asilverblazer

Fuel injector balance test above.

I posted fuel system and fuel injector diagnostics. They are from a subscription site. It is critical to use genuine OEM injectors and not counterfeit or aftermarket parts if you determine injectors need replaced.

Try a different dealer?

I run more tire than needed too. A 'tougher' tire has some value to me... road hazards, etc...

gmupfitter.com

BFG AT KO2 I've lost track of how many sets I've had and how many miles I've put on them. I think I'm over 5 sets now and over 300,000 miles... Oddly, I've never worn them out, I've sold my trucks wearing them while still with plenty of tread. They've always had plenty left at 60,ooo miles. No punctures, no blow outs, no odd wear, no excessive noise, no balance problems. Good traction in the dry, snow, dirt, sand, mud, gravel... I'm not sold on the KO3 yet, I know the tread blocks are closer together and against my own advice, I want to try the HD Terrain.

You need better research materials. It WILL NOT extend the life of the engine. Pros: ... ... ... ... ... Cons: Sound worse Cost money Check engine light Failed inspection Lower resale What parts in front of the exhaust system do you think are going to last longer? Do you think your small intestines care what kind of shape your @$$hole is in?

There is a scan tool function to test injectors... See this thread for injector balance test. Its a long read... You'll notice how sensitive the injectors are. I don't advocate changing parts unless you have a definitive diagnosis to do so, your opinion may vary.

Bonded leather I think is what it would technically be called. At gm the "bonded" part is silent. What can they get away with advertising as leather vs. what we expect when they sell us leather vs what is real leather anyways... Real leather, a tanned piece of hide that has been dyed and skived to a uniform thickness; is NOT what is in any truck. Leather remnants scraps and trimmings that are shredded to uniform consistency then glued back into a sheet with a pattern pressed into them is the leather they are using. The 'particle board' of the leather world. Particle board is still wood after all.

Above it says setting the gain to 0 effectively turns off the trailer brakes output. I would agree that setting the gain is similar to setting guidance for the system in determining a baseline output amount. It COULD be that simple, I'm inclined to believe it has more programming to it than that.

If you always use the same station, you could have gotten bad gas - and keep putting more of it in. I've personally NEVER seen or know of anyone that has actually gotten contaminated fuel and consider to be an unlikely cause. Most likely problem(s) based on conversations here are injectors and/or high pressure pump.

None of these lift styles increase or change the amount of "pre-load" on the springs. You can verify this by measuring the height of the spring with and without the lift installed, assuming you reuse the same spring. There are only two ways with these lifts to increase spring pre-load: One, you put so much "lift" into the system that the strut assembly and/or spacers pushes the upper control arm so far down that it is forced against the droop limit stop at all times. Two, a poorly engineered strut, where the strut piston is not long enough or able to extend out enough to make up for the higher spring perch location via the c-clips. These styles of lift work by moving the two strut mounting points further away from each other, via spacers at the top of the assembly or bottom, what you seem to refer to as 'outside strut' lifts. The 'inside strut' lifts are doing the exact same thing by moving the bottom spring perch up and down on the lower strut shaft. Regardless, your warning about upper control arms and ball joints is well merited.

Enjoy: 2018...

I don't know... but the truck probably has a sensor that expects an interial change based on the brake pedal application... uses your input on the controller as a 'suggestion' and modulates output to the trailer accordingly. ...goes to see if I can find more concrete information.

Inspect for the conditions listed below: Mass air flow (MAF) sensor signal skewed—If the Short Term Fuel Trim parameters for both banks changes greater than 20 % when the MAF sensor is disconnected, refer to DTC P0101. Contamination of the mass air flow sensor with oil or other foreign material. Fuel contamination—Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Diagnosis. Missing, restricted, or leaking exhaust components—Refer to Symptoms - Engine Exhaust. Malfunctioning fuel injectors—Refer to Fuel Injector Diagnosis. Collapsed or restricted air intake duct. Excessive fuel pressure — Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis. Dirty or restricted air filter. Objects blocking the throttle body. Improper operation of the evaporative emissions control system. Excessive fuel in the crankcase—Change the engine oil as necessary. If a condition is found, repair as necessary. If no condition is found, inspect the engine for a mechanical condition. Refer to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical. I'm curious what codes led you to replace the MAF? Some of the possible culprits could probably be ruled out if this is a long term problem. An aftermarket MAF sensor may not be acceptable quality. A thorough examination of the air intake track should be part of the diagnosis. Fuel injectors are also quite 'temperamental' and should be carefully considered/diagnosed, and replaced with OEM only. (Beware of counterfeit parts) You also noted fuel smell in the oil, I seem to recall a faulty high pressure fuel pump can leak fuel into the crankcase. Some of the work performed so far probably didn't need to be and I wouldn't focus on in diagnostics: replaced the plugs, wires, PCV Valve, cleaned the MAP/BARO Sensor. Other work might be making diagnosis more complex: MAF, Coolant temp sensor, seafoam in the gas tank. Note the tests for the MAF above, a simple check of you aftermarket sensor. I doubt the coolant temperature sensor is flawed - so long as you see reasonable temperatures on your scan tool. I would make sure you run the gas tank as low as possible and refill to eliminate the seafoam as a potential "fuel contamination".

Nothing in the diagnosis of that code indicates replacing an O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is telling you something else is wrong based on its readings. Don't shoot the messenger.

Conditions for Setting the DTC The correction limit for a condition causing a rich or lean air/fuel ratio has been exceeded. Diagnostic Aids The post catalyst fuel trim diagnostic is very sensitive to heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) design. A non-OE sensor or an incorrect part number may cause a DTC to set. Certain aftermarket air filters may cause a DTC to set. Certain aftermarket air induction systems or modifications to the air induction system may cause a DTC to set. Certain aftermarket exhaust system components may cause a DTC to set. Circuit/System Verification Ignition ON. Verify no other HO2S or fuel trim DTC is set. If any other HO2S or fuel trim DTC is set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle for further diagnosis. If no other HO2S or fuel trim DTC is set Verify DTC P2096, P2097, P2098, or P2099 is not set. If a DTC is set Refer to Circuit/System Testing. If no DTC is set Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC. You may also operate the vehicle within the conditions that you observed in the Freeze Frame/Failure Records data. Verify DTC P2096, P2097, P2098, or P2099 is not set. If a DTC is set Refer to Circuit/System Testing. If no DTC is set All OK. Circuit/System Testing Verify none of the conditions listed below exist: P2096 or P2098 Air intake duct collapsed or restricted. Air filter dirty or restricted. Contamination of the mass air flow sensor with oil or other foreign material Objects blocking the throttle body. Excessive fuel in the crankcase. Change engine oil as necessary. Rich fuel injectors. Refer to Fuel Injector Diagnosis. Excessive fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis. Fuel contamination. Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Diagnosis. Fuel saturation of the evaporative emissions (EVAP) canister. Stuck open or leaking EVAP purge valve. Restricted exhaust. Refer to Symptoms - Engine Exhaust. Improper operation of the crankcase ventilation system. P2097 or P2099 Exhaust system leaks. Refer to Symptoms - Engine Exhaust. Split, kinked or improperly connected vacuum hoses. Contamination of the mass air flow sensor with oil or other foreign material Insufficient fuel in the tank. Leaks in the air induction system and air intake ducts. Missing air filter element. Cracked evaporative canister. Evaporative pipes plugged, obstructed, or leaking. Crankcase ventilation system leaking. Engine vacuum leaks. Low fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis. Contaminated fuel. Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Diagnosis. Lean fuel injectors. Refer to Fuel Injector Diagnosis.

I think this will be the most likely answer to trailer brake performance. Until someone connects a multimeter to measure what output is going to the trailer brakes we'll never know for sure. GM likes functions to not be noticeable to the driver, like AFM, DFM, traction control, auto 4wd...

That sounds high for a replacement engine. The criteria you should refer to is the manufacturers written warranty that describes exactly what GM will help with; I don't understand, the vehicle is outside of the warranty period, prior to which, GM would "stand by". Why would anyone buy an extended warranty when YOU get one for free? If you wanted GM to stand by their product longer, then you should have bought an extended warranty, what entitles you to more? 20 engine failures out of how many thousands? GM is aware of what specifically? Awesome rant though.