1SLOW1500

It has been fun. But time has come to move on. If I was helping you with a tune email me directly. I am closing app. Bye. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Any major back pressure should be resolved from the bypass. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Slow, stick to forced induction and tuning discussions because when it turns to oil talk you’re coming up short pal. Ha well I do more then force induction. I had na 800hp motor and now playing with something similar in the new engines. I also spend my time at shops seeing new development and prototyping. So I spend a hour at the shop looking at shelfs full of parts and speaking to some engineers. There is way way more to the oil spec then anyone(including myself) has said on this thread. The key reasons for the oil are NOT simply fuel economy. It seems there has been much debate in the automotive industry over this, some of the reason we have new spec fluids and synthetics of all types and claims. How can I say this without saying to much...so there are some oil based issues that engineers are looking at now. In fact a 3rd party just finished a test on a new long block and it will be stripped down. They do not change oil just run engine straight for days of abuse. Best he said is everyone is a expert on the internet. So let them do to their engines what they like. Google experts. As far as the black magic comment, that was to say it is next to impossible to know what is in the oil you buy of self and more so the claims they make of them. But the pros know what works and why. He also had a tray/display of main bearings that had different oils and additives. So there is a little more to it then just weight. Also the amount of junk valve train they had there to inspect was alarming. This was gm not 3rd party shop. Next I go to see new race engines for corvettes. See what tricks I can learn. I quit just not worth my time here anymore. To many experts not enough knowledge. Question was should he change it. Answer was for the cost and the possible issues...yes. people will not add a catch can because worry or warranty but will add oil with zero regard. Then we see post of dealers needing parts to replace the afm and owners out trucks for month or more... [emoji849] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I hate worm clamps. They are for garden hoses only in my opinion. Get tube size in metric and order a package of t-clamps. Has a even pressure around the tube and spring loaded for even hold. Then I kill them. With a 1/4" air ratchet. Because they are cheap and I don't want them off anytime soon. I have 14 of t-clamps and have replaced a few. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

36in is alot. But in my picture you can see I had to move everything around to best spot. If it wasn't for the seat belt you have a straight shot of space. Also I have the rear seat flip down mod and love it. So I know there is a lot of depth there. I don't see stock alternator cable being two small. If I was worried I would get another stock one and just double up. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

One bar is equal to 14.7psi. But rule to swap to at least 2 bar in force Induction. We go right to 3 bar. And change the linear value. On the pro charger we see issues with the other map(inside the maf) causing issues in tune with the barometric readings. So there is what is called a break out. It removes the wires from maf and locates another map(stock) to atmosphere. Also if you do NOS or meth you need to also move the IAT at same time. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I have not. I have 2nd battery that has it's own ground to engine block. Idea was if stock battery is dead the other battery is a jumper so starter is important. I like the look of stock batter to alternator cable and with turbo it is rerouted high. Have no issues. If I did anything else it would just be better ground at stock battery. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

You can run a stock map but it isn't a great idea. Best to get the 3bar and as said just change the value in tune. On this setup(supercharger)belt driven a boost gauge isn't so useful. The boost is set based on pulley size and in relation to rpm. You can see it in data if you want to know where you are but day to day not important. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Yours is too clean. We would bless the oil so the drain tube is full of oil just so there isn't a air pocket trapped in it. Catch it and add it back if needed. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

So then why not run 0w20 in the vette. Why read the charts on the temps oil breaks down. Hell why even have oil weight or ratings or synthetic? Sorry but you are clueless if you believe a 1500 sees more stress towing then a corvette on track day. Have you even seen the tune even in just the trans for even tow mode?Or the data from the two? Gm have raced the corvettes and built them for abuse and still on track day many issues arise. Take to a top tier performance build and ask if oil matters or if a stock l83,l86,lt1,lt4,ect.... in different platforms,tunes, and trans matter if he says not at all it's the same then you are right. I will run it buy the head race development guy on tuesday just for good laugh. [emoji38] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I know people like to compare parts and in this case whole engines based on the a part number or engine displacement. But that is not at all comparable. The use of the engine and the power causes more heat and wear. Then because of this and other reasons the tune is night and day different. Even comparing the temperature parameters in the lt1 tune. The fans and the set temp limits change. Where have been many that simply copy over a camaro tune file to a truck and have issues. I have seen them testing the engines straight out for hours. Seems more like a oil test then engine test. But also once you start to see the oils break down and oil build up in engine you start to question much of the oil theories. Seems the world is relying heavily one the wonders of synthetic oil now. In short oil needs to match engine build and motor use. Throw in the ability to tow or realy beat on it and now you need something more. I run different weight and 7quarts then 1quart additives. Heat cycle it, with turbo I get hotter. Then top off the oil to 8qarts. I will beat big money my engine parts are cleaner then any other same engine with same miles. As I have seen results first hand. It is just like us changing the trans fluids or oil to amsoil or what ever pros and cons to everything. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Yes. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Yeah it suprises me also. They sent out the block to be inspected and the oil to a lab. Said that they want to know weight and how worn out it was. Then told owner it wasn't changed at the proper service intervals. But he had the recipes and then they allowed the warranty. This made me think how many people save recipes and how can one prove the "lab" wrong. Just seems like bs. And owner out thousands. Because they went to dealer believing it is covered then after it is stripped down, warranty denied, they have a bill and a car in pieces. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Dealer tou are right but I have been on both ends of it being sent off to be tested for a warranty claim. Oil is now a black magic of the auto industry. More so with additives and synthetic. MUCH testing goes into this. That said I have seen worse. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Reset the trans adaptive tables and it will really amaze you. Then all you need to do is keep eye on temp 180ish and you are perfect. Over 200 fluid life is reduced. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk