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No Tyme

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Everything posted by No Tyme

  1. I ordered my plate bulbs from "Super Bright LEDs" and put blue bulbs in mine. I actually run blue in my Silverado, Trailblazer and Corvette. No issues in 2 years because the bulbs shine inward towards the plate and not out away from the vehicle. If you start using them in turn lights you may get a hyper flash... Is the 2015 bulb # different than what I posted?
  2. Center Cargo Lights - 921 (W16W), use that number when looking for LED's.
  3. Check out post # 128, and you may see the two black plastic post sticking up on each side. Thats where the front snaps down. The back slips into brackets.
  4. Yes, it has double sided tape, just be careful pulling of the Cadillac emblem.
  5. My lights from day one where fine, compared to the projector style headlights. My main issue was the yellow looking color of the stock bulbs but after I changed to the Phillips Crystal Vision I can honestly say that they did improve my headlights. The reflective signs are noticeable now from a greater distance and in my opinion the whiter light is brighter. I live in a rural area and have no problems spotting critters on the side of the road and believe the whiter light helps in that respect also.
  6. I think you have projectors bulbs, which are different.
  7. I recommend: Philips Crystal Vision Ultra Upgrade for halogen headlight if you want whiter headlights.http://www.amazon.com/Philips-CrystalVision-ultra-Upgrade-Headlight/dp/B00480FIEG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 For my fog lights I chose the following which are a great match. Super White 5202 5201 2405 H16 Halogen Bulbs for Fog Lights or Daytime Running Lights (35 Watts) by KY LIGHTING http://www.amazon.com/Super-Halogen-Lights-Daytime-Running/dp/B00Z4QL612?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00 They beat the Silverstar Ultras...
  8. I can only relate to my experience, and point to others in this forum that have tried to do this mod. I read and studied and decided to go with the mirrors and that switch, had a bit or trouble finding one, but was able to buy from a dealer online. I wasn't going to hook up the signals and puddle lights at the time I started this mod but as I got into it I decided to go all the way. Fishing the wires took time but very do able... tapping into the wires under the dash is a tight fit for this old guy, but I got er' done. Good luck, ask questions, that what this forum is all about. Helping others...
  9. I couldn't get up to the spot that schlegle1 used. I found a gray wire in the first of the five plugs just under the dash (five that are closest to the center of the cabin, then 3 more that I didn't touch), where the power for the puddle and signals are that he tapped into. The plug I used was the closest to the steering column and it had a gray wire, I found it with a tester... I actually had to run a ground wire from the battery because I could not get a good ground for the test light. Only place that did work was the door latch on the body.
  10. Well, again my stock 14 Crew LT had power adjust and heated mirrors only. I installed the DL8 power folding mirrors with turn signals, ran 2 wires for the power for the signal lights and puddle lights, grounded out an additional wire on the mirrors harness and installed the switch part # 23154702 and I have power folding, power adjustable heated signal mirrors now. I have a very early build of a 14 Crew Cab and with all the research FROM THIS FORUM AND A FEW THREADS THIS IS WHAT I DECIDED TO DO and it worked for me... Oh, yes I had to make the connections for the signal lights and puddle lights under the dash... That was pretty much the hardest part for me... not much room.
  11. There is another posting with the same results that you are having. Do you know the switch part #? I believe the correct part # is 23154702. Check out post 149 by schlegle1
  12. I would bet a dollar that is the reason. In my research the signal light has it's own ground wire. Remember to combine the CORRECT two back wires on the mirror harness... On my mirrors, I have 1 black/white wire and 2 black wires. They all seem to be the same size wire, but the 2 wires that you want to join to add a ground for the turn signals are the black/white wire in pin # 5 and the black wire in pin # 11. The black wire in pin # 8 is the mirror Heating Element Supply Voltage.
  13. No pics here: It is just a time consuming job. You need to wire to the mirror harness, run them down to the door jam, pull off the rubber boots and snake thru the boot. I read that by undoing the door stopper thing that the door will actually open wider... Too late for me, LOL. I use a short length of coat hanger to snake thru. I drilled a hole in the rubber grommet on the inner door shell and snaked the wires thru. I use 2 different colors of 18 gauge wires and in-cased them in a piece of shrink wrap tubing about 18" long to add some protection thru the door jam area. Used coat hanger to snake thru the rubber boot and thru the top of the body of truck there is room for the wires under the rubber shield to the cab body. The hardest part by far is the taps into the BMC plugs under the dash. Not much room under there for my old big hands. Also I combined 2 wires at the mirror harness for the signal ground... that way I only needed to run 2 wires instead of three.
  14. It did on my 14 Crew cab. I have read that it has worked for others. 13 and older are different. My 14 LT had power adjustable heated mirrors, and by adding the DL3 mirrors and switch, part # 23154702 the power fold function worked and the mirrors retained power adjust and heat. I just had to wire the signals and puddle lights. I ran 2 wires for the power, and I jumped the existing ground at the mirror for the signals. The signals it seems has their own ground so jumping the ground already at the mirror saved me from running a third wire.
  15. I don't have the slightest on the third harness. I just completed this mod today, but I chose to use my original harness that was in my LT. I ran 2 wires, one for turn and one for puddle lights and all are functioning. I did this upgrade on my 13 but the signals were plug and play: on the 14 everything was different.
  16. Sorry, I am no help to your particular issue. I have read that the wrong harness can cause inoperative or partial mirror functions, but for me to say for sure I am just not able to do so. I would search for info as there are several threads on the DL3 upgrade. I believe schlegle1 might have posted about this very issue. Check on post 142.
  17. I was told the same, "it is impossible" to add the HomeLink buttons when I bought my 2014 LT. I found a complete overhead console on eBay and it plugged right in. Sometimes their not the sharpest tool in the shed.
  18. I sure many will appreciate that info JR777... I have found an error in the posting by schlegle1, at least as it pertains to my truck. The right turn lead is located in the Black BMC plug, Green with Violet tracer wire at pin #3. His posting stated the brown BMC plug. Not sure if I will get back at it today because it's family time.
  19. I am going to share my procedure to upgrade my 2014 Silverado Crew LT from DL8 to DL3 mirrors. I am doing this to show my end results that I was able to achieve with the help of others and their write-ups. My 14 Crew had power adjustable heated mirrors and I did NOT have auto dimming or park assist. The last two items I did not research so if you need info on them it won’t be in this write up. I added power fold turn signal mirrors with puddle lights to my Crew, and this is how I accomplished it. There are UTube videos on how to remove your door panels so I won’t waste time on that procedure. Removing the rubber trim from around the top of the window is made easier with the window in the down position which allowed access the mirror bolts so I won’t discuss that either. Once your door panels, inner cab kick panels and mirrors are removed you will most likely have only 7 pins in the harness on the door that plugs into the mirror harness. If that is the case you will need to wire directly a power wire for the turn, power wire for the puddle light and add a ground for the turn signal light as it has its own ground, but I will show another option later on that point. I ran just the two needed power wires from the BMC area to my mirrors. First off I used door switch Part number #23154702 for the power fold mirror switch. There are discussions on another part #, and from what I read this is the one for the Trucks. I chose to add in to the mirrors a connection to unplug the mirrors later in case the mirror ever had to be replaced. The 2 new power wires that I had to run are needed for turn and puddle lights, and is located in pin 1 and 13 of the harness from the mirror. My wire colors were (pin #1) Orange/black for the puddle light and (pin #13) Blue/red for the turn signal. This is the same on both side mirrors left and right. I chose a point to cut the wires and solder in some connectors, using a female end for the puddle light and a male end for the turn. That way I did not confuse the wires when making the connection. I also staggered the connection to avoid a bulging area in the wiring. I used some shrink tube on the cut ends not used to prevent any issues with un-shielded wires. Here is a pic of my mirrors mounted at this point. Now the process is to run the wire from the cab to the connectors I put in place through the rubber housing where the other wires are located. I used a piece of a coat hanger after pulling the rubber boots loose and my wires came through on top of the connector on the body side of the truck, just fish it through with a coat hanger. This process is time consuming so take your time so not to damage any wires in the harness. I also had to provide a ground for the turn lights, this was stated in the write up that I followed by schlegle1. I did my ground like he did, combining the ground wire needed to the one ground already completed in the original mirror harness. On my mirrors, I have 1 black/white wire and 2 black wires. They all seem to be the same size wire, but the 2 wires that you want to join to add a ground for the turn signals are the black/white wire in pin # 5 and the black wire in pin # 11. The black wire in pin # 8 is the mirror Heating Element Supply Voltage. DO NOT USE PIN #8. I have installed my mirrors and confirmed that power adjustment, power fold, turn and puddle lights along with heat functions all work using this procedure. I am moving forward with identifying wires at the BMC and completing this mod today. This information has been acquired with the help from ngiovas, schlegle1 and special thanks to BeauTie for the link to the up fitters manual. That will help me confirm wire connections at the BMC.
  20. I want to add some additional information to clarify this grounding step. On my mirrors, I have 1 black/white wire and 2 black wires. They all seem to be the same size wire, but the 2 wires that you want to join to add a ground for the turn signals are the black/white wire in pin # 5 and the black wire in pin # 11. The black wire in pin # 8 is the mirror Heating Element Supply Voltage. This came be verifies in the GM up fitters manual found here: https://www.gmupfitt..._2015_en_US.pdf Thank you BeauTie for the link...
  21. RE: 7) Finally, now that EVERYTHING is wired up and ran where it should be you have one last thing you need to connect. The way i did this may not be what everyone chooses to do, but it worked best for me. The functions of these DL3 mirrors seem to have a ground for the mirror motor operation and a ground for lighting in the harness. The SOLID BLACK wire in the harness coming from the mirror NOT the truck is your main ground, the BLACK WIRE/WHITE TRACER is the ground for your lighting. Therefore what i did here is exposed a little bit of the two wires twisted them over one another and soldered them together/taped them back up. This is done at the harness coming from the mirror so if done correctly you will still be able to plug/unplug the mirrors just as you could before. Repeat this procedure for both drivers and passenger side. I want to add some additional information to part 7 above, to clarify this step. On my mirrors, I have 1 black/white wire and 2 black wires. They all seem to be the same size wire, but the 2 wires that you want to join to add a ground for the turn signals are the black/white wire in pin # 5 and the black wire in pin # 11. The black wire in pin # 8 is the mirror Heating Element Supply Voltage. This came be verifies in the GM up fitters manual found here: https://www.gmupfitt..._2015_en_US.pdf
  22. Yep, that's the one I need. Thanks very much for the link BeauTie.!!!
  23. The parts guy says that the information above does NOT give him the info needed to identify the pins... I must not have the correct manual because mine is only 259 pages... Its just the electrical manual. I faxed over the info provided to see if they can now identify the pins needed for this job. Thanks so much for the info... I will search for the correct manual tonight, but my electrical manual does have the breakdown of what the wire is for.
  24. Well not much action here in this thread. So I will post my findings... Installed my GM # 23154702 switch and hung a DL3 mirror on the truck. Power fold works. But I am getting the bug to wire thew turn and puddle lights while I am at it. My issue is I am unable to identify the correct pin to add the wires to my connector. I download the GM upfitter manual for electrical and printed pages for outside mirror ams and turn signals but no info on the correct pin # or tool needed... Anyone?
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