asilverblazer

When it dies will it restart?

What are the codes?

I would try putting the factory intake tube (between MAF and throttle body) back on. Compare to service recommendations below when this code occurs on factory vehicles. The engine control module (ECM) detects that the actual measured air flow from the MAF, MAP, and throttle position sensors is not within range of the calculated air flow that is derived from the system of models for greater than 2 s. Verify the integrity of the entire air induction system by verifying that none of the conditions listed below exist: Any damaged components Improperly installed components Collapsed, restricted, or damaged components Loose clamps, cracks, or other damage An air flow restriction Restricted air filter Splits, kinks, leaks, or improper connections at the vacuum hoses Vacuum leaks at the intake manifold, MAP sensor, and throttle body Water intrusion Any snow or ice buildup, in cold climates Contamination of the multifunction intake air sensor element If you find no mechanical issues, I think a competent tuner should be able to resolve the problem.

Checking the cables for intermittent voltage issues is always a good idea. Check all the grounds, something could be loosing continuity, just so happens you were driving when it happened. Look at circuits and grounds for interior - instrument cluster, clock. There is likely another code related to steering sensor, it lost power/ground too and triggered the power steering issue and service stabilitrack.

Engine? Mileage? Mods? Codes? How do you confirm cylinder number and miss fire counts?

I struggle to see how those two codes are related. The shop needs to look at p0455, likely the work disturbed something. Not saying it is their responsibility or they screwed something up, age and mileage are probably the culprit cracked line... Try to resolve the other issue after.

What is happening is that the PCM is getting cleared of codes, signals for closed loop operation, runs through all its tests and reads all sensor data, sees an issue, triggering all the problems and back to open loop operation. Check the main wiring harness through the firewall. Are there new codes, or all the same ones (Particularly, are they still high voltage signal related)? If you have traced the circuits for each of the codes from the sensor to PCM. Next step would be more careful and thorough diagnosis of each code/circuit. You would need to probe pins on individual connections of wiring to look for anomalies (where the presumably 12v is being introduced to the signal voltage). Did you pull the under hood electrical center and look at the back side? You could try unplugging individual items like the brake switch or starter relay to see if it has failed internally and could be shorting out other circuits. I am still of the opinion that you need to be looking for a wiring issue where all these unrelated circuits come together in a location close to each other. The cruise switch, starter relay, evap valve, ignition coils, etc. are nowhere near nor related to each other. Some don't even enter the cabin, leaving the only common location as the PCM and under hood electrical center.

If I were to speculate further than the information you have. It probably isn't one bank, its probably a general miss fire (P0300) happening on all the cylinders. It starts up and runs fine - cold. Once the engine warms up and goes into closed loop the problem starts. Since there are no other codes indicating a sensor performance issue the PCM cannot properly adjust the fuel injector pulse width for whatever amount of air is entering the cylinders. This means either the incorrect air amount is entering or the incorrect amount of fuel is. The O2 readings will (should) indicate which component there is too much/little of. Inspect the air intake track including the MAF sensor. I mentioned fuel injectors earlier, but the likely hood of several of them being faulty at once is minimal. You say fuel pressure is good, so that would lead me to think it's an air intake problem. Plus the engine probably would have issues in open loop if the fuel system has a mechanical deficiency. You can also probably rule out any ignition problems, those would be present when cold. This all could lead back to O2 sensors - there is an internet rumor that you should only use AC/Delco sensors or will run into issues. Any modifications made to the truck?

Maybe-there just aren't that many factors that will cause a problem on one entire bank of cylinders and only that bank. You've already replaced the O2 sensors - were all 4 replaced? What condition indicated the need to replace them? It could be that the upstream sensor on the problematic bank is defective - no way to know without a trouble code or live data stream. Could be an injector leaking badly on that bank sending a bunch of raw gas into the exhaust messing up the O2 reading to the point it leans out all the others injectors.

alldatadiy is what I use.

In either case, a more thorough inspection inside. If it gets nice and hot on the recirculation setting, then cools off when switching back to allow outside air in - I would try to watch the door movements to confirm they are doing what they should. Seems like I remember something about the actuators needing the limits programmed too, but I don't recall the specifics...

It's where I would start with diagnosis. If the wiring isn't a problem it could be an internal failure in the PCM. You should find that all the circuits with the issue terminate there. This failure would be far less common than a corrosion issue. In fact, I would start inspecting the wiring and connections there first. Unplug the connectors and carefully inspect. Also, inspect the under hood electrical center on the drivers side fender.

How are you able to determine it is only one bank? All four cylinders on one bank? Clogged catalytic converter?

Codes? Engine?

No, it's not true. There are a bunch of grounds that close numerous circuits. P0328 includes abnormally high voltage from the knock sensor. P0573 references a high voltage signal in the circuit. Your codes indicate the various circuits in question, example being the knock sensor... gmupfitter has wiring diagrams. I would start at the actual sensor and follow the wire harness to where it terminates at the ECM, do the same for the other sensors/circuits. Eventually you'll find the fault, likely a common point where all the circuits having problems are near each other.

All the codes are issues related with the circuit or sensor performance (incorrect voltages). Start checking wiring for corrosion, chewed wires, etc. I'd start at the underhood electrical center. I suspect that battery voltage is hitting the circuits the sensors are on. Truck is in limp mode, that's why it is running so rich and shifting hard. It will quickly kill the catalytic converter if not fixed.

I think the best solution is to drive it once a week. Long enough to get up to operating temperature and burn off any condensation that builds up (prevent sludging the oil). This would prevent any build of "gunk" too.

Seems like the truck won't lock the drivers door if it thinks there is a key in it.

Let it sit as long as you normally do (overnight?) so that it gets to the point were it is hard to start and dies. Once it has bled down as far as it will go, cycle the key as many times as needed to get pressure back up to 50+PSI. (Or as high as you can get it.) Then try starting the engine while watching what the fuel pressure does.

I see what you're getting at... ...I thought you were indicating the engines were flooding.

I wonder why this is happening? Why the need to enter "clear flood mode"? Once the engine has fired and ran any amount of time the extra fuel from a flooded engine should have been cleared. I would think if it is so rich to cause these significant of miss fires it would kill the catalytic converter too.

This is why I'd like to see fuel pressure readings, the pump should eventually prime so that it can start without the continued dying.

I don't disagree with their diagnosis but I agree with your concerns too. All you can do is check the codes and inspect the plugs yourself to confirm.

What fluid did you use? Could have deteriorated the rubber flex lines or rubber seals in the master cylinder/booster.