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Slapps74

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About Slapps74

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Chris
  • Location
    Austin’ish
  • Gender
  • Drives
    ProCharged 2016 RCBS

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1,179 profile views
  1. 2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

    315/50/17 in the rear and 235/65/17 front. Yea 4/6. Just looked up Twised Metal and I think I will order that front kit for sure. Didn’t see a rear kit other than the 4 Link. That Silverado is bad!!!
  2. 2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

    I agree 100% a little stiff. Other than that so far they are ok. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

    Thanks, I liked the spindle/strut setup I have but they wont clear the wheels so a change must be made Well that's a bummer. I ordered them yesterday (DJM) since I don't really have any other options to run the stock knuckle to clear the wheel I want. First world problems I guess. Thanks, some hope! haha . Its not my daily so i'm sure it will be fine. it only saw about 5k miles last year.
  4. 2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

    How did you like your JDM stuff?
  5. So my truck has been lowered with the McGaughy's kit 34270 for over 25k miles and have had no problems. I made the switch from 22" MRR T228's to 17" Weld S77"s. IF you have the McGaughy's spindles you will not clear 17"wheels. I just had to spend $500 on the JDM front kit so I can go back to stock spindles to clear my new wheels. The rear will work fine fronts hit the spindle where the tie rod end attaches. Just an FYI incase your thinking you might go drag pack or even try to run a 17 at some point.
  6. Sweet!!! I am really impressed that you got it out without removing the oil pump!!!! I guess I didn't try hard enough! HAHA
  7. So I have a TSP Stage 3 Cam 222/230 635/635 on 112. If this is your daily it would probably be ok. Your lobe separation is wide which is better for daily. You better have a good tuner though or you will hate your life. I installed everything on my truck. The oil pan and the cylinder head have to come off (unless you not ditching the dod/afm) and its not fun on a 2wd so if your 4wd (I don't know if you are) then its really not fun. Get an ARP crank bolt and be ready to torque that to 235 ft. pounds. The cam bolt gets 48 ft. pounds plus 90 degrees. That ends up being about 148+ ftp, according to my Snap-On digital torque wrench. Use new head BOLTS, not studs. I have studs and I don't think I could get all of the studs out to remove a head if needed. Mileage will suffer as well. Its not that hard but its not exactly what I would call easy either. All and all throw a Whipple, long tubes and a tune at it and it will make 6oo+ and you can run the snot out of it all day long. Cam and DOD delete are around 2k in parts alone. Talk to Gary at TSP he will take care of you. P.S. Says the guy with a cam in my description below. Edit., I thing the stock cam is cut on a 117 or 118 LSA so I doubt you would even hear the cam at 116 LSA.
  8. This is nuts. I just sent an email to WAMS. All I want is Apple Car play and the video playback. Is there something more I should want? I don't need navigation but maybe I am missing something.....
  9. Post your 2014+ wheel/tire set-up

    Thank you and yes 4-6. Wheels are MRR T228’s in 22x10, the only size they come in for our trucks. I don’t remember if it had 305/40’s all the way around here (which will rub in the front) or if it has the 305/40 rear and 285/45 front, which is whts on it now. As soon as they show up I am going to 17x10 and 17x7 Welds and drag radials.
  10. PM Sent about you HMI Phil, this would work in my 16 LT with a reprogram correct?
  11. How do you get movies to play on your screen, the one in the dash?
  12. Thought on this Mr Phil? Also will the digital climate control work on a LT trim truck? on a side note took the truck to a local car show and several people noticed the mirrors and console. They were all amazed that it all worked. Turned them onto the forum.
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