Strykers_Inc

That is the route to go in my opinion

Yes.....the bezel that holds the factor c-shape led lens....its like a thinner shroud You can also get hairline fractures on the inside of the clear lense when pulling them apart.

Yes I have, and these were done by Fastheadlights with one off Diode Dynamics C-shape switchbacks. Its not as easy as with 14-15 lights, and the lenses can flex rather easily causing lens distortions.

I have two sets done, complete retrofits on 2016 SLE lights. As far as I know, I have the only diode dynamics c-led switchbacks. I have had them since last September but I don't think they will be released until April. I have a set of stock 16 SLE lights with 1 broken tab for $1000 shipped OBO. Tab can be safety wired. If you want to see my current 16 lights, check my build..

Baking them can cause issues. Some of the plastic inside warps.

Good job on them. I am in the process of doing a couple sets of 2016 SLE's and redoing my original 2014 Denali lights. They will be for sale by January.

Thanks!

Those are completely customized 2016 SLE Lights. The 1st set done by Phil @ Fastheadlights. Check my build for further info.

22x9 Custom Powdercoated OE's. I had two sets powdercoated gloss black inside and out for full coverage....most replicas and oem's are not painted on the inside rim. One set each for winter and summer...

Ran out of time this last weekend....maybe this weekend....have a roll in my shop. Just not as important to me as it is to some folks....

I still have a new in box Belltech 6401 shackle set. $70 shipped - PM me if you want it.

Compared to the stock Rancho's, the Bilstein 4600's blow them away. The ride is better than expected with way faster response.

I happen to have a Belltech 6401 shackle kit if anyone is interested. Good for 2 or 3 inch drop. Its new in Box.....PM me...

Small Town USA 4th of July.....

Which Belltech kit?

Looks great. Cant wait to get to that portion of my light upgrade. Excellent Job!

Still have a few dash trim panels to carbon but the build is getting done. Custom Door Panels with Illusion Audio Carbon C8 8-Inch Midbass Drivers Mosconi DSP Controller Flush mounted in Dash with Phoenix Gold ZRDT-3 Voltage Monitor LED Please Vote for my Car Audio Build on Facebook. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Phoenix Gold Car Audio Build of the Month (#PhoenixGold #PhoenixGoldBuild) To vote you have to click on the picture/link below and then select the VOTE button. It may ask you to log in, and if it does, you have to log in to your Facebook account before voting. Voting Ends on April 30th so please help me out and VOTE before then. This is the very first build competition they have done and it’s just fitting a GM truck wins! http://woobox.com/tw8dew/gallery/fl5HEuZNnk0

You can get the molex-type plugs out. I have run 12 Ga cable into my doors. Honestly it's more trouble than it is worth, and if you don't have small hands it's a real PITA. Once I had the passenger door done, I couldn't stop And had to do the other door. Needless to say my rear doors are using existing wire. My buddy Kyle's truck is using existing wire with no issues. Unless you are trying to push an ungodly amount of power into those door speakers, existing wire is fine. I have 8-inch drivers as part of a three-way system in the doors and wanted to ensure I had clean cable going in there. First and foremost, diconnect the negative terminal on your battery and wrap it in a towel or plastic so there is no way to connect to anything....I am overly safe. If you look in the door jam at the boot, push down on the top of the boot and away from the truck and the boot will open up exposing the molex. There is a majenta handle on it that when pulled on will disconnect the molex. You have two options from there. Drill out the inner and outer molex plugs where there are no connections making sure that the holes are drilled perfectly clean. This has to be perfect because if not, the plugs will not connect back together properly and lock. The second option is to cut the inner and outer plugs and solder your own wires in place circumventing the molex. Option two sounds difficult, but it's really not, it's just time consuming and a PITA because wire colors are duplicated. Also in option two you will have to dremel out the inner molex and route it back into place in order to reattach the boot. I know this because I had to take the time and do option two, and I will never do that again. I put a lot of time and detail into getting it right and it's way more than needs to be done. Like I said, once I got one door done, I kinda had to get the opposite door done to be symmetrical. My rear doors only have 6.5's so I am using existing wiring. Honestly, as I have learned, anything more than the factory wiring is overkill. To tap the factory wiring after the Bose amp, just expose some of the wire and solder in an attaching wire from your own amp. Make sure to unplug that wire from the Bose amp though. Be careful when playing around that bose amp, disconnecting all the plugs can really screw with it. The Bose amp requires a load on it in order to work correctly and it has been documented that some people have tapped it in such a way as to zero it out because the amp no longer seen a load enough for it to actually turn on. The easiest way to tell is if your 8-inch screen acts as if it is on but with a black screen....reverse camera still works. If you need some help, I am here, just PM me or post on my build and I will get a notice. Click & Vote for my Phoenix Gold Audio Build please! http://woobox.com/tw8dew/gallery/fl5HEuZNnk0

No offense taken, was confusing since you quoted my post.....and I am with you on getting the bumper painted again this spring....lots of gravel on the highways lately, and idiot drivers who can't seem to stay between the painted lines....I would do XPEL rather than 3m.....it's on the list for this coming year....have xpel on the hood and lights and it's pretty damn tough....

It must be whatever it is you're viewing it on that's off, your eyeball, or perspective, or picture. It's also funny how you're editing as I am typing...... I have serious OCD and if it didn't match it would bother me to no end. The body shop I used is the GM body shop for this region. They use they exact paint according to the paint codes via GM. For this reason, they don't like to paint individual pieces because they have to mix large quantities. So when it's time for Onyx Black, that's when I get my parts in...lol...I have a few more parts going in soon. BTW, to prove my point....my truck is a Denali....the bumper comes from the factory as Onyx Black....

Yep....had to remove bumper to install the new one.....PITA!

Nope, purchased my own, went to the dealership and had the gm paint shop do it. Perfect match. I believe all said and done $145 out the door and on my truck.

Had gm color match mine.

Installing Phase2 of a four phase car audio build....