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I addition, I won't have a pan full of fluid sloshing around to get all over the place. I am putting on the Dorman pan with the drain plug. It looks like it is around the same height. I have one of these guys to make life a lot easier. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CDXJCCT?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1

Indeed a proper drain tap or drain valve with adapter that has a hose on it that opens up the valve as the adapter goes on is a slick setup and have that for certain highway tractors etc and other equipment that came from the factory with a tap but this L8T is pretty darned good other than me doing it on the floor and easy to touch hot exhaust and am not as agile as I used to be !. If I really want to pull a hot filter on an engine I will use an insulated set of thick neoprene gauntlet gloves but I am not in the hurry I used to need to be so things are done more relaxed and in theory somewhat safer ... I think LOL. And as I mentioned the unique shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers, while they might not work as well as an offset pour spout container for some awkward engine location applications, they are working a lot better with my Lisle funnel kit because of how they prop up on all four corners when upside down resting on the rim of the funnel where the typical quart container would never stay put without holding onto it.

Well, I just hit 100K a few weeks back, and I can honestly say I have not had any major issues with my '21 5.3 Crew cab. I have done most routine maintenance, oil changes, air filter, tire rotations, and a transmission drain and filter change (not even a full flush). A couple of months ago, I started experiencing the dreaded CLUNK when coming to a stop, sometimes hard enough to literally push the truck forward! After researching here and in other forums/youtube videos, etc, I was thinking it's the slip yoke. I finally had a chance to take it to my local mechanic today, and he was not able to recreate the issue. Amazing, since it does it nearly every time I drive. He also said he can't simply grease my slip yoke/driveshaft splines, because I have a 1 piece driveshaft. I am not sure what else I can do. Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea what else it could be?

This is where the Fumoto drain valve comes in handy. No mess and able to change oil hot, like right off the interstate hot. Flows nice and you can direct it into a container. As for the oil filter, I use an old dixie cup or plastic one from McDonalds. It contains the oil as you pull the filter down and not all over your hand.

Well, if it did change from lifters to rocker arms, at least it would be easier to fix as they fail.

Doesn't hurt to try. It's my understanding that you have to run it at least 4 or 5 oil changes for things to get clean. Think about it, your engine didn't get dirty in just an oil change so over time it will slowly clean. It's the safest way to do it and not have seal issues. I remember a product that came out a long time ago, AutoRX, it was an additive you put in the oil and then drove for 3k miles. Some saw improvements and some didn't. It was suggested to use a non synthetic with it at the time. Same observation, use a couple oil changes and give it time to work. It also stated it worked best if you could drive on trips to keep the oil hot. I'm sure if you ask AI it could tell you all about it.

The part # is 84520447, mine does not have the cooled seats but I'm willing to possibly change the cover and foam if needed. I tried that site and a few others, added to cart and then paid. About an hout later I received a refund stating it has been discontinued.

Thought I would add to what Bruce answered, not only do the HD models use the torsion bar system, there are I believe 5 different torsion bar spring ratings that are all physically interchangeable with all the HD trucks going from a two wheel drive 2500 all the way up to the duramax or a gas engine truck with a snow plow prep package front end weight capacity that use the maximum sized torsion bar. It starts from a 4400 lb rated set in 400 lb increments up to 6000 lb. If one wants to fine tune the ride for a certain truck application they can swap out the torsion bars.

First off pay close attention to what Newdude pasted as he is a GM tech !. I have a couple of questions which might cross off some questions others on this forum would be wondering about as well. So when was the engine oil changed prior to this trip, was it almost brand new oil or did it already have a fair bit of use on it before you started the trip. Did you check the oil level on flat ground and was it at the full mark just before leaving on this trip which I gather from google map is about 700 miles or so. Why I ask and this is not the first time in history that has happened, that either a dealer or some other shop changed the oil on the vehicle and the vehicle left the shop and the owner ( you ) assumed the engine oil was full but in reality the person who changed the oil simply did not put enough oil into the engine .. it happens !. Also that a shop put the wrong viscosity oil in and an engine was not happy with that thinner viscosity and oil got past the rings at a higher rate than the proper viscosity. Not to mention if there was any leaking out of a drain plug or the filter gasket etc.

You could, although in the end it really doesn't make much difference what comes out in exact terms since it comes down to putting enough back in so that there is enough volume so that something flows back out once the trans is up to temp for the check procedure. I presume your putting a pan on that has a drain plug but its probably the same pan mold/size as at least a while back no extra volume pan was made for the gas truck version due to the exhaust cross over pipe issue. All I can say as per volume I put back in and this was based on changing out the filter as some is trapped in it that does not come out until its removed because of the way its made inside and my truck had sat over night with the trans having been hot when shut down and dripping internally before I pulled the pan. I went off of what the trans shop suggested as a minimum volume he found worked which was 9 1/2 quarts and I had enough flow out of the stand pipe that I knew I was right on the money once it slowed to a dribble and never wasted hardly any oil but it would be totally fine to throw in a full 10 quarts too. I guess personally I wouldn't ruin a perfectly good pan by drilling a hole in it, not with the cost of replacement pans up here or the dorman one anyway with the drain was 500.00 when I priced one out a while back, totally stupid. I might not have said before but this trans oil type really expands with heat and I think its been said on this forum and the trans shop said the same so I wanted to try and hit the lower temp of the range vs at the top or go shooting above it as that would allow more oil to flow out which wouldn't be ideal.

Since I am going to be replacing the pan, I am just going to drill a hole in the original to drain it so I will be able to catch the fluid easier and measure how much I took out.

I checked...Amazon is better.

For the front...yes.

I looked at topics and didn't see anything regarding this. Lately my cameras have started activating on the DIC while driving. The front park assist activates as well. Anyone else have this problem?

Valvoline says 4 oil changes are ideal to see the most change. I can agree with them on this and my 2009 Vibe 2.4 I have. By the end of the 3rd oil fill of R&P it went down to 1 quart of oil in 3000mi. It started out at a quart in 400mi when I bought it. Currently it has used a 1/4 of a quart in 2000mi, so on oil fill 5 if I recall correctly.

I didn't realize it but do the HD models still use a torsion bar suspension?

Always satsified when the answer includes facts The physics and chemistry make sense. In the context of "high mileage" oils I think about old engines. An iron 4.3, for example. There are no oil jets cooling the back of the pistons, and VVT, what? LOL. The reality is plenty of modern engines are also "eligible" for high mileage oils. You may have noticed this too as time goes on, but 25 years ago can feel like 5 years ago sometimes. I wondered if I should put R&P in that old 4.3 of mine. No idea what it's used in the past couple of years but best I can tell, bulk oil from lube shops, based on the last documented services. It's not what I'd call a clean engine. What's the usual cleanup time for R&P? I'm guessing it depends on how bad the deposits are, but are we talking one oil change, two, three?

So after about 40k miles I'm down to 8/32" and getting noisier every day. What I've learned: 1. Keep your tires at 50/45 unless you're towing or hauling for best fuel economy and even tire wear. (mpg is 19@77 and 21 @ 75) 2. 0-60 goes from ~5.5 to ~7.0 3. Airing down on the beach is optional but still results in a much easier time. 4. Ride is still great up to about 70...then (as my son states) feels like riding on cobblestone streets. 5. Offroad traction...great. On-road in the wet...not so much. Now off to selecting another tire...maybe pirelli scorpion xtm at?

Exactly what it is. Remove the drive shaft, clean it with brake cleaner and put new grease back in it the yoke. Mine would make the noise shifting and even driving over bumps. https://youtu.be/L5-Dt2RdmbU?is=iYsoJ-0nWdrGgn2-

Survey says yes based on the first engine to be released for the Gen 6 engines, the LS6 in the 2027 Corvette. LS6 has DFM. Lifter QC and construction has been improved (better/larger locking pin). Bottom end has dual oiling circuits instead of one like on the gen Vs. The internet (i.e. Facebook) sleuths saw that patent for a rocker arm cylinder deactivation on a pushrod engine and is running wild that all of the Gen 6s will have this when so far...none do. Service manual, parts catalog, etc. on the LS6, its got 16 active lifters and has DFM.

I toggled my updates off a couple of years back. Since I don't have any CEL activity and the truck runs fine I'm happy to refrain from rolling the dice. I figure they've got it as good as it's gonna get. Recalls are another matter and I will strongly consider those if I get a notice in the mail.

We'll know soon. But at the end of the day they'll likely not take owner aggravation and costs into consideration. Probably the most important factor to them will be bottom line, along with units sold. Did they make money off sales of AFM/DFM-equipped vehicles? If yes, and the margin was large enough in spite of warranty and recall costs, I don't know that they will consider much else. Aside from government involvement of course, as in EPA and other regulatory bodies.

HM oils and cleaning. Well, soft deposits yes, perhaps. Like you say esters are present in in theory that should be a plus. But, is there enough? The marker is the "Aniline Point" and it has to be pretty low to solve out baked on deposits. The softer sludge, yea, they do that and that is the claim. Valvoline R&P is the only HM oil I know of (Jury is out on Mobil 1's product) whose chemistry is uniquely able to remove the hard stuff and not be so aggressive as to swell seals to uselessness. Oxidation levels in virgin oils blends is a good indicator of ester level and higher is generally a lower Aniline number and at one time we could predict without the $400 aniline test it's effectiveness. AN's, alkylated naphthalene doesn't show up in the oxidation test but does show in the aniline test and has become sort of a cheaper go to but most oils only add enough to solve the additive package. Not nearly enough to clean the harder carbon materials. To your second question about does it matter. Yes is the short answer. Deposits are insulative. Those under the piston crown for example add octane requirement for knock free running. We don't' normally notice in todays motors due to Knock sensor driven ignition R-e-t-a-r-d. At least until the full slate of available values is consumed. Newer motors also often use oil jets to cool the piston to achieve tunes that would otherwise not be possible. Deposits on either side subtract from that. Deposits in fine screens used in VVT/VVL or DFM/AFM services live and die on cleanliness and screens are front and center. Vacuum pumps as well like brake booster in the K2's. 90% of todays oils are Group II+/III blends. A few more at PAO/AN/Group II's. A few boutique oils not Walmart shelf materials have enough solvency to prevent but not remove the hard stuff. R & P the current exception. Even HPL's EC30/40 used as directed (20% max) will get the soft stuff and some varnish out but not the hard stuff. That orange varnish isn't baked on oil. Those are fuel varnishes left when the fuel diluted in the oil drops out when the oil cools. Like sugar does in a saturated mix of sugar and water that is put into the frig. That is ring sticking material and a glue the binds hard carbon sometimes. Name brand shelf oils are intended to provide a useful service life at the least cost and highest benefit to the OEM who is trying very hard to keep you in $500 a month payment programs where the real money is made. Did I miss anything you asked or left unsatisfied?

Yes, I understand. And I was saying (poorly), that it popped up on the DIC when I didn't have that info screen up. Just like you, but for a different maintenance issue. And just like yours mine didn't need to be shown at that time.