1SLOW1500

I agree the tune is bandaid. Sounds like it is their fix just so they can say they did there part for the issue. But I will take a new pump. So far at least more me it says all I get is a the recalibration tune. I have buddies at dealer so they get paid for it so i said fine. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Toy will get the flash either way. First the update has nothing at all to do with tune it is a different control module all together. 2nd they get paid to service the vehicle and as it is a preapproved service recall all they have to do is get the vin and say they did it. So they want to do it. If and it will not but if it affects your tune they will say it is on you as it is and we all k ow that. This again is why I say have a device and your tune saved. Then you can simply thank the man pay nothing and int he parking lot....read,save, write. Then drive off. Maybe at low boost you could idle out of service bay but you are not driving home un tuned. This is why I say the new "keys" to the truck are in the software so save file on thump drive and reccomend owning a device. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

No need. And not the part that changes. But is the reason on the heavy modes vehicles why I recommend customers get there own device. Then you have the option. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Both. On the recall it is tune. if there is further issues and damage replace. Golden question is How far they take it. Do you get the "new" pump and a tune or pump, tune, line booster and master? Do you need all that maybe not but hate to learn the answer the hard way. I still haven't done mine. Maybe next week. I'm lazy/busy so they come to my house and deal with it.

I wouldn't go for a ignition wire but rather a amp turn on or rap wire. If you must use a ignition wire I would just wire a mini relay as you already have positive and negative. Then the draw is near nothing and it is isolated. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

data on it is limited and I am not at my source now. I would meter wires anyways to make sure. Do you need power, ground and remote? in that case the draw would be lower. I know the colors but there is concern that it sets a code. It is stupid but there are codes.

Under dash passenger side grey connector has all the rear harness and audio wires there is a amp turn on in there. I was also looking for the trail brake connector. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I understand but how much power are you pulling? Like 10amps or 200amps. What size wire or what are you doing? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Odd it is well known. How much amps you need there is a a few to pick from. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I had to do the same, bought a digital low pressure gauge online. At 5 you should have a firm bag but no lift. So it acts only like a cushion on down travel. That is basically what I was recommending with having just enough air that the rear starts to lift. There is a minimum air spec so the bag doesn't collapse and fold over, damaging the rubber. And they make smooth plates and spacers for that also. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

That is a nice kit....however always take into account the spec of the bag. Say it says 4" min and 12" then you want to go for somewhere in the middle. I wish they had that same kit with a different top bracket. Then cut out the stock bump stop and install flat to the frame rail. I know it would be far to stretched for most stock height and dangerous for full axle hang. But they also sell billet and even plastic bag pucks so easy to change. I find it best when truck is unloaded to only have enough air to load the bag and no more. As I have said a rake to the truck also helps. Even if it is the rear up just 1/2". But i bet you read instructions it says stock to xx lift meaning if bump stop was removed the bag would effectively act like truck has a lift and be more in spec to the range of the bag. Then you can run more air and have good ride. I did this with mine(different kit) I added a 1" spacer so bag thought it was lowered. This allows for more axle downward travel, less air and best ride quality. Air bag is a must for me, best mod. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Ok what about oil lines. There have been a few cases of small leaks. Worse under pressure so it was hard to find. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Recalibration is needed and if still there then diagnose. There are some issues and it gets very expensive. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

If I remember there are torques screws under the driver side under dash and the piece removes. I just put mine in the huge center console when I drive. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Sounds like it is in the transfer case. If truck isn't lifted or lowered then I wouldn't have reason to blame the joints first. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I agree no attack each his own. Just a educational post. we are good I can make that tick go away for super cheap also. as I said it is good just not best. If it is so good why do the guys with say a $50,000 + billet block engine not run it? I understand a daily street truck vs a 3000hp plus motor track car is two different arguments. Maybe we are back to the term "best". and this isn't even going into the weight options of the oils.....

Ok watched as much as I could. his voice is so depressing. Like that guy from the Red dry itchy eyes Ben Stein for Clear eyes. Based on the compared oils ams oil is better..... ugh ok Is it get the title of best no. But as I said there is different oil for different engines. My oil is the best but it is for the genV engine with a little shot of extra for the turbo. but it is a exact match to the the materials in the block and the use or abuse of the engine and my change schedule 3000-3500 miles. It is not commercial available. I have told the story before but recap. High end XXX natural aspirated engine goes into HUGE name big 3 contracted shop for a clean and refresh. few months later they call and are happy to tell the dyno numbers. and collect the $1200 payday. Power was down more then 150hp. 4 changes all done in minutes(one oil) and power was back. they where lost and even argued over the change. they refused and said if they did it and there isn't a size able change we had to pay for dyno and labor. They ate crow... Now there is even better oil then those. Again ams oil is good but what they are great at is claims and advertisements.

Sorry but no. It is good. it is better then most others. it is better then most all the stock engine vehicles out there. But best....NO. Issue first is what does best mean? what is the "control"? and what is brands tested? I put it at top 5.

Many say they are junk but it is a 351 with the option of the 400 crank, larger mains, and a extra inch in stroke. So naturally aspirated 600hp+ and then little 250 shot. In a super light weight big tire 1965 shelby cobra roadster. Weight 2300ish. Power to weight it is low 9 second even high 8 but short wheel base and limited traction. Also tracks kick them out. So fun street car. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

WoW that is rare to impossible. They are glued down by a automated robotic machine. You are the first I have ever heard of that. When I removed mine it was very difficult, even scraping of the glue was hard. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

You no good dirty trader. That is a Ford product. Shame on you. That said I have a 351M I will build up this winter. Most misunderstood ford made. And it is also blue. [emoji15] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

If you get under the truck there are shiny circle plugs in the bell housing the pop out and you can see if oil is in there buy sticking your fingure in and seeing if oil is there. Also gm changed the oil amount required in this truck so even if you are not over but on spec, it needs to be at the updated amount of oil. I run low oil for a week or two before I top off. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

First thing that comes to mind is rms(rear main seal. How much oil do you run? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

In my opinion they are nice but no where near bright enough to be useful. But it is ok cheap led all weather lights taped into the factor and some 3M tape and you are set. Now you can see the whole bed. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I have a red and a yellow only because I had reds brand new sitting in garage but months later the stock battery was dieing soni call up to get a optima and they said it is a new battery type and Optima Carrie's it in yellow top so I said fine. With my isolator the batteries are separated until the switch is on or the key is turned. Then if truck is running they both charge. Nothing fancy but works. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk