langston1726

Not cheap but both Kooks and ARH longtubes are more of a mid-length header design. I know they are considered longtubes but the Y-pipe doesn’t appear to hang any lower then the stock manifolds and y-pipe. My Texas Speed headers are tucked under the frame but you can see the driver side highflow cat hanging below the frame.

I’m guessing they’ll be some mixed opinions on this but I think as long as you’re not doing WOT pulls, it will probably be okay. Headers will typically make the truck run a little lean with the added air flow. I ran mine untuned for a couple weeks after installing headers with no issues. You will have a check engine light though. It might be worth asking what your tuner thinks. Btw that Corsa is going to be very loud with headers and no cats. I’ve heard a Vibrant resonator will really help calm down the rasp and clap. Then again you may want it loud.

Agreed. I’ve tried about a dozen different set ups. Gotten tired of all of them eventually. Currently running a 14” Magnaflow with a 6” Totalflow resonator in front and a J-pipe right after to knock some of the drone down. This is my favorite set up so far now that it’s broke in. Deep, throaty with just a touch of rasp and little to no drone. Sorry don’t mean to hijack the thread.

Yes 3”. Exhaust sound is pretty subjective. My opinion on too raspy might be your perfect. Here is a cold start. Loud at first but gets whisper quiet after about 45 seconds

I have the Corsa made GM performance muffler I’d sell you. It is slightly quieter then Corsa’s Touring sound level. It is the same system they put on the Sierra All Terrain X. It sounded great and had absolutely no drone but was just a little too raspy on mine with longtubes. I have just the muffler or the entire cat back if you’re interested. This fits 2014-2018 Crewcabs SB or double cabs. The catback comes with a GMC etched tip. No idea where you’re located or what shipping would be though. I’m located in Tulsa, Oklahoma. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/571743634294256/

Sold locally. I have 2 Borla Xr1 mufflers up forsale. One is a Sportsman and the other is a Multicore. Both sounded great but were just a little too loud with longtubes for my taste. The multicore seemed get a little bit louder then the Sportsman above 3000 rpm. Both are 304 stainless Sportsman pn 40943 $110 shipped 17” overall length Oval case. Used but in good condition. Couple of small dents in the case but otherwise in great condition. Slot cut inlet/exit for clamp fit. Multicore pn 400372 $200 shipped 17” overall length Oval case I had this on the truck for 2 days. Slot cut inlet/exit for clamp fit. No Borla branding on this one. Not sure why Borla chose not to brand their multicores.

So far, I’ve only seen some surface rust on the hangers of these after a few years. I am in Oklahoma so the roads aren’t covered in salt for months like further north.

Thought I’d throw this out there for anyone looking for cat back alternatives and not wanting to spend $600 or more for a name brand stainless system. Sure you can just do a muffler swap or delete for much cheaper. My only issue with that is the factory pipe size on the 5.3s is 2.75” diameter so you’ll either have to use reducers or have someone weld it in place with a 3” or 2.5” muffler. I’m running a 3” Dynomax intermediate pipe and tailpipe. These are both direct fit on the 2014-2018 crew cab shortbed trucks and will use all factory exhaust hangers. Not sure on the double cab or standard bed. I’m currently running a Borla extension pipe, 19” Borla ProXs muffler, and an old Corsa pro series tip. The system is all clamped so I’m able to swap mufflers if I get tired of one and want to try something else. You may need to cut the extension pipe depending on the muffler length you decide to run just know you should have roughly a 30”-32” spread between the intermediate pipe and tailpipe. I have Texas Speed longtubes and catted Y pipe but this should bolt up to the factory y pipe. With all of this including clamps and depending on your choice of muffler and tip, you should have less then $400 in a full stainless catback. The Dynomax pipes are both 409 stainless steel and run around $100 each. Here are the part numbers Dynomax intermediate pipe (pn 55608) Dynomax tailpipe (pn 54704) Borla 3” Ext pipe 304 stainless choose one ($50-$65 each) (Part number includes 1 clamp) (pn 60564) 21” length (pn 60556) 15” length (pn 60554) 11” length You’ll need to order 3 clamps if you decide not to have it welded. Hope this helps someone out.

Sounds great I just ordered the 400372 multicore which is a 17” oval case, I believe yours are 21”. Hope it’s not too loud with my TSP headers. Sounds like these get pretty rowdy on some throttle. Any drone with these? Currently running a 19” Borla ProXs. It sounds pretty good but looking for just a little bit more rasp.

Whats the part number on your Xr1? Got any more sound clips?

Looks damn good man. Tastefully done

315/70/17 BFG KO2s I don’t remember what it was stock but i went from 40.5” to 40.25”. Still almost an inch higher then the rear but it’s hard to tell on these trucks. Did yours settle at all or did you make any adjustments?

Replaced my 3” level with some Fox 2.5s with Resi’s. Lost about .25” of lift but diggin how these ride. I may adjust them down the road but it doesn’t rub and still sits level so I’ll leave it for now.

Do these require trimming of your existing lug nuts?

I think taking the resonator off will open it up just enough with that muffler.

Do you have longtubes?

set up is in the description. I have cats but sound shouldn’t be much different without.

That is about what I’d expect from a dealer. $6500 for a rebuilt trans is insane. You could get a built trans for that kind of cheese. I would definitely go to a few reputable independent shops for quotes. You might get lucky and find a low mileage drop out and just have a shop do the R&R. Yes there are plenty of trans failures on these trucks. It just happens. Lots of variables including some out of your control.

Location?

Looks like a 40 series Flowmaster to me.

I’m sorry. What type of response were you expecting? Take them off and put the manifolds back on. Sounds like fitment is a problem unless you plan on beating the areas in where it’s rubbing. Keep up that attitude though. It will take you places. Btw your videos still aren’t working.

Videos aren’t working. Most likely hitting frame under load. I haven’t heard much about DNA headers on the newer trucks but I’m pretty sure they along with a few others are made you know where. Not to rub salt in a fresh wound but for $1400, you’re almost at what a set of Kooks or an ARH system would cost.

Just a quick follow up. I had the driveline shop take care of this. Ended up only needing bearings. They replaced all bearings, seals, and the yoke for $1080. Good as new. Hopefully won’t have to deal with that again for a little while. He did say they put 85w140 gear oil in it which I’m not crazy about since GM calls for 75W85. I’m running almost a 35” tire so it may be better off.

Good to know. I’m okay with it as long as it’s not hurting anything. I don’t mind the cold starts either but wondered if maybe I had a faulty temp sensor somewhere. Thanks for the info.