1SLOW1500

Slow, stick to forced induction and tuning discussions because when it turns to oil talk you’re coming up short pal. Ha well I do more then force induction. I had na 800hp motor and now playing with something similar in the new engines. I also spend my time at shops seeing new development and prototyping. So I spend a hour at the shop looking at shelfs full of parts and speaking to some engineers. There is way way more to the oil spec then anyone(including myself) has said on this thread. The key reasons for the oil are NOT simply fuel economy. It seems there has been much debate in the automotive industry over this, some of the reason we have new spec fluids and synthetics of all types and claims. How can I say this without saying to much...so there are some oil based issues that engineers are looking at now. In fact a 3rd party just finished a test on a new long block and it will be stripped down. They do not change oil just run engine straight for days of abuse. Best he said is everyone is a expert on the internet. So let them do to their engines what they like. Google experts. As far as the black magic comment, that was to say it is next to impossible to know what is in the oil you buy of self and more so the claims they make of them. But the pros know what works and why. He also had a tray/display of main bearings that had different oils and additives. So there is a little more to it then just weight. Also the amount of junk valve train they had there to inspect was alarming. This was gm not 3rd party shop. Next I go to see new race engines for corvettes. See what tricks I can learn. I quit just not worth my time here anymore. To many experts not enough knowledge. Question was should he change it. Answer was for the cost and the possible issues...yes. people will not add a catch can because worry or warranty but will add oil with zero regard. Then we see post of dealers needing parts to replace the afm and owners out trucks for month or more... [emoji849] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

So then why not run 0w20 in the vette. Why read the charts on the temps oil breaks down. Hell why even have oil weight or ratings or synthetic? Sorry but you are clueless if you believe a 1500 sees more stress towing then a corvette on track day. Have you even seen the tune even in just the trans for even tow mode?Or the data from the two? Gm have raced the corvettes and built them for abuse and still on track day many issues arise. Take to a top tier performance build and ask if oil matters or if a stock l83,l86,lt1,lt4,ect.... in different platforms,tunes, and trans matter if he says not at all it's the same then you are right. I will run it buy the head race development guy on tuesday just for good laugh. [emoji38] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I know people like to compare parts and in this case whole engines based on the a part number or engine displacement. But that is not at all comparable. The use of the engine and the power causes more heat and wear. Then because of this and other reasons the tune is night and day different. Even comparing the temperature parameters in the lt1 tune. The fans and the set temp limits change. Where have been many that simply copy over a camaro tune file to a truck and have issues. I have seen them testing the engines straight out for hours. Seems more like a oil test then engine test. But also once you start to see the oils break down and oil build up in engine you start to question much of the oil theories. Seems the world is relying heavily one the wonders of synthetic oil now. In short oil needs to match engine build and motor use. Throw in the ability to tow or realy beat on it and now you need something more. I run different weight and 7quarts then 1quart additives. Heat cycle it, with turbo I get hotter. Then top off the oil to 8qarts. I will beat big money my engine parts are cleaner then any other same engine with same miles. As I have seen results first hand. It is just like us changing the trans fluids or oil to amsoil or what ever pros and cons to everything. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Yes. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Yeah it suprises me also. They sent out the block to be inspected and the oil to a lab. Said that they want to know weight and how worn out it was. Then told owner it wasn't changed at the proper service intervals. But he had the recipes and then they allowed the warranty. This made me think how many people save recipes and how can one prove the "lab" wrong. Just seems like bs. And owner out thousands. Because they went to dealer believing it is covered then after it is stripped down, warranty denied, they have a bill and a car in pieces. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Dealer tou are right but I have been on both ends of it being sent off to be tested for a warranty claim. Oil is now a black magic of the auto industry. More so with additives and synthetic. MUCH testing goes into this. That said I have seen worse. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

There is no question will it run. But what goes though my head is the if issue. If it breaks down and goes to dealer for a engine repair. They see the oil and decline warrant. So the what if of the possible issues worth $60. No it isn't. But at this point I would guess he is driving so that ship.has sailed. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I agree a little thicker is ok and more so in the warmer states. But I have to think that oil pump will not like this and I know the valve train doesn't. In my opinion it is like all the threads on fuild in trans and how/when to change. If you are wrong it gets expensive. And in your case trip ruined and stuck on road. For what under $100 worth of oil. [emoji51] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I wouldn't do it but one way to find out. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Sorry but can't remember where you are at with the truck. Is fuse pulled and rear window ok or is it blown out? If window is in and fuse pulled go get truck and drive it. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Take matters in your own hands. Print the recall and walk it into dealer. Document it all and if nothing said or started in 48hrs email service rep and have a claim number started. Least they can do is give a high end loaner. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

It guesses. But really it has no clue if there is one or a million batteries. My understanding is it sees voltage and current draw. Nothing fancy just a sensor. And thinks it is low it shuts off circuits. Much like regulating the voltage output on the alternator based on the voltage. There was a post long ago when we talked of getting the sensor on both batteries so it can learn. But no one tried it. I don't have it and never a issue because vehicle has no clue. But now you have me thinking. If I grabbed the signal wires and just feed my relay it would work like yours then swap signal wire and the connect on key on. [emoji2962] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Pcv? I had that and they disconnected a hose and it stopped. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Vacuum pump? Just a guess. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Normally it is marketed for the plow guys. They can hook up to the 2nd battery all there accessories and with truck off if truck dies you can start truck. This is why the battery doesn't connect in cranking. It would only hurt the first battery if 2nd was dead. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

First I have to state I am impressed. I was far to lazy to do the part search. I have a aftermarket relay and isolator and it connects only with key. Or when stock dies I can over ride the power to the isolator with a switch, that is powered by the 2nd battery. Start truck and switch back. This also means both charge as I drive. I got around all day like this when stock was dead. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Hole is already there on mine and I just used a hardware store nut. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Ok call me cheap but for $7.00 you can buy a bolt and the plastic puck for the hold down then remove factory tray and there is a metal tap you just increase the angle on a very small amount. Reinstall tray and your done. Tap is in photo 2 Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

It runs rich on warm up. But should lean out after that. Build up, bad cats, back o2 are the reasons this can happen. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

No the 8" I wanted where not out yet and I wanted 1000watts rms. So two at 500w on the 10" or 8" are 250watts. Buddy had a truck with 4 8" Vega and it was loud and tight. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

This was talked about but concerns of the cost in rolling out recall delayed action. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Yes it does. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Ok so it can be done. Biggest issue is if you change trans to a 8 speed. You would need to change the os in the pcm to a 6.2 file. Or at least custom tune that whole file. As fuel is biggest difference. If sensors are different many can swap. I have a 6.2 in the crate for when my little 5.3 quits. But was happy with the 5.3 and turbo. 600whp is good. And fuel is all that is holding it back now. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Many sensors work on a 5volt reference system do the value of the voltage is the sensors data value. And they share ground. So yes one cycle or a reset. Worse when you start vehicle with one unplugged then the computer needs to relearn those values, I believe that is because it assumes that the missing value is true and starts to change the tune. Then has to relearn its mistake. Or at least this is what I have seen between the maf,iat,map(maf) and intake manifold map. They all try to work together for baro and throttle % for air value. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

It is important to spec the system out but also the settings on the amp. You are correct the smaller subs can have faster response and sound crisper or tighter. This is why I have 10". If I was doing it again I would have got 4 8". And i have the subsonic on and the frequency low. Also I have small air space sealed box. It is 1000watt sub amp but gain is set at 60%. Allows for a cleaner sound,easier on equipment and more flexibility in different songs. I also still have the bose center console sub but hate it. Nothing more the a air mover to simulate bass. Also be careful what dash speakers you add to bose. Mine scream. Almost need a block inline. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk