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How about I just point to the factory pans stand pipe little drain plug and claim its a pan with a real drain plug !. I just couldn't swallow the fact that a Dorman pan which at this point is probably the only pan out there that fits the gas version truck cost that much up here in Canada so I decided initially anyway to skip it and see what I thought of pulling the pan method and down the road if I felt inclined enough then I would either install a drain plug kit in the factory pan if there is enough room for it, or have a bung welded onto it, or put an aftermarket pan on. The thing is if the pan is not pulled then the magnets in the pan can't be inspected and cleaned or if wanting to change out the filter. However of course it certainly would make the job easier to be able to drop the oil first before having to handle the pan if dropping the pan that go around was the goal. I knew a guy locally that was doing custom field spraying years ago with a pickup pulling a ground driven sprayer, I believe it was a GM pickup with an automatic trans. He had a drain plug in his pan and would drop the oil out of it once a week and top it back up through the dipstick tube to keep refreshing a portion of the oil often and that made the transmission last far longer than had he done nothing. Soft fields pulling 500 gallons of water at the start of each mixed up sprayer tank batch and in low range sucking along. I imagine he got some tips from other custom sprayer outfits doing the same thing at the time and learning from their blown up tranny mistakes. Transmissions then had no lock up converter so would cook the crap out of the fluid slipping that much and it would not have been synthetic fluid either.

3.39 Kroger’s in Montgomery Texas.

I apologize if I missed this but hopefully, you replaced the pan with one with a drain.

I’d like to add, I have no shifting problems, no vibrations or any temperature issues. Just a noise I cannot locate.

They discontinued the tensioner pulley but there is still an idler pulley which I replaced.

How long you running each OCI in the Vibe?

Idler Pulley… from what I understand GM and Chevy trucks no longer have an idler pulley.. they stretch belts for both belts… I had mine replaced by my local mechanic last year on my Chevy Silverado 5.3 z71 LT. They have discontinued using them on 2019 through 2026 as of a Google search.

Good morning! I have a whirring sound coming from the engine or transmission area when driving w/o towing when I accelerate at 1100 rpm’s. That’s how it started. Yesterday it was more obvious while towing a U-Haul even when not accelerating at 70 mph. I could see where it may have been possibly shifting gears due to a slight grade and the intermittent rpm changes as the transmission was possibly lowering the gear down. It was making the sound multiple times but it is not constant. I replaced the serpentine belt and idler pulley but no change. It only does it when I’m driving. No noise accelerating while in park. Just started @ 53,000 miles. It’s not always there though. Unfortunately, I feel it may be transmission related. Any thoughts or knowledge about the 2022 tranny that anyone can share. I have 2500 miles left on my p-train warranty. Thanks to all for any help!

RAIN. It's dumping buckets. We needed it. What a welcome change...sitting here listening to it pour with my office window open. Ok, not too much. It's not even September yet, we're not finished with summer yet....

If you have actually done it, there must be some secret tool or method of accessing the hidden bolt head that both manifold connections have. Two of the three bolt heads are staring at you in the face from below but the third one is covered by shielding and as far as I know only accessed by removing part of the fender well lining to gain access to it and even then its awful to access or from what I had seen of someone fighting with it on a video. There is a reason why even mechanics that deal with the awkward or risky business of undoing the exhaust at the manifolds have done the same method others are doing with these L8T by flexing the exhaust if need be or just able to slip the pan out as I did without needing to touch hardware or pry on the exhaust. By rights the two seals should be replace when those joints are cracked loose as well.

Actually it was a lot more controlled then I thought it might be and that isn't actually when I spilled some oil. I had thought prior of rounding up a couple of longer bolts with the same thread to swap out for a couple of the front edge pan bolts and then leaving one bolt left in the back but loosened off and then using a suction device to remove most of the fluid, that certainly would have worked and while I do have a couple of different devices I could have used to suck the fluid, now having done the job once I wouldn't even bother. I had thought of buying one of those pressurized vessels to suck or new fluid in and would if I was doing a job like this on a few vehicles but with one vehicle I just didn't bother and I have pail pumps as well I could have used assuming the hose end would fit into that less than roomy space but being such a thin fluid it pumped well with a quart type pump and just kept the hose into the trans and kept swapping containers and repeat. What I would change to the method I did though was first jack up just the rear of the truck to put on jack stands to allow more oil to come out of the check plug on the front of the pan ( and as I did, I made sure to put that drain plug back in finger tight ) then follow through by putting the front on jack stands. Also that I would have used a larger sized drain pan in the sense of covering an area wider/longer beyond the transmission but I didn't have one and saw someone else on a youtube video using a masonry mud mixing tub and bought one at a hardware store to use in the future. The main oopsy I did and why I spilled some oil was all my fault as I neglected to follow my own plan, I should have let down the pan as I did to drain out the front of it as much as would come out but then scooped out the remainder of the oil with the Dixie cup I had sitting there just for that purpose as by that point there is enough room to reach right into the front of the pan and just bail it out basically.

Pretty easy to just remove/drop the exhaust behind the manifolds. They're in no way hard to get to. Maybe 5min of work, and you get the opportunity to put some anti-sieze on them in case anything ever comes up, you eliminated the risk of snapping a stud.

I let the dealer do every other oil change simply so they can rotate the tires, which is a pita at home.

I addition, I won't have a pan full of fluid sloshing around to get all over the place. I am putting on the Dorman pan with the drain plug. It looks like it is around the same height. I have one of these guys to make life a lot easier. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CDXJCCT?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1

Indeed a proper drain tap or drain valve with adapter that has a hose on it that opens up the valve as the adapter goes on is a slick setup and have that for certain highway tractors etc and other equipment that came from the factory with a tap but this L8T is pretty darned good other than me doing it on the floor and easy to touch hot exhaust and am not as agile as I used to be !. If I really want to pull a hot filter on an engine I will use an insulated set of thick neoprene gauntlet gloves but I am not in the hurry I used to need to be so things are done more relaxed and in theory somewhat safer ... I think LOL. And as I mentioned the unique shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers, while they might not work as well as an offset pour spout container for some awkward engine location applications, they are working a lot better with my Lisle funnel kit because of how they prop up on all four corners when upside down resting on the rim of the funnel where the typical quart container would never stay put without holding onto it.

Well, I just hit 100K a few weeks back, and I can honestly say I have not had any major issues with my '21 5.3 Crew cab. I have done most routine maintenance, oil changes, air filter, tire rotations, and a transmission drain and filter change (not even a full flush). A couple of months ago, I started experiencing the dreaded CLUNK when coming to a stop, sometimes hard enough to literally push the truck forward! After researching here and in other forums/youtube videos, etc, I was thinking it's the slip yoke. I finally had a chance to take it to my local mechanic today, and he was not able to recreate the issue. Amazing, since it does it nearly every time I drive. He also said he can't simply grease my slip yoke/driveshaft splines, because I have a 1 piece driveshaft. I am not sure what else I can do. Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea what else it could be?

This is where the Fumoto drain valve comes in handy. No mess and able to change oil hot, like right off the interstate hot. Flows nice and you can direct it into a container. As for the oil filter, I use an old dixie cup or plastic one from McDonalds. It contains the oil as you pull the filter down and not all over your hand.

Well, if it did change from lifters to rocker arms, at least it would be easier to fix as they fail.

Doesn't hurt to try. It's my understanding that you have to run it at least 4 or 5 oil changes for things to get clean. Think about it, your engine didn't get dirty in just an oil change so over time it will slowly clean. It's the safest way to do it and not have seal issues. I remember a product that came out a long time ago, AutoRX, it was an additive you put in the oil and then drove for 3k miles. Some saw improvements and some didn't. It was suggested to use a non synthetic with it at the time. Same observation, use a couple oil changes and give it time to work. It also stated it worked best if you could drive on trips to keep the oil hot. I'm sure if you ask AI it could tell you all about it.

The part # is 84520447, mine does not have the cooled seats but I'm willing to possibly change the cover and foam if needed. I tried that site and a few others, added to cart and then paid. About an hout later I received a refund stating it has been discontinued.

Thought I would add to what Bruce answered, not only do the HD models use the torsion bar system, there are I believe 5 different torsion bar spring ratings that are all physically interchangeable with all the HD trucks going from a two wheel drive 2500 all the way up to the duramax or a gas engine truck with a snow plow prep package front end weight capacity that use the maximum sized torsion bar. It starts from a 4400 lb rated set in 400 lb increments up to 6000 lb. If one wants to fine tune the ride for a certain truck application they can swap out the torsion bars.

First off pay close attention to what Newdude pasted as he is a GM tech !. I have a couple of questions which might cross off some questions others on this forum would be wondering about as well. So when was the engine oil changed prior to this trip, was it almost brand new oil or did it already have a fair bit of use on it before you started the trip. Did you check the oil level on flat ground and was it at the full mark just before leaving on this trip which I gather from google map is about 700 miles or so. Why I ask and this is not the first time in history that has happened, that either a dealer or some other shop changed the oil on the vehicle and the vehicle left the shop and the owner ( you ) assumed the engine oil was full but in reality the person who changed the oil simply did not put enough oil into the engine .. it happens !. Also that a shop put the wrong viscosity oil in and an engine was not happy with that thinner viscosity and oil got past the rings at a higher rate than the proper viscosity. Not to mention if there was any leaking out of a drain plug or the filter gasket etc.

You could, although in the end it really doesn't make much difference what comes out in exact terms since it comes down to putting enough back in so that there is enough volume so that something flows back out once the trans is up to temp for the check procedure. I presume your putting a pan on that has a drain plug but its probably the same pan mold/size as at least a while back no extra volume pan was made for the gas truck version due to the exhaust cross over pipe issue. All I can say as per volume I put back in and this was based on changing out the filter as some is trapped in it that does not come out until its removed because of the way its made inside and my truck had sat over night with the trans having been hot when shut down and dripping internally before I pulled the pan. I went off of what the trans shop suggested as a minimum volume he found worked which was 9 1/2 quarts and I had enough flow out of the stand pipe that I knew I was right on the money once it slowed to a dribble and never wasted hardly any oil but it would be totally fine to throw in a full 10 quarts too. I guess personally I wouldn't ruin a perfectly good pan by drilling a hole in it, not with the cost of replacement pans up here or the dorman one anyway with the drain was 500.00 when I priced one out a while back, totally stupid. I might not have said before but this trans oil type really expands with heat and I think its been said on this forum and the trans shop said the same so I wanted to try and hit the lower temp of the range vs at the top or go shooting above it as that would allow more oil to flow out which wouldn't be ideal.

Since I am going to be replacing the pan, I am just going to drill a hole in the original to drain it so I will be able to catch the fluid easier and measure how much I took out.

I checked...Amazon is better.