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mdes0

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Everything posted by mdes0

  1. mdes0
    I ran mine without the main belt on and it still made the noise. I also had hoped it was the idler pully. I wasn't able to get the ac belt off at the time though, had just had shoulder surgery. Could be the bearings in the compressor I suppose.
  2. mdes0
    I pulled the main belt off mine and started it up. Still made the noise, so it's not the idler pulley. I wasn't able to get the ac belt off, dam stretch belts are a ******, even worse when your down to one arm. Had shoulder surgery a week ago. Guess I'll be going to the dealer for this after all.
  3. mdes0
    I beleive I may have found the chirping issue. I think it is the idler pulley. I sprayed it with wd-40 and the chirp went away for a while. I'm now debating whether or not to bother with the dealer or just swap out the part. Its only 35 bucks and one bolt so not sure it's worth the time to bring it to the dealer... Anyone had the idler pulley replaced to eliminate the chirp and not had it work?
  4. mdes0
    My 19 LTZ 6.2 has been making this noise for a while and has been getting worse. I thought it was the high flow cat y pipe I installed. Glad to hear it's not, but not looking forward to dealing with the dealer...
  5. mdes0
    Yes, mine drops when the temps get under 35 or so and it drops quick. LIke from 18ish to 15. Has done this ever since GM did the catching on fire recall. From what I understand to solve the problem they richened the mixture to keep the exhaust cooler. Evidently running really lean was the main cause of the fires as the exhaust manifolds would get so hot while idling plastic that was near by would melt and then catch on fire when it finally dripped on the exhaust.
  6. mdes0
    My cab had a few mystery water leaks as well. First it was the satellite antenna, then it was a pinch weld in the roof panel that had burned through the metal when it was built! I got lucky and had a tech that didn't give up. They replaced the sunroof seals, readjusted and it still leaked when it rained hard. The tech took a chance and pulled back the door seals along the roof edge, saw nothing wrong but still grabbed a hose and ran water over the roof with the seal pulled back. He noticed a little whirlpool form where water was getting through a pin whole in a pinch weld. It would take a lot of rain since it had to fill the roof panel before it would get in the cab and leak down the b pillar. Anyway, a little seam sealer on the hole and no more leak.
  7. mdes0
    HEy Folks, I've kept up with this topic for months so I know how previlent this issue seems to be so imagine my suprise when I was reading through the complians for the 2014 Sierra at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ and only found one vibration compliant. Why aren't people logging this problem with the government?
  8. mdes0
    Have you noticed any improvements since installing? Any MPG increase?
  9. mdes0
    So I accelerated at full throttle the other day and found that my truck also vibrates through 1st gear. Actually stops vibrating shortly before the shift to 2nd. Leads me to believe its in the trans.
  10. mdes0
    I'll try that later today. If that is when it is happening to you then I would suspect a bad u-joint or incorrectly installed joint. I say that because when you accelerate hard like that the rear end twists the pinion into a higher angle which could make an existing problem worse. Will let you know what I find.
  11. mdes0
    Mine does not have any acceleration vibration. No vibration at all actually. All Terrain crew cab with 3.42's and 20's with crap goodyears. That one could be loose plug wire I bet.
  12. mdes0
    My dealer had to balance my tires at 12 miles. It had the vibration so I refused to accept delivery until they resolved it. Dealer never mentioned this 500 mile thing.
  13. mdes0
    What size tires did you go with? Any rubbing? My gas milage has been in the crapper since the recall flash. I'm lucky to see 17 on the highway! Seems to get better mileage under 60.
  14. mdes0
    Picked my black AT up back in October. Put a 2.5 RC lift in it shortly after. I'm debating lifting it 6 inches and going with aftermarket wheels and 35's but since I'm on the road a lot I keep going back to just the 2.5 and a set of Toyo MTs on the factory wheels. We'll see what happens in the spring I guess. She's up to 3700 miles with no real big issues. It did vibrate the first time I drove it, had 12 miles at that point. Had the stealer road force balance the tires then it was all good. Also found that the roof had a bunch of dents a few weeks after delivery, but the dealer took good care of it. Picture is before the foot of snow we got over the last few days:). http--,,--// Matt
  15. mdes0
    Has anyone had their wheel run on the balancer without a tire? Could there be a bad batch of wheels?
  16. mdes0
    I figured out the torque specs. Upper ball joint, real tight (can't get a torque wrench in there). Found on the web it is supposed to be torqued to 34lbs Upper strut bolts, real tight Lower strut bolts, RC instructions specify 35lbs Rear shock lower mount 64lbs, figured it out using my torque wrench Rear leaf u-bolts, 34lbs, figured it out using torque wrench. Also, found that I didn't need to remove the tie rod end from the spindle in the front and I didn't need to remove the shock from the lower mount when doing the rear. Before: After:
  17. mdes0

    Truck

    Images added to a gallery album owned by mdes0 in General/Off Topic

  18. mdes0
    IMG 20131125 151747 996

    From the album: Truck

    After 2.5 RC lift
  19. mdes0
    IMG 20131124 132741 072

    From the album: Truck

    Before
  20. mdes0
    You guys have the torque specs for the upper ball joint, sway bar end link, and rear spring bolts? Want to install my 2.5 RC lift tomorrow.
  21. mdes0
    Mine is quieter and smoother than my last three Infinitis. Sounds like you got a bad one.
  22. mdes0
    Silver Spaceship, you ever have your tires road force balanced? If they are off extra load would definitely make it worse. I know people have been saying the pinion angle could be off but I don't see how that would cause a vibration unless the spring blocks in the rear suspension had different angles cut in them or if one didn't seat on the rear end properly. I have experienced vibrations above 50 in a different car when the u-joint wasn't bolted to the rear end properly, kid who bolted it up didn't notice that one side was sitting on the alignment tab. As others have mentioned could be a out of balance drive shaft. Could also be a defective u-joint somewhere on the drive line. With all the tire related issues I've seen posted I would lean that way though, and as I mentioned in an earlier post my vibration which came on about 70, went away once the dealer road force balanced the tires. I also towed my 6k lb boat yesterday and no vibrations at all, pulled like a bull.
  23. mdes0
    I picked up my 2014 Sierra All Terrain last night and so far everything has been great. I test drove it the day before to give the dealership the ok to spray the bed liner and during the test drive I noticed a vibration mostly through the steering wheel, like some have described. I told the dealer and they had the service department look at it before I picked it up last night. They force road balanced the tires and the vibration is gone, drives beautifully. My vibration came on around 75 and persisted through 80+. Was very slight under 75. Only have 120 miles on it so if anything changes I'll let you guys know.
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