ksenter

interesting

double post.

at this point I couldnt give an answer to that. I suppose its possible that one went before the other but not that I was able to determine. Thats why I'm hesitant to jump straight to ordering replacement speakers and calling it done. I'd love to order some replacements and that be the end of it but want to rule out the possibility there's a signal problem or something else going on first. Only way for me to know for certain is to pull the panel and see if I'm getting voltage/signal to the speaker itself and maybe use a known good speaker to determine otherwise. So is life

thankyou for your reply. I'm not in the least bit worried about the replacement how-to's and/or difficulty, but again (not being ignorant or arrogant) thankyou for the reply. My main concern is, is there an issue other than speaker replacement to be concerned with or is this most-likely just the speakers themselves? Very possible they went out at separate times, but getting neither left or right door speakers seemingly gone at the same time seems as though it could be input related. Any recommendations for non-powered (off the HU) good definition and solid bottom end replacements?

Noticed that I have lost my front door speakers. May or may not be a bigger deal than I'm making it. I'll have no trouble replacing them if they're a direct problem of themselves. I suppose my thread is to determine if this is a common issue or is it possibly related to anything else? Both the rear speakers and both the dash speakers are operable, but have lost both front door speakers. At first it seemed intermittent, but now they never work. I have a non-bose system with the mylink system. I havent made any recent changes prior to this occurence. Using the fade, I was able to confirm the rears work and the dash speakers work, but no doors. Sucks, what little bit of bottom end/bass the truck had is all but gone. Truck is a 2014 silverado LT Z71, non-bose. About a month ago I had the RCDLR and BCM replaced trying to get the TPMS/remote system back up and running, to no avail. I dont suspect this is in any manner related, but information provided none-the-less.

took truck to dealer this morning. Setup for power steering recall as well as try to get rcdlr working. Attempting to program new rcdlr receiver/antenna module to no avail it was decided to also replace the BCM. I made the judgement call to skip the diagnostics and replace the BCM. This also did not work. Will return to dealer at a later date to diag electical. Tech checked fuses and all is well there so somewhere along the wiring we have an issue. Not what I was hoping for. Will update in the future when a determination is made.

you are correct. I pulled the upper panel on the passenger rearmost pillar. I also removed the grab handle for safe measure. Simply pull down on the headliner and there it was. Replaced the unit, to no avail. I still do not have remote control availability. I'll look and see if there's an "at home" programming capability. If not, I'll have the dealer figure this mess out when I take it in for power steering recall. Thanks for your help

I apolgize. Was washing my truck today and realized the toggle I was referring to is not present. I was thinking of my wifes pathfinder. Again, my apologies.

remove interior panels and pull down on headliner? have any information on ways to access without damaging other components in the process? I'm decently mechanically inclined, just havent taken apart interior on this truck. I would imagine two rear sail panels need to be removed and then hopefully headliner will be free enough to access. I appreciate your response.

have you tried the little switch/toggle on the door jamb that wont allow the door to open from the inside?

I've spent some time on google and youtube looking for this answer, but apparently I'm the only one who experiences this issue. My remote control and tpms arent working so I've purchased a new rcdlr from Chevrolet, but I cant seem to determine where it's located. Someone mentioned previously it should be under the headliner? Okay, that sucks, but lets get after it...but where? Can someone point me to the correct location, a helpful how-to link or anything of the like?

RESOLUTION: Anti-Flicker Harness from XenonDepot fixed the issue. Plug and Play, no worries, no problems. RESOLUTION: Anti-Flicker Harness from XenonDepot fixed the issue. Plug and Play, no worries, no problems.

We are 188 pages deep at this point so I feel maybe it is best to just ask now. I just installed Lumen G8 LED conversions to both my low beams and fogs. Fogs work excellently, no problems at all. The low beams work great...after about 2 minutes. Initially they will power on and work, but then they shut down, flicker a time or two over the next 2 minutes, and then power up and work fine. I have read something about PWM or pulse width modulation to the DRL (daytime running lights) and the LEDS not getting a constant signal. These lights were supposed to be plug and play, no issues, yada yada. However, that is not the case. I'm sure there's a simple plug & play solution for a capacitor or anti-flicker device, but I would seek clarification on this if I may. I'd be interested to know which direction to head at this point. I would appreciate anyones help at this point, particularly if you've ran into this issue and how did you resolve it. Thankyou EDIT: 14 silverado z71