All Activity

Yah, I found a leak on the condenser, replaced that and the other replacement parts, re-charged, good to go. thank you.

For a limited time, Preferred Customers and online/catalog customers receive a free LED headlamp when they use code LAMP926 at checkout. The promotion runs through Sept. 8, 2026. What to save up to 25% off retail, sign up as a Preferred Customer. https://www.amsoil.com/offers/pc/?zo=521390

For a limited time, retail accounts receive a free fender cover (G2803) with their order of $750 or more when they use code FENDER926 at checkout. The promotion runs through Sept. 8, 2026. Own a business and want to apply for a retail account? Apply here. https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/sell-in-your-store/?zo=521390

Thanks for that, yes just because I could I measured what came out just to give me some guidance although I already knew to expect it to take at least 9.5 to just throwing in the whole 10 quarts off the shot and doing a one and done heat cycle to drop out the excess to get to the proper level. I don't recall exactly now what I measured that came out but was less than I put back in, I knew I spilled some on the garage floor but the main part was that I was thrilled in the discovery I did not have to touch my exhaust to flex it down. The gasket manipulating is a pain of course to create that clearance to take the pan out and put back in but its all very doable if one is careful and not forcing the gasket to flex too much. From the quote I got at a transmission shop of 900.00 here in Canada ( never asked at the dealer what they charge ) I saved 700.00 doing it myself after paying for the supplies so that to me paid very good wages !, and I knew what fluid was put in and that I had changed the filter and that the level is correct without any doubts.

I do have one of the AFM diasable box, using it for last 1.5 years.

I found a setup that lets me open the cover partway with racks installed, using side-rail-mounted systems for easy access.

Typically its said and I agree so far that the engine oil drain plug oring is not required to be changed out unless you see some damage happening to the oring as apparently the oring lasts well. The dealer I have been getting a few parts from never even stocked the oring but instead stocked the whole drain plug that comes with a new oring which for the dealer is easier because they just throw in a new drain plug if there was any question about damage on it as well and charge the customer accordingly but again only if it is needed. Also a hint about the drain plug oring to help it last vs a risk of causing damage to it, after its been removed and wiped off or washed off ( that is a whole other topic about some solvents damaging orings because some solvent types do ) to make sure to relube the oring with a bit of new oil so that it won't "grip" on the sealing surface of the pan and needlessly stress out the oring. Its no different than putting some oil on the sealing ring of the engine oil filter. So I just grabbed a new drain plug to have on hand although more recently bought just the oring as well but as its special it costs half the price of the drain plug ... ! Since you mentioned the hate to be empty handed theme, I am not sure what you have in the way of filter removal tools as I like using the exact sized for the filter steel 1" wide band with side to side swivel handle filter removal tool, and it can be used to snug up the filter without risk of damaging a filter as well ( its probably a lisle brand I have ). The drain plug hex size is 15mm and I always like using a 6 point socket if I have a choice and with this truck I've been using just a 3/8 ratchet that has a fairly long handle. Do you have a funnel that will work to pour oil in as that is definitely the short coming bastard part about the design with that fill port on the valve cover on such an angle that no normal funnel will even work. There are adapters and things on the market that will set into or screw into that fill port, I didn't want to deal with US shipping as that is all I was seeing at the time so caved and bought a Lisle brand multi vehicle fit adapter funnel kit and it really works well but there are much less expensive adapters out there that work in conjunction with an off the shelf funnel that would do the job also. Now that I have it, I like how it works and works so slick with the shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers I have now switched over to. Whatever you do, have a funnel system of some sort as you will be swearing if you dropped the oil and then realize you have nothing to properly pour new oil in without spilling it all over the engine !. Other comments, quite a bit of oil flows out down the filter when its cracked loose due to the housing above the filter so let it dribble down the filter until it slacks off flow and then remove the filter to create less possible mess. It seems these engines can sit for quite a while and drip and if you have time let it sit there and drip out of the engine as much as it wants. Also a good time to grease the 9 zerks on the front end, that's my typical practice anyway to grease the suspension and steering each time I change the oil. And remember to reset the oil change minder ( not something I am used to doing with older vehicles and equipment ).

I really did not measure what came out. I carefully followed directions to check level after i did the spill and fill and filter change. I used 10 quarts. 9 was not quite enough. My trans temp was about 175 when I checked it. Truck sitting in my driveway very close to level where I always check oil pretty much every time for consistency. My driveway is just ever so slightly downhill to run water to the street.

Sounds like maybe it's announcing Navigation turns or Alerts (it mutes the music) ? When it mutes again, turn up the volume quickly and see if maybe the navigation volume is really low?

If you were a classic car you would be a retro ride Thank goodness for modern medicine.

Kroger by me is still $5.06. It's as high as $5.90 (regular/87) at some other nearby stations but they're always high as balls...I'm not sure how they stay in business. Diesel? If you have to ask, you can't afford it...

Argh ... I prefer crush washer but a big big thank you JR !!!

There is no crush washer. The seal is part of the plug and is intended to be reusable. After six oil changes mine is still fine. Same plug part number is on my 2021. It looks like this:

I use Amsoil products, it's not overpriced trash IMO.

Hey , I need to know before my first oil change so I’m not caught empty-handed—does the drain plug on the 2025 6.6 gas use a crush washer or a rubber seal O-ring on the plug itself? thanks

3.49 Kroger’s in Montgomery Tx. Going down still not the cheapest in my area. With my discount I paid 3.39.

My next birthday will also be my 73rd! I consider this to be a young old age but realize that future plans are becoming more time sensitive. Next week we're visiting my Aunt who is within a few days of 30 years my senior. She remains sharp in mind and appreciates each day. There are no future earthly plans for her. I certainly don't expect to live another 30 years but the possibility still exists.

Partial correct answer but not the whole story.

Any decent scan tool will have cruise condition inhibit parameters displayed either in ECM or BCM data. This can help you isolate why its not working.

Your refrigerant is low. Your symptoms all highlight this. Whether you have an actual leak or have just lost the original charge over the years (about .2-.3 oz per year decay is a thing) remains to be seen. You can connect a gauge set to verify, but you'll really need to evacuate, recharge and monitor for a leak.

Lol, now I know this is a bot. Go away.

Ain't nobody got time for that. The code numbers are sufficient. Google, service info, Chiltons, will all easily elaborate on the definitions. Anyone thats been working on cars for a hot minute will know these very common, as well as global OBD standard, codes with not much else given. You have a wiring issue, as P0449 is a circuit fault. Focus on finding that, and the other two DTCs which are rationality based, will likely be resolved too.

Definitely worth flipping through the manual just for those oddball scenarios, even if you think you know your car inside and out.

they look to have significantly different tubes, so crawling under the truck and looking should tell you which you need.

Don’t be fooled. Boost Auto sells a lot of Made in China parts. They just toss their name on it to make people think it’s all Made in the USA