner is as close to the solus/tech 2 I can find. One of the students in my class purchased this scanner and it is very nice. It still costs more than a tech 2 but it will work on multiple cars and is 100x cheaper than a Solus. Its a Launch CRP Touchpro scanner (or atleast thats the name on his, could be other ones with a different name) I was supprised at all it could do. It would communicate with the most bus on some of the newer entertainment systems, it would communicate with the ABS and the SDM for brake and restraint failures. It was easy to use and kinda rugged. It had a lot of relearn features on it. We cleaned the throttle body on a 2010 silverado and it started to run off and was able to relearn the idle with it. I am not sure if it will relearn what you're looking for, but it has special functions for alot of modules. It was $400 and even amazon has it with good reviews. https://amzn.to/2HJmxj1 The next 2 I will tell you about, I wanted to try a bluetooth one that would connect to my phone. I purchased the Auto doctor app on my iphone and I bought the cheapest bluetooth/wifi OBD2 ( https://amzn.to/2Tz6Psg ) which was $9. It will read and clear codes in the ECM/TCM but that's it. It will read you some data, but it's pretty much useless. I bought the Blue driver ( https://amzn.to/2Fut11J ) and hooked it up to an Ipad. It works pretty nice and the range is remarkable. lol I gave it to the service writers at our dealership so they can do a quick scan on customers cars for people just walking in to get the codes read. It will do all the major modules, data from those modules and has some special functions. But it is just a cheap bluetooth scanner. Nothing serious. Would be great for someone who just tinkers but not for anyone really trying to Diag cars. In reality, you get what you pat for. But if you're only looking to work on your GM truck/car... Tech 2 is where it is. Hope this helps.

Thank you!

The new Silverado's actually already have a cold air system on them. Check out this video.

Hey, Just created a video for this repair. Hope this helps you.

Just because the screen looks fine doesn't mean the trash didn't sink back down. Check out my video and see how to fix it for good.