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2024 2500 gasser with 47,000 miles. Driving on interstate Friday when my truck shudders, downshifts, and I get the above message with check engine light. Transmission would not upshift. I had to drive home 2 hours at 65 mph at 3600 RPM with transmission temps 190-200 degrees. Got it to the dealer Monday. They ran the code and said the #1 valve body was malfunctioning in the transmission. Miraculously, they had the part in stock and I had a new valve body installed that day with new transmission fluid/filter. Thankfully, all under warranty. Shout out to Everett Chevrolet in Hickory, NC.

Long story short I ended up with a set of Ironman tires because of a wheel size change on our Yukon Denali - I intended for them to be temporary (no more than 12 months) until I put the tires I wanted to on it, a premium A/T. However, they've been great, quiet, no traction issues, wearing even and very cheap here. They could use a better balance job from a slight vibration at 85 or higher. But so far, I've completely abandoned my original intention to not keep them. I won't go so far as to say I'd immediately buy them again for a permanent long-term solution but if my experience continues like it has with them, I could come to that conclusion. I was also told they are made by Cooper, don't know for sure though. For your purposes on the little truck you're working with, I'd highly recommend them.

I think the key point to longevity that may be being missed is the way the vehicle is being used. Long operating times with limited cold starts is one. Sustained speeds is another. Vehicles get better fuel mileage on highways for that reason.

New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same. I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out. At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated. And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure. Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting. All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared. An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources. So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.

After nearly 3 years of waiting I finally got rid of the chrome wheels. They were just too much. Next are the factory running boards. Very functional and sturdy but too bulky and they stick way out. Just my opinion anyway.

Which one, the AT or AS? Starfire is made by Cooper/Goodyear but at $85/tire I'd think I'd need to level-set my expectations that they may not even be round But you're saying they're decent? I'm already into this thing $1506 in parts, fluids, etc. Totaled all my receipts today. $250 of that was replacing an EGR and MAP sensor that were probably fine, but I'm not going to return the parts since they've been installed. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I use it, I keep it! I may or may not make money if I sell the truck at this point, but, that wasn't really the point. And if I billed my time, I'd be hosed for real. My thought on the tires is I "might" put 1,000 miles on before selling it. I just don't want to put absolute junk on it, that doesn't do anyone any good. If the Solus solidly isn't junk, I'll definitely consider them.

I have these on two vehicles and love them. Pepper is one of them

This 2 wheel RWD right? I had an 88 4wd S10 Blazer. Stock lift. After moving out of areas where 4WD was necessary, the next tire set was a passenger car type tire. Wasn't going to drive it much didn't want to put a large amount in tires. But it did look a little goofy with that highway tread design I had really good luck with Hankook tires. 1 set for 1/2 Chevy PU. 1 set for Toyota Sienna and 1 for Lincoln town car. They all performed well. Pleased with the performance especially on the Sienna. The Kinergy replaced the model I had on all 3. Cooper makes a good tire, I like the look of the tread since it does look a more "off road" ready. I'd probably pick the Cooper for the looks Any rebates on anything? Used to be Discount Tire was the place to buy at any Holiday. They had specials/rebates etc... on sets. Haven't seen anything like that done in a good while. Just a manufacturer rebate occasionally. Cooper tires are made in USA. Either Arkansas or Mississippi, iirc

Doing the right thing, replacing both valves is the way to go. The valves with the ball leak far more often than the schrader. Never cared for them. The accumulator really should be replaced if the system has had no pressure in it and it was a keeper, but since you're looking to sell it, bet you can get by. Did you pull the orifice screen and see what was there? Shame you can't get 134a. Hopefully the previous repairs included dye. Some of the R4s I messed with developed leaks where the line sets connected or the front seal. Had one where the HPCO was leaking. Front seal would only leak under pressure. See any obvious oily spots? I've got nitrogen I use to test pressure and to help dry the system prior to evacuation. Keep up the good work

Next time you're on a road trip to a state where you can still buy it stock up on 12oz cans, you might look into getting certified so you can buy it where you are as well. When they switched from R12 to R134a the test for certification was easy, they basically just wanted the $25

My truck is probably one of the most babied and best maintained out of all the individual trucks discussed here. Premium fluids used, very short fluid change intervals, indoor storage, waxed regularly, low amount of towing with easy loads, minimal off-road use, and most driving done empty or with an 1800 lbs (40% of payload rating) popup Four Wheel Camper in the bed. It’s driven to full warmup every week during non-use periods. All maintenance was performed by a roughly 60 year old mechanical engineer specializing in aircraft propulsion systems that has all the correct tools. You will not find a single maintenance record on Carfax for my truck other than the first oil change done at 300 miles due to my discovery of a dented filter from the factory or shipping. I have full personal records with receipts for fluids and filters. Anyone would be lucky to buy my truck used. Someone refusing to look at my truck due to lack of Carfax records would be missing out on a great truck. I’m not selling, though. My son will get it whenever I am done with it.

Carfax is at best a joke and more appropriately called a scam. I've seen clean car fax cars that were wrecked and commanded a premium price because of the clean car fax, do a little digging and you find that it was likely repaired (botched) in someone's backyard and worth 1/2 what was paid. Flip side, we had a new Explorer Sport Trac way back in 2003, someone hit and messed up the rear door and running board. Not a bad crash - a fender bender in all rights except it was't the fender it was the door. I made sure that it was professionally repaired, with genuine Ford parts, no Bondo, perfect paint match etc. No one would have ever know it was hit - except for car fax. Instant 1500.00 to 2000.00 hit at time to get rid of it. A 'regular' appearance at the dealer oil change line means what exactly? What oil was put in it, how was it driven, environment, other maintenance, etc... Meanwhile, Grumpys truck, the worlds best maintained, (probably) comes with extensive documentation that never makes it past the next buyer. Absolutely nothing on Carfax... suddenly it's the worst maintained. Carfax is a cheap way for Big Data to sell a product to make lazy consumers feel better about their used car purchase. 'Buy Back Guarantee', good luck. Carfax = the automotive version of Experian, Transunion and Equifax - junk big data, that no one is responsible for and only useful for extracting money out of the weakest player in the game, the lone consumer.

every truck needs a companion

I would like to see them bring back the E-85 option.

This is my 2nd Trail Boss with a leaking slider, both of them I bought new. The first one I fixed myself by replacing the slider with a solid window (details are somewhere in the massive leak thread). The second one I wanted to keep the slider and permanently seal before it ever leaked. I've had the truck over a year and finally got around to it. Since I was dropping the headliner I also added the camera rearview mirror and hard-wired my radar detector. I dropped the headliner and removed the spoiler. I cleaned the top of the window channel with all purpose cleaner and a detail brush and dried it. I taped the top of the glass and back of the cab with some little tape ball dams at the ends. I warmed the area up with a heat gun so it would flow then I applied self-leveling sealer SEM 39387 then I hit it with the gun a little more to draw out air bubbles. After that cured, I put 3m strip caulk on all of the spoiler bolts and nuts and re-installed the spoiler. The self-leveling sealer had the exact effect I wanted, it bridged from the glass to the body and covered up the plastic slider frame that cracks and leaks. There were no cracks in the frame this time. I also noticed they are putting a little sealer on the nuts that hold the spoiler on, but it's not adequate. The way I did this it should never leak from the glass or the spoiler holes. The mirror upgrade was easy, swap the brake light, add the cable and swap the mirror. Plug-and-play.