1SLOW1500

Just looked weld in steel bongs are super cheap. And any muffler shop can weld it in and that would be flush to the inside of pan. Also pans are cheap. I would sell mine but again they are cheap and if I remove trans I will not do so with my aluminum moroso pan on there. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Just saw the gm 22" say will not clear the brembo brakes. Another win on wilwood. But again if you make it work I may still go GM as I get the parts. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

So that Baer number is the rotor for our trucks? and then you want to run that rotor and the CTS-v caliper? Quick search seams it isn't much worth it. I agree huge stopping power but cost over performance it is a lose. The wilwood 6 piston is much larger, more rotor/caliper/pad/and size options, and we know it fits. I am seeing the calipers for front are $700 and rear are another $400. then pads and rotors. These rotors are $270 each. and still need the custom adapter brackets. I very soon need better front brakes but need to nail down rim and tires first. see limited on rim size. But 1800-2k gets huge two piece rotors powder coated calipers and pads. Lines are extra. But if you get the bracket worked out please post. I would be interest to know other options. https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitSearch?year=2016&make=GMC&model=Sierra+1500&option=Denali&axle=Front+Kit https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitSearch?year=2016&make=GMC&model=Sierra+1500&option=Denali&axle=Rear+Kit

I like to also change the traction control, disable afm, clean up the commanded afr. The direct injection run better a little cleaner. Also you can remove torque management and then data log to see what the truck really has before the stock tune limits it. Look at the afr and idle tables and see the engine coolant temp that the computer then allows for lower rpm at idle and the power enrichment. Also not everyone but some I find a issue in the tire size another reason I mess with traction control. If truck as exhaust or intake you can adjust the air flow tables to try to make it calculate a like better with demanded throttle. Biggest thing is data logging throttle voltage not percent. And then drive it. You will see demand 100% throttle body not then the game is to find out why? Hp tuners for everything. For me.[emoji106] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Post the part number and the rotor size. The bracket to fit caliper to spindle isn't a huge issue assuming the CTS-v is larger then our stock. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I know but I like the 24" look and also how low is a 3/5 drop with race stars? Best would be 20"or 22" but again need width and all I see is 9 or 9.5 Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

DUB 8-ball S213 in 24x10? What rubber is on there I need wider wheels. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

May I ask a question for those with 40k plus miles? How many trans pan drop and or flushes have you done by that mileage? Thank you. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I agree with this unless you have much heavier wheels and tires. Also the pedal feel and customer felt grip or confidence is there. I have had wilwood,Baer,aerospace, and strange. In everything from daily,autocross, and drag racing. Daily is the most difficult to size and dial in. I believe the compound and surface space is what gave it the feel of being better not the hole and slots or the 6 pistons. Buddy has hardcore track car and it is solid disc and 4 piston. He swears it doesnt need more then that. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

He said the spacers are for the caliper mounting bolts. And this is reasonable on a dual side of rotor pistons as the alignment is key to even clamping and wear. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Yes and no. 4 piston calipers are more then twice the clamping force. And the caliper is a better material. Also the rotor is better if it is larger for heat distribution and surface space but it is also more mass to move. Pros and cons of everything. Also I would look more at brake feel under lower line pressure and fade under heavy use. GM says 22 and bigger wheel need performance brake kit. And my 24" and power level could use wilwood huge brake kit. If you read up on this drilled is more of a looks then performance. Big race kits are slotted or nothing. Even wilwood and bear have wrote articles on this. I want the wilwood but if I switch to smaller wheels I would rather have this, then there is the rear issue. Can't fit 15" with slicks out back with even stock brakes. So 1320 makes a rotor and single or dual caliper kit. Some say down grade but it is more surface and clamping force. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

2500 helper bag. It will sit any way you like but rides better and tow more. Bolt install. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Michigan was the power house of good performance shops for a long time. We lost a few of the best like Urban from w2w he moved down south. But still have Walsh in commerce. And bill Briggs. Lingenfelter and katech. Vector in Brighton. Also with the GM proving grounds in Milford there are a hand full of gm employees that offer tunes. Not to mention the tuner guru off then all Greg banish, he teaches tuning now but is arguably the best in the USA sells books and movies on tuning the pros use. Just stay away from Livernois, very bad news shop. Also some great chassis and fab shops. As well as diesel. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I hate the tow down shift but maybe it works in towing a heavy load. The trans can be fixed with a tune. My experience with he noise you hear is the power steering pump. I'm not saying that is your issue on a brand you truck. In tune you could and should remove v4 mod also then no exhaust valve noise issues. I know this may not be what you want to hear but if a service manager or any service man started by saying he didn't think they can fix a issue I would walk out and go somewhere else. Waste of time and they write a service ticket to you vin.

I'm interested but first I will research it a little more and see that I can get. And powder coat options. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

If you don't mind me asking what city of Michigan are you located? I am the waterford area but all over oakland county. Are you saying there is a front wheel spacer needed to clear the caliper to the rim? If so how big as I have 24x9" wheels and lowered 3/5" so spacer may be limited.

Need more details. What is the rotor size vs stock? And front only what about rear, just curious. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I see what you are saying and that is addressed in the gm bulletin number 2. Lol You see truck comes in gets a intake clean but the heat and debris cause O2 and cats to be destroyed then those get replaced. Unfortunately at the customer's cost at that point. There have been post on here of just that. Gm does the intake clean because it is cheap and get customer on road when still in warranty. But was the cause of the problem addressed? No. So it will happen again. The catch cans have been common mod all the way back to the LS1. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Lot of miss information here. There are bulletins and dozens of videos on this and gm knows of the issue. There are gm sold catch can systems. This statement is like saying gm knows the issues with the trans or exploding rear window but don't fix it....oh wait they do and don't fix it. Odd right. Even Ford is having same issues and there is a can systems. There are Government statements on oil consumption and debris build up. Gm switched the oil capacity levels after RMS failure and any performance build under boost have huge crank case vent systems, makes you wonder what the blow by numbers are. Even question why the direct injection motors have so many PCV tubes? I can pull 1/2" of oil and water out per week.

You are correct it is illegal. Most companies list them as off road use or race use. Safety equipment must be approved and tested as is. I would worry about the liability but also getting hurt myself. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I don't understand why can't I just motor the seat up with the button for power seats. Not that it matters at 6' 2". Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I am only saying that on some models the fuse also runs other things you do need or want. Also why do you think it is the defrost circuit and not 1 or 2 other factors as well? There are other ways to resolve the issues that cost money but if you diy then under $20. I now not for everyone and many will say no gm has to do it. I will not get into the rights and wrongs of it just saying search around some may be worth tou time. If you are happy with fuse out, great. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I will just say ok. Hope it doesnt blow out with the fuse removed. [emoji106] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Fuse isn't the issue or the solution. More so for other people that that circuit covers. But your truck do as you wish. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

On a stock oil pan thickness it screws down flush. But you can always mount it to the side as well. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk