14'SilveradoLT

Several of us who have data logged these motors agree that 89 (personally 91+) octane should be used. The truck pulls a pretty good amount of timing on 87 octane..... On the switch to V4 there's a lot of KR (under low load not a huge issue).

I've got in touch with one my previous tuners and I'm going to go the SCT X4 route. Mainly I'm very familiar with SCT data logging process coming from the EcoBoost. It's gonna probably take me ~a month to get money right, but he definitely makes/made the Eco much better. He should do the same on this one. BTW, this will be street tuned (I prefer it, IMHO I'd prefer the overall drivability than just a dyno tune).

That would be GREAT!!!

I'm hoping that down the road I'll have a reason to have a detonation issue, lol. That's a long long way off though.

That's definitely simplistic... The good thing is that with the AFE Stage II, is that I will not feel bad about tapping the elbow. I'm guessing that the spare battery tray was put there just for a meth/alky tank. Been looking into Devil's Own kits.

That's why I'm working building a meth/alky kit in the next few months. I figure it and the catch can will be great with a future tune.

When I took mine in for an oil change about a week ago...I asked them to check for updated transmission flashes and they mentioned that they were seeing some "low idle issues". However, it sounded more like a stalling at idle, anyone had that happen?

If you are considering that new Ford, don't look at that EcoBoost, haha. I know 100% that the engine failures on it have been 30x's the rate of the GM 6.2L. Unless they have drastically changed the CAC on 3.5L...it will pool water in the elbow under low/no loads and pull in that water all at once under boost. They've throwing rods for years....which is why I swapped. I also received the worst support from Ford Corp ever during warranty work. In my 2005 SSS AWD, GM stepped up at 8 years and 55K miles to swap the gauge cluster free and clear...and it wasn't on the recall list. Ford wouldn't even give me a rental at one year old and 10K miles when they kept my Eco for 20+ days. GM has ordered you a brand new crate motor, that's GREAT!!!

I know that the superchips' tuned on the ecoboost were hot and had quite a bit detonation...the canned tunes are only as good as they are written... Not many people posting if they have them.

Someone needs to pin the routing for the 5.3L and 6.2L...on the front page or something. I think it would curb some questions and help people find the answer MUCH quicker. BTW, I'm brainstorming another way to keep the backside of the valves cleaner, I hope someone else beats me to it. I'm waiting on taxes to return and about to call Devils Own.

We were using these cans exclusively on the EcoBoost F150's. The "initial" quality was outstanding....but after several orders the quality control def hit the pits. Check around on the F150 forum and people really started having issues with the owner. Still a nice can....but there two others that perform as well.. The new UPR with updated diffuser is solid can for aabout 100.00 less...you need to build the kit (they may have one by now).

Just FYI, the new UPR can with the Updated diffuser was tested by a few Ecoboost owners and tested extremely well vs the RX. Don't shy away from the UPR with the better diffuser if you find a good deal on it.

I agree, that was originally going to be in that post.

Just a disclaimer, "these one time cleanings" are not usually recommended very often. The reason is because small carbon deposits can get caught near/on the rings and then scar the cylinder walls. These cleanings work well----but just remember---it's probably better to keep it as clean as possible.

I'm seriously thinking about adding some meth/alky injection to the AFE pipe and a catch can....between the two the DI engine should be good to go without a cleaning for a pretty good while.

Right at the airbox....for whatever reason my box's feet do not fit tight. The box is lighter than the stock one and under load flexes which causes a vibration or rattle. That is gone now. It may have also been contacting the brace that is near the passenger's side headlight.

EDIT: I just caught what you were throwing. This is what Bass Mechanic is referring to I think.. "Almost all vehicles show a pulse width of zero when coasting while in gear. Zero, as in there is no fuel injected at all. Yes, the engine is turning over, the pistons are going up and down, the water pump, alternator and a/c compressor are working, so technically you can say the engine is running, sort of. But it's not consuming any fuel. And that goes for automatic or manuals. Okay, eventually, at the bottom of the hill or as you creep up to the traffic light, the engine finally will slow to idle rpm—at which point the fuel injection will wake up and start adding fuel to keep the engine from stalling. That usually starts at around 1000 rpm, and if you pay attention, you can sense when it's happening as the engine will rev up slightly. And that's when the scan tool or oscilloscope will show injector dwell rise from 0 to 5 to 10 percent. So you're actually wasting gas by putting your car into neutral." ----http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/news/coasting-in-neutral-fuel-economy

I had a vibration with my AFE Momentum Stage 2....Ran two large zip ties over it and it now has been great. Much much happier w/o the vibration.

^^^I was running solely 93 octane but the Shell decided get water in the tanks (so I'm avoiding it) and it went to .30 cents more than 89. I swapped to 89 the knock counts on the stock tunes "okay" for the most part. So, I may run 89 over 93 for a while since I'm still un-tuned.

I just re-installed my AFE 2si with two large zip ties and the "rattle" sound under light throttle is about 85% gone.....I think she stay on longer. It was just one of those "things" that bugged me. Sounds pretty awesome under WOT.

Notice any changes in the tune, as far as AFR/knock/timing in your tune? I would assume that the numbers might stay more linear.