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ShotgunZ71

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Everything posted by ShotgunZ71

  1. ShotgunZ71
    Back in the day when you had the ignition key to start it, then the oval key (GM and Ford) for the doors and trunk. Two keys, but still a simpler time.
  2. ShotgunZ71
    I'm hearing that Ford has tightened up some things for 2023 Super Duty where Forscan doesn't get everything as customizable as before. Not sure, as I don't know anymore that has gotten a 2023 yet. It would be nice if GM would allow you to at least switch the tachometer and speedometer locations on the newer trucks!
  3. ShotgunZ71
    If it has the OEM "Ranchos", you could have changed them when you drove it home. Other than that, the Bilstein 5100 or 4600 series are very good replacements. Some have gotten a set of Fox shocks, too. I changed mine out before 25k miles and have been very happy with the improved ride and handling, especially when loaded. I went with the Bilstein 5100s. The stock shocks were already shot, but no visible leaks.
  4. ShotgunZ71
    My current truck got the power step update when I had the oil changed. So far, they've been great since.
  5. ShotgunZ71
    Ok. I know they work on the pre-24 HD trucks. Probably due to the new electrical architecture on the refresh. Maybe someone will have an updated test plug for you soon, or you can rig something up.
  6. ShotgunZ71
    Harbor Freight has test plug for $4 that will allow the turn signal camera mode to be active. Works very well!
  7. ShotgunZ71
    That looks very good at night. It's not overpowering, either.
  8. ShotgunZ71
    So the door pocket drink holders are the only ones in the lower trims. I didn't realize that and thought all had the center armrest.
  9. ShotgunZ71
    The above is correct. The middle armrest in the rear has two cupholders. Also, the doors have pockets to hold drinks and such. Hope this helps you out!
  10. ShotgunZ71
    My thinking was that if you have enough between spoiler and roof, most of the water would have to go down the channels on the sides, instead of rolling over spoiler and then down to the top of the slider. What was your test and results, other than dust collecting on the silicone?
  11. ShotgunZ71
    Anyone ever tried just filling the gap between the spoiler and roofline with clear silicone? Not removing the spoiler, just pumping in silicone all along the top. If so, how did it do? This could be a decent proactive measure or repair.
  12. ShotgunZ71
    What I used to do in those situations is lock out 6th and maybe 5th. It keeps the RPM up and you won't lose speed as bad, if at all. Also, I found that the towing MPG was actually better when doing that. The engine stayed in it's sweet spot and wasn't playing catch up constantly.
  13. ShotgunZ71
    I'd advise against that. The transmission thermostat in these newer transmissions (across the board) keep the transmissions in their optimal operating/efficiency range. Plus, many actually run too hot without the thermostat, thus shortening the lifespan of the fluid , and possibly, transmission.
  14. ShotgunZ71
    I recently went back to an HD for towing our TT. Not that the 1500, 6.2, standard bed couldn't do it, just that things feel more stable with the HD for my liking. All my other tow vehicles have been HD trucks, so I was used to that type of a feel when towing. As someone said earlier, these newer HD trucks aren't bad as daily drivers at all. Most ride better than 1500s from a few years back. The new 6.6 gas with the Allison 10-speed would be a great choice for the OP's use.
  15. ShotgunZ71
    The refreshed models, and most 2019+ with the 10-speed transmission are not yet compatible with the Pulsar, Range, etc to disable DFM or autostop. Entirely new electrical infrastructure on the refreshed models, making it more difficult to "hack" and make changes.
  16. ShotgunZ71
    I ask that because of the reports of modules/chips ordered, but no or slow shipment. Hopefully people aren't getting led along to get their hopes up.
  17. ShotgunZ71
    How long did it take from the time the dealer was able the parts to when they arrived and could be installed?
  18. ShotgunZ71
    I believe since the torque curve is flat and the engine is near max torque for so long, it allows the engine to rev a little higher and have more HP before shifting. Having both the HP and torque near their peak or meeting point is ideal. Others that have the 3.0 can offer more insight, I'm sure.
  19. ShotgunZ71
    That's what I noticed. The seats in the refresh aren't a firm as the others. Granted, I had a 2500 HC and a 2500 Denali, but the seats were the same. These new ones seem to have more give to them. However, as you said, will they hold up as well as the others. What I've always noticed is that while the GM truck seats were much firmer than that of Ford or RAM, they held up better over time and didn't get flat or sink.
  20. ShotgunZ71
    Shew, newdude! I had to re-read the quoted post a few times until I realized your 257mi was a typo. You meant gallons, I see. I was thinking no way in the world is 1 qt/257mi acceptable for any engine.
  21. ShotgunZ71
    The tailgate switch interrupts the power circuit going to the latch mechanisms for the inner gate. No worries about switch in console or fob, as they only release the main gate.
  22. ShotgunZ71
    The ones I have will only lockout the inner gate. Everything else functions normally. Haven't heard of many GM tailgates dropping on their own, but I suppose it is possible. Not overly concerned about that scenario, though. It was a pretty quick install and the directions are straightforward and simple. I've not had any issues with either that I've had. They've worked well and no other problems with them being erratic or otherwise.
  23. ShotgunZ71
    My refresh Silverado LTZ does the same. The top part unlatches, you drop the main gate, the inner part still comes down. Perhaps it's not active on all models. Personally, I've installed www.tailgatefix.com on my past 2 trucks with the Multi-Pro/Flex tailgate. That's worked great for several years and I don't need a goofy looking hitch, either.
  24. ShotgunZ71
    Same here, as well.
  25. ShotgunZ71
    I say "no", there's no such thing. Normal driving is perfectly fine. I drive my vehicles normal from the test drive to the time I trade or sell. I go above 55, sometimes even have to brake hard. No issues to date. Yes, even a few heavy-foot moments with less than 1000 miles have occurred. Don't do these things repetitively and all should be good. Not going to purchase a vehicle and ****-foot the test drive or the first 500 or 1000 miles. That's just crazy. Don't flog it continuously, but don't baby it either.

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