badchevy

Bought a new Sierra 1500 that was lifted and setup with large tires. Also painted fender flares installed before the truck hit the lot. I removed the fender flares to avoid the paint and clear coat rubbing until I have clear protectant installed. To accommodate the flares and larger tires, the fender liner was trimmed as well as some of the lower valance deflector on the front bumper. The mud guards were also removed. Since I took the flares off I am adding the guards and replacing the liners to fill the gap left. Apparently there is also a bracket on the lower rear of the front fender that the liner and mudguard attach to with hex screws and a bolt. I’ve looked online high and low and most GM part diagrams for these brackets. Does anyone who has modified their wheel well/fenders for larger tires have the brackets they want to part with or can get a number off them? I believe they are black and mount to the cab/chassis behind the gray fender liner and front mud guard

If the projectors that come with them are not bad, it still could be a good way to go. The D2S bulbs are really powerful and put out a nice beam. I coupled mine with the Matsushita Gen V ballasts from TRS and glad I did. The 6000k bulbs are a clean white and lay down and good beam. Could be the FXRs that make it look so good, though. I was too busy this weekend to try out the replica projectors, but plan on doing it soon. If they don't work all that good, I will see if I can figure out a way to make the FXRs work.

Those fog lights are a clean bright white, so you will not want the 4500k lamps. They will have a hint of yellow and be closer to the stock bulbs. You will want 5500 or even 6500 to get that LED clean white.

No, I didn't even run the projectors that came in the replicas. I already had my box from TRS with the FXRs and the D2S bulbs and took the replica projectors out as soon as I got the headlights. I think I may give them a try though. I could only get the bottom two screws in the fxrs with the adapters. The bottom adapter needed to be flexed as the mounting holes in the headlights were closer together. I actually broke one and had to call to order another. The projectors flopped around since there wasn't anything on the top side to hold them down. I didn't want to go too tight on the bottom as that is how I broke the one adapter. Also, the metal in the replicas are cheap pot metal or something. I successfully cracked the metal on one of the screw mounts. I wasn't going gorilla on them as I was being very diligent with the lenses and all. Since I had so many issues, I ran the setup for a couple weeks and switched back to stock housings until I find another option to run the projectors. Still looking for a good deal on a passenger side OE housing as the driver side one I have setup went well.

I tried this a few months ago with not much luck. The projectors in the replicas must have different mounting specs than the projectors in the OEM LTZ headlights. The brackets from fast headlights are designed for the OEM specs. I had the FXR projectors in the replicas, but they were not secure as I wanted them and you have to do some flexing on the mounting kit. I picked up a used driver side OEM LTZ headlight and the kit went in must nicer.

Funny you bring this up. The issue only has occured for me radomly. It actually happened yesterday and I was kind of fed up. I read on a Toyota lift forum that a guy was having the same problem. He actually found the issue with the yaw/lateral accelerometer sensor. He found it in his truck under the console and shimmed it at a forward sloping angle with some washers. He claimed it solved the abs/stability control problem. Now if I could only find the sensor in our trucks I would give it a try. I just ripped up the console and found a module mounted to the body underneath. I unplugged it and turned the ignition on. The stability track and air bag lights came on and indicated service. I then googled the part number and it says it is the airbag control module. I kind of thought it could be as the plugs were yellow. So now back to locating the yaw sensor. I looked under the seats and thought it could be under there somewhere but not really wanting to remove the seats.

This is after my 6" install with 33" trail grapplers. I have now switched to 35" toyo's Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The 4.10 gears were well worth it. The truck is more drivable with the lift and big tires. The gears made it feel like a stock truck again. I have only tried the canned tunes on my diablo programmer, but from what I read online a bunch of times is it is worth getting a custom tune. I have been thinking of doing one. The canned tunes are better than stock with performance and a little more power.

The old one? No regear. I did regear the new one I am having problems with to 4.10. The issue started before the gears and the tuner seems to correct that change. If you change gears, but don't reprogram the ABS light and others would be on all the time while driving. This issue is only while making sharp turns at normal speed.

I had a 2.5" level on my 13 with 33x12.5 trail grapplers and had no issues. Tuned truck with same tuner I have now. Just set tire height to about 32.5 and speedo was on no issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Who knows, it doesn't make sense. Are you running the Zone lift with your 34s? Maybe it's my tuner, but there are some having the same issue with no tune. I will adjust my tune to not adjust for the larger wheels and tires. My speedo will be off during this test but I want to see if the problem still occurs. It all boils down to needing the correct height of your tires programmed in the ECm so the abs and stabilitrak will not flip out. If it is my tuner not doing the job on this truck I will change to another one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After you had mentioned before one of the guys put his stock wheels back on and didn't have an issue, I got to thinking about that. I am running an aftermarket 20x9 with the Toyo open Country AT2 295/65r20 tire. Toyo's site claims the tire is a 35" tire, but that is actually true when the tire is inflated to it's max 80psi and not mounted on a truck putting weight on it. The tire is actually a 34" tire when I measured at 42psi. I am using the Diablo Intuner to tune my gears and new tire height over the 31" stock tires. In the tuner i was actually inputting 34" in the tire size section to adjust the speedometer, odometer, etc. There is a section you can actually punch in 295/65r20, but that throws off the speedometer slightly as it thinks it is a true 35" tire. So over the weekend I had my tires rotated and the alignment checked against the recommended Zone specs one more time. Everything was within 1/1000's of the specs so I know it isn't the alignment. Before I left the shop, I adjusted my tune and punched in 295/60/r20 (not 65 to bring it closer to 34") and drove it home. The truck did MUCH better on turns at intersections and in parking lots. It still has the stabilitrak kick on once in awhile but not like it was. So I am thinking the system is that sensitive and was looking for a stock width of about 8.5". These Toyo's are about 11" wide and without all the dimensions punched in, it was throwing it off. However, since it is still doing it occasionally, I am still going to need to talk to the Zone engineers. I just want to try and cover everything I can on my end so they can eliminate all they can.

Thanks! Yeah, I have been following this site myself the past week or so. I just can't seem to find anyone who has posted much about a 2014 that had the standard mirrors and added these DQS mirrors. I saw you had a 2014 and thought maybe we have/had a similar setup. Really wish I knew what would work if I just plug those mirrors in my 2014 what would work without any modification. I only have heat and power adjust so I am assuming that is it.

Do you recall what worked with plug and play? I am going this route and even found a manual fold and power fold set. I do not have power fold, but I hear you may be able to add the switch and maybe swap a harness. Wasn't too crazy about rewiring but will if I have to.

That makes since as I called a Zone rep about an hour away that installs these kits. He mentioned the tie rod cut needs to be just right. I also called Zone and they think their engineers may be able to help with me supplying some measurements of before and after, etc. I have my first alignment paperwork from the shop who installed the kit and from a dealership who checked the alignment and reset the steering sensor. I am going t have a shop check it one more time and I am going to give them the paperwork and the specs from the Zone kit manual for them to compare and see if they can come up with something. if not, I am going to have GM run diags on my speed sensors. I am not pulling any codes with my scanner though, so hopefully not a faulty sensor and I do not get any lights on any other time than sharp turns. The shop also said you also need to have all the cuts just right. I remember the shop who installed my kit mention afterwards they had to do a lot of cutting and grinding for this kit.