1SLOW1500

Hmmm ok. I my experience they do but there isn't a listed part number yet. We take the specs or measure them and order the one we need. Also other vehicles have compatible parts most the time.

Yes wilwood is great product I have had them on a few race cars. Baer had some better or i should say high rated products for more money and real high end brembo is amazing stuff. But again price point here is a factor. You also need to balance out the system. Meaning 10k brembo in carbon ceramic. Are just going to work on the factory brake system in our trucks. I love this idea I just believe the txr6 is better kit. Both in price and performance. But there is a market for both.

Not bad to have engine open as long as debris and water stay out. And I guessing they are speaking of factory part number head gaskets.

that doesn't sound right to me at all. I would take it to a good alignment shop and have the factory specs with you

Just looked weld in steel bongs are super cheap. And any muffler shop can weld it in and that would be flush to the inside of pan. Also pans are cheap. I would sell mine but again they are cheap and if I remove trans I will not do so with my aluminum moroso pan on there. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I agree. Get a garden house and tape it to the roof sit inside and find out. Have paper towel read. Fold a piece into a square and slide in up under the front of the headliner. If you get water remove the a puller and just a little pull the headliner down. Oh and pull the driver door seal off. And you will get a few inches to look in. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Any way you can get it to go no real path I would guess you are hiting wires or metal. You need to visualize what you are doing and "ride" the hidden side of the headliner so you miss the shapes in the roof panel. As the headliner is smooth. Hope that makes sense. No idea it was just a funny image. I get many comments on it. My Facebook image is the original most interesting man dos equis. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I use the 4 foot zie tie or worst case a old antenna. But if it doesn't work run it around the edge. You can pull the seal down and CAREFULLY slip the wire in with your fingers. Do not pull down on headliner Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Looks like the answer is yes energy suspension. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Onstage antenna then sunroof then door.seal in that order. Being that far up I say OnStar. I mean it can be the sunroof but wow that is a lot of water and the tube would need to be damaged or blocked. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

That is great. If you where in tow/haul or really towing it can jump/spike as much as another 20* but still that is a one minute thing and still under 200*. I would suspect that you look at the fluid at 25k and 40k it is still bright red. I would still do the pan drop and refill just to see the magnet and debris out. But your good to go. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Please don't take this wrong way. But you need to request the full history of engine codes. And all printed and logged service reports. I see 90% of the times the service employee types the invoice up in a way that works in the favor of dealer and gm. Then when it gets to this point all the customer has is he said she said. And hear say isn't proof. This are expensive vehicles and the service record is like your trucks credit score or criminal record. Once it is in there it will never go away. Even it you contact gm main service rep he is going to ask for that report. My dealer knows me well and writes it up as warrant inspection then says if it is something you have or did we will not add that in report so gm doesn't see the turbo or the programming. I say it doesn't matter I still get warranty but thanknyou and this way it is better so ok.

Inwould call DTS or moser or strang or mark William's. All are drive train specialist. I have had two dts rear ends with moser axles. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

No feed it around edges or fish it with a fish line or huge 3ft zip tie.

I agree it isn't needed. I read the after market 180* bypass thermostat still allows 10% to go to the cooler. Say helps with air pockets and to regulate the fuild wear and temp. The stock doesn't do that but as it heats up it slowly opens. Also when a future flush is done you do NOT need to get oil up to temp and check it. You can read cold line on dip stick. Or fill till it bleeds out the over flow. When you do yours. On flat ground start truck and with parking brake on and it idle shift to neutral. The pump will run the whole time and cycle all fluid. I am performance build and more then double the power and 3 times the clutch but I get up to 150 then a max of 170ish. 180* my fan on the cooler kicks in. This is considered the sweet spot. But still working on air dam and data. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk