asilverblazer

I would thoroughly check all grounds and cables, not just at the battery.

Mt memory recollection is there are no suspension differences... except Z71 swaps out the shock/strut for the Rancho branded one.

Top mount Rubber insulator Boot Jounce bumper Spring Lower plastic insulator Strut https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/v-2017-chevrolet-silverado-1500--lt--5-3l-v8-gas/suspension--shocks-and-struts

...come by one Saturday and we'll do it.

I think I'd consider buying another kit of 'pucks'... (or lynch pins or other similar to insert in the puck openings) and cut the top off them (the ball and chain loops), and weld them to my own frame. A 2" angle iron frame, some bolts welded on protruding in to imbed in the concrete to secure it to the frame. Plywood form boards with you imbedded eye hooks. Sounds pretty simple to build to me. And mud tires.

Fist your truck must have a gooseneck hitch installed. The hole in the bed where the ball inserts is what the hitch you linked uses for securing it in the bed. The center pin on the plate/rails you linked inserts into the gooseneck hole where the ball would normally insert. The locking pin that normally secures the ball goes through a hole on the center pin of the plate/rails. This prevents it from being lifted back out of the truck and keeps the entire assembly of rails from spinning. It is common for the gooseneck ball to rust/seize inside the bed. If you permanently attach a large heavy weight to the rails kit you linked and the center pin seizes or rusts in place... the "box filled with concrete" would make getting it back off the truck exceptionally hard.

I'm convinced a diesel electric hybrid is the best solution for a truck. Small diesel engine to power on board generator. Runs at a fixed RPM so its tuned for a specific condition, far more efficient, less emissions, less noise, less weight. On board battery pack (small) to power electric motors. Can be charged from the grid or via the on board generator. Short trips wouldn't need to run the diesel generator and are electric only. Long trips use the generator. Smaller size reduces weight. Re fuel times just like what we are accustomed to, and utilize the vast fueling infrastructure already in place. Long trips aren't disrupted by hours long recharge times. As long as the generator is fueled, there is electric power to keep traveling. Regenerative braking. Electric instant torque. Use the diesel generator for heat vs. the inefficient electric heat. Export power from the onboard generator to RV's, job-sites, tail gating, or as stand by for home emergencies. Engine malfunction, limp home on electric. Battery dead, run off the the generators electricity. Built in redundancy. This setup would perform as well as a traditional truck and operate more efficiently while doing it. The only downside is slightly more complexity (although all this technology has been being used for decades: internal combustion engine, generator, electric motor, battery...).

Maybe - I want to try the lower cost options first.

Am I reading this right that you are changing the oil in these once every decade (give or take)? I guess I feel better about my (bad) habits. Not being critical, just never heard someone go that long before.

Can those solenoids be flushed? I also wonder how bad would it be if you chose not to reset the the shift adapts... it would eventually adapt to the new hardware. Seems like I recall a battery disconnect resets them too (but that is a fleeting memory). I also wonder about salvaged TEHCM - if it is programmed to a comparable truck why wouldn't it work - are they VIN locked? In the end I think the thought about how big a deal programming these things are is being over-stated. It adds what to the rebuild cost? 300.00? But if one is really trying to avoid this...

This has been talked about in other topics, and I've mentioned that I might do this modification that I am contemplating. Without getting into the why's, how comes and what for's... I need to soften the ride of my 1 ton in the rear. I already know that sounds ridiculous, however, here is my plan. The truck currently has air bags in the rear, generally I don't need to use them. I do tow heavy trailers, hence why I am using the 1 ton truck in the first place. I plan to start taking leaves out of the spring pack to help the ride quality, I'd be willing to remove all of them except the main leaf that locates the axle. This lowers my load capacity that I would make up for by using the air bags to recover it. I have two concerns with this method, first, the single spring leaf without all its 'partners', would it be enough to keep the axle properly located? I think so, but if anyone has any thoughts I might be overlooking I'd like to here them. Second, I think the risk of axle wrap would be increased and I would have to add a set of traction bars. Also, not really a concern but I might have to add a small lift block to restore ride height, but that would aggravate concern 2. Another option is using the leaf spring pack out of a half ton truck, still using the air bags to make up load capacity. Thoughts? Opinions?

I think you already know your answer - torque converter. I'm suspect of your transmission guy though. A rebuild should not require a TCM reprogram. Tear it down, clean it, replace damaged hard parts, upgrade the torque converter and put it back in. I bet you could even replace the transmission and swap your current TCM to the new transmission with no programming needed.

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Try changing the fluid on the transfer case - not as a fix, but to inspect fluid condition. Looking for too much metal in the fluid and while you're there inspect the speed sensor.

If it were the torque converter it would behave the same forwards or backwards. The lack of a speed signal that coincides with being stuck in first is interesting to me, additionally how shifting to park resolves it. My initial thought remains that the speed signal issue is causing the lack of shift from first.

Have you confirmed battery voltage when it is acting dead?

What wear and tear? Certainly nothing more than putting a trailer behind it. Poor driving is what makes a danger to others - has absolutely nothing to do with the vehicle.

His use of alternate upper control arms has likely been the key to preserving a reasonable ride quality. This might also preserve the life span of the upper ball joints. Lower ball joints will have a decreased life span, by how much is debatable. Same goes for cv-shafts.

I don't think you will need to cut the top mounting bolts. You may need to cut the end off the two bottom mounting bolts, they may interfere with the cv-shaft. Cutting extra length off the bottom bolts is not un-safe. You will probably have the upper control arms pushed against their droop limit stops. The suspension will not be able to travel any further down. This will make the ride worse. Ball joint life span will be shorter. Alignment after installation is required for too much toe.

Everything else turn on? Does engine crank? Does the key/remote work otherwise? Battery cables condition?

I think the P1682 is the code you should focus on, my brief read of the information make me think one of the ignition relays is sticking.

Circuit/System Description There are 2 ignition voltage circuits supplied to the engine control module (ECM). One is supplied by the engine controls ignition relay, and the other is supplied by the ignition main relay. The ECM monitors and compares the ignition voltage supplied by the 2 relays. Circuit/System Description There are 2 ignition voltage circuits supplied to the engine control module (ECM). One is supplied by the engine controls ignition relay, and the other is supplied by the ignition main relay. The ECM monitors and compares the ignition voltage supplied by the 2 relays. P1682 The engine controls ignition relay is commanded ON. Ignition voltage is greater than 5.5 V. The DTC runs continuously when the above conditions are met. P1682 The ECM detects that the voltage level difference is greater than 3 V between the 2 ignition voltage circuits for greater than 1 s. Circuit/System Testing Note: You must perform the Circuit/System Verification before proceeding with Circuit/System Testing unless sent here from Engine Cranks But Does Not Run. Ignition OFF, disconnect the KR75 Engine Controls Ignition Relay. Verify a test lamp illuminates between ground and the B+ terminals listed below: Terminal 86 Terminal 30 If the test lamp does not illuminate Replace the front compartment fuse block. If the test lamp illuminates Note: High resistance in the circuit/underhood fuse block for either the KR75 Engine Controls Ignition Relay or the KR73 Ignition Main Relay can cause DTC P1682 to set. A short to voltage on any of the circuits supplied by the engine controls ignition relay can cause DTC P0690 to set. Ignition ON. Verify that a test lamp does not illuminate between the ignition voltage circuit terminal 87 and ground. If the test lamp illuminates Ignition OFF, disconnect the X1 harness connector at the K20 Engine Control Module. Ignition ON. Test for less than 1 V between ground and connector terminal 73. If 1 V or greater, repair the short to voltage in the circuit. If less than 1 V, replace the K20 Engine Control Module. If the test lamp does not illuminate Ignition OFF, connect a 20 A fused jumper wire between the B+ circuit terminal 30 and the ignition voltage circuit terminal 87. Ignition ON. Verify the scan tool Engine Controls Ignition Relay Feedback Signal parameter displays B+. If B+ is not displayed Ignition OFF, disconnect the X1 harness connector at the K20 Engine Control Module Test for less than 2 Ω in the relay switch ignition voltage circuit end to end. If 2 Ω or greater, repair the open/high resistance in the circuit. If less than 2 Ω Test for infinite resistance between the relay switch ignition voltage circuit and ground. If less than infinite resistance, repair the short to ground on the circuit. If infinite resistance, replace the K20 Engine Control Module. If B+ is displayed Ignition OFF, connect a DMM, set to the diode setting, between control circuit terminal 85 and ground. Verify the DMM displays OL. If OL is not displayed Disconnect the X1 harness connector at the K20 Engine Control Module. Test for infinite resistance between ground and the relay control circuit. If less than infinite resistance, repair the short to ground in the circuit. If infinite resistance, replace the K20 Engine Control Module. If OL is displayed Ignition ON. Verify the DMM displays less than 1 V. If 1 V or greater Ignition OFF, disconnect the X1 connector at the K20 Engine Control Module. Ignition ON. Test for less than 1 V on the relay control circuit. If 1 V or greater, repair the short to voltage on the circuit. If less than 1 V Test for less than 2 Ω in the control circuit end to end. If 2 Ω or greater, repair the open/high resistance in the circuit. if less than 2 Ω, replace the K20 Engine Control Module. If less than 1 V Test or replace the KR75 Engine Controls Ignition Relay. Component Testing Relay Test Ignition OFF, disconnect the KR75 Engine Controls Ignition Relay. Test for 70–110 Ω between terminals 85 and 86: If less than 70 Ω or greater than 110 Ω Replace the relay. If between 70–110 Ω Test for infinite resistance between the terminals listed below: 30 and 86 30 and 87 30 and 85 85 and 87 If less than infinite resistance Replace the relay. If infinite resistance Install a 20 A fused jumper wire between relay terminal 86 and 12 V. Install a jumper wire between relay terminal 85 and ground. Test for less than 2 Ω between terminals 30 and 87. If 2 Ω or greater Replace the relay. If less than 2 Ω All OK.

Houston, we have a problem. At least you know whats wrong now.

Sounds fueling related to me. Scan tool to watch fuel pressure?

Neither of those are torque converter problems. I'm inclined to think this is an electrical speed sensor signal issue (dead speedometer, the truck doesn't think its moving so no need to shift...), but going back to park then to drive wouldn't resolve that. Mechanical issue, probably rebuild time. Fluid condition? For fun, what happens if you turn on tow/haul mode when these conditions are present? What happens if you manually shift the truck to 2 when its stuck in 1?