HoosierZ

Replaced the thermostat. Since late last fall the temp gauge hasn’t been getting above 180-190F. I recently bought an OB2 scanner and it was only reading 160F max. Now it gets up to 205-210F like it’s supposed to. Hopefully, my mileage improves some too.

I used this on my 2016 Silverado to hopefully hold off body rot after having the rockers rusting through on my 2008 at 8yrs and 90k miles. My 2016 is at that same age and mileage and so far all is good. Noxudol is a cavity wax that coats and creeps into the crevices and pinch welds. I sprayed it into the bottoms of the doors, rockers, tailgate, fenders, bedsides, and under the cab where there are braces spot welded to the floor. Every spring I pull out the fender liners and rocker panel plugs and flush everything out with water to hopefully get out the road salt hiding in the crevices.

Switched out my cheap plastic wheel center caps for the aluminum caps I machined.

Mine are set at the lowest setting at 2.5”. The Stage 1 kit consists of their shocks with multiple snap ring grooves like the Bilsteins to adjust the lift height. At their lowest setting with the stock springs, the ride height is stock. With the springs included in the Pro Truck Stage 1 lift, the lowest setting is 2.5” of lift and the 2nd groove is 3.2”. They don’t recommend using the 3rd or 4th groove. Rear blocks are easy to install. Do one side at a time to keep the axle from getting away from you and disconnect the shocks to allow the axle do drop away from the springs.

The front bumper had the plastic pieces removed and I made a custom skid plate to fill the center. I also replaced the flimsy plastic wanna-be skid plate/ splash shield with the aluminum GM skid plates. My front measures 39-1/2” to the fenderwell with my nearly worn out tires that measure 32”. The rear fenderwell measures 40-3/4”. The stock lift blocks measure 1-3/16”.

Thanks. I replaced the stock rear blocks with 2” blocks. It has 1-1/4” of rake measuring from the ground to the tops of the fenderwells.

I have the Eibach Pro Truck Stage 1 kit set at 2-1/2” of lift. The tires are 285/65/18 on 18x9 wheels with +12mm offset. The edge of the tread sits flush to the tops of the fenderwells. A 295 on a 0 offset would stick out another 17mm or roughly 3/4”. My next tires will probably be 295/70/18

I used Mobil 1 Delvac 75W90 in my diffs because it doesn’t contain limited slip additive. The additive isn’t recommended for the G80 locker. It took 4qts 12oz for both diffs.

I made it from a piece of plastic. There were a couple of L brackets on the back to attach it inside the pocket.

I installed a Reese unit that mounts behind the dash and has a small dial/ button and an LED that I mounted in the dash panel.

I added trailer brake controls to the same panel. The factory color has a very fine metallic flake in it. When I painted mine, I first sprayed it with satin black and then I sprayed a very light dusting of metallic black from about 2-3 ft away.

I have the Eibach Pro Truck Lift setup on my 2016 Z71. With their springs, I got 2.5” of lift in the front on the lowest setting. The second notch gives 3.2” of lift. They give a firmer but more controlled ride. The stock Ranchos were too soft and floaty to me.

Was a different dealership than the place I bought the truck. Didn’t notice the missing plugs until a few months later.

My truck was also missing 5 or 6 plugs in the rear wheel wells when I bought it new. I priced them at the dealer and they were $5 each. I bought a bag of 200 on Amazon for the price of 6 from the dealer. They are a 13/16” Caplugs brand.

My Hypertech Max Energy programmer has the ability to adjust the low tire pressure warning. I have load range E tires on my 2016 1/2 ton that require a higher pressure than the stock P rated tires did, so I raised the low tire warning.