alexgg2

I have the same fuel maverick wheels but I went with 20x10 2-piece wheels with the gloss black instead of flat black. where are your center caps they are missing?

I've noticed a lot of people complaining about rough country plastic spacers which in reality is not plastic but a fiberglass reinforced nylon which is really strong and can handle more pressure per square inch than most metals. Everyone thinks that since its metal its stronger when in reality could be a lot weaker. I have seen so many aluminum kits snap in half do to poor aluminum quality as well as it being a cast piece opposed to a forged piece. For those who don't know the differences a cast piece has molten aluminum poured into a mould to create the piece. A forged piece is a block of molten aluminum that has been compressed and let dry to a solid block then placed into a CNC machine and then the design is cut out. The problem with cast is that when its poured into an mould and let dry small air pockets are formed inside most not visible to the naked eye which create weak spots where the part can easily snap as I have seen happen to a lot of these cheap ebay kits. A forged piece is stronger as it reduces significantly the air pockets in the piece. If you weigh a cast and forged piece same design the forged piece will always weigh more as it has been compressed. Don't buy the cheap aluminum ebay kits, buy from a reputable company as they have done the research and testing. To those who still question the fiberglass reinforced nylon block strength I used to own an f150 with a 3" body lift with reinforced nylon blocks. The truck was in an accident on the highway and rolled over. The truck was totaled cab crushed in frame bent like crazy and twisted as well. The floor of cab ripped apart at spot welds. The blocks were intact, never bent, cracked or snapped a bolt. After seeing this I never question the strength of these reinforced nylon blocks as I know they will not fail. I have not heard of anyone saying these nylon blocks cracking or breaking, just negative remarks from those who don't know what they are talking about.

Most likely, with 285/55/20 on a 20x9 -0- offset wheel all you will probably need is a 2" leveling kit. No need for 2.5" or taller leveling kit with 285. With a 2.5" leveling kit and 20x9 wheel -0- offset people have been putting 305's with no rub.

as long as you use a 20x9 with 0 offset you should be fine, Once you use a 20x10 wheel thats when you run into problems but if you want the deep dish look the 20x10 wheel is the way to go. Just stick to a 5" backspacing and go with 285/55/20 to be on the safe side. It will still look aggressive if you go with mud tires or all terrains.

2014 Sierra with 2.5" rough country leveling kit on 20x10 wheels and 295/55/20 nitto trail grapplers. It had a lot of rub at full wheel lock which I fixed by hammering in inner fender where plastic fender trim bolts into inner fender wheel well. Lots of people cut inner wheel well and grind off inner sheet metal to clear tires when turning. Hammer worked for me and cleared the tires. You can't even tell anything was modified. Looks completely stock unlike others who have trimmed there wheel wells on previous model to fit tires. If anyone is looking to do a 20x10 wheel go with 5" backspacing. I went with the 4.75" backspacing since thats the only backspacing they had available in the Fuel Maverick 2-Piece wheels which I like a lot more than there 1 piece wheels. The 2piece wheel comes in a nice gloss black finish while the one piece wheels come in flat black and looks more like an undercoating finish which i didn't like. A 295/55/20 might work on a 20x10 wheel with 5" backspacing with slight modifications with a hammer like i did. If none/or very slight modifications want to be done to clear the 20x10 wheel with a 5" backspacing go with a 285/55/20 tire. Just my suggestion to anyone wanting to do 20x10. I will post more pics of where I hammered to clear tires and do a video to post on youtube.