Everything posted by cdh7917
Drilling would have been the easier option, but I wasn't too keen on taking a drill bit to a new truck. Since putting in the Retrax, I have also added the rubber GMC bed mat. I carefully measured and cut holes in it for the hoses to pass through.
While my install is on a 2020 2500HD, perhaps it will help. I ran into the same issue you're describing in that the rubber plugs in the bed were above the drains on the Retrax storage piece. I picked up some brass reducer barbs from Home Depot to go from 1/2" to 3/8". Picked up a 10' piece of 3/8" tube too. Reducing to the 3/8" tube allowed me to put the drain hoses through a bed drain hole on each side that is in the floor of the bed, just behind the front wall of the bed. Pro tip - using a hair dryer to warm up the tubing will help you get it into those holes in the truck bed. At room temp, the hose is somewhat stiff.
Thanks for posting the part numbers on this - I ordered the hood nose molding this morning. I was recently talking with my friend who is a painter and he's going to be painting this for me in Dark Sky Metallic.
Maybe this emblem kit is a cross-over part from a Yukon or similar? I don't really know as I don't pay much attention to the SUV side of the house. But, I can tell you with 100% certainty that my regular black emblem kit came with rear emblems that have no alignment pins. The set that came with the lighted emblem has alignment pins. As for your comment re: red tow hooks...I had mine re-powdercoated gloss black on my AT4 HD. I also debadged, so I really don't have much red left except what is left on the Duramax fender emblems.
Yep, and the rear emblems that come with the kit have alignment pins that would need to be nipped off to use on a Multi-Pro tailgate. At least I assume that's what the pins are for. I had already purchased the black emblem kit (long before the lighted black kit was an option) for Multi-Pro and those rear emblems have no alignment pins.
No. I sold my 2020 boards. The first person to inquire had a 2015-2019 model truck. The mounting holes don't line up.
I see you're in Colorado. Mind if I ask who did the paint? It looks great! Way way better than stock!
Funny the timing... one of my wheels arrived with the very slightest of damage on the lip. You had to spend time looking for the spot because it was damn near covered with the tire mounted. I asked for it to be replaced with a new one, and I’m finally having it swapped today. Anyway, the shop ended up selling me back the damaged wheel for $65. Eventually I’ll pick up another matching tire and just rotate 5. And since I changed size from factory, it’ll be nice to have a spare that matches the new size. The factory spare is a 33.x” (275/70/18) on an 18”.
Thanks! If you go with a +0, I think your outer edge/shoulder will rub on the valance when the front wheels are turned inward. And if you don’t rub there, you’re going to for sure have worse rubbing on the liner at full lock. IMHO, +20 is the perfect balance. I had +20 on my 18 2500HD, and +0 on a 2014 1500. +20 is my choice all day. As for tires, I do like the Ridge Grapplers a lot. A nice aggressive looking tire with excellent road manners still. They’re quiet, ride smooth, and track well. Snow performance has been great too. I’ve always run Terra Grappler G2s before, but I’m really happy I decided to switch. I don’t think you’d be disappointed with them. Only drawback is the price at ~$370ish per tire in a 295/65/20.
35x12.5 on stock wheels should have no rubbing, that's true. Many here have done that without issue. I had 295/65/20s installed with Fuel Blitz wheels 20x9, with +20 offset. I didn't concern myself too much with backspacing. Here is a side view. My truck is fully stock on the suspension. I had very, very slight rubbing on the front fender liners, but I was able to resolve that by pinning back the bottom edge of the liner using a zip tie on each side looped around the lower valance/bumper support.
My grill surround is gloss black since I have an AT4. But, on my 2018 2500 Denali, I had the chrome grill surround done as well as the lower chrome valance that was below the front license plate, and also the chrome mirror caps too. Chrome in Colorado looks so horribly terrible after just one winter because of the magnesium-chloride pre-treatment that is applied to roads as an anti-icing agent. The chrome gets tiny tiny pits, then spots, and then looks like it has leprosy! LOL. And that's on both the plastic 'chrome' and actual real chromed metal. Anyway, it didn't look bad at all and I didn't notice any glue or such. If the PPF isn't properly applied you could see some imperfections, but when I noticed that (again on my 2018 painted front bumper), the shop redid their work and recovered the bumper for no charge. As for my tailgate - I plan to replace the plastic trim on the top inner tailgate once I finally remember to order that part (I think it's about $45 USD). As soon as I do that, there would be no indication I ever had my little mishap!
I have quite of a bit of XPEL PPF on my truck. Here's a list: Full front bumper Headlights Fog lights Turn signal lights Grill Surround Full Hood Scoop Full Fenders Door cups Door Edges A pillars B pillarts Front of roof Inside tailgate of the Multi-Pro Tailgate I also have the XPEL ceramic window tint that blocks 98% heat/UV on all windows, along with the sunroof. It makes a big difference. I can't speak to the ceramic coatings they offer. But the PPF and tint has been great. The PPF is self-healing to some extent. I haven't noticed any cases that it got marred/surface scratched, but apparently it will heal itself to reduce the visibility of any blemishes. And a testimonial - I happened to leave my drop hitch installed in my receiver. I lowered both tailgates, and actually climbed in. I have two very small marks on the plastic cap on the tailgate rail. The hitch managed to tear a dime sized hole in the PPF I had on the tailgate. But there was not a lick of any damage on the paint. Not a single spec. It was a relief for such a bone-headed move on my behalf, and I promptly had that piece redone. In Colorado, they treat our roads with sand and grit/gravel mixture. Winters can be very hard on painted and chrome front ends here. It's nealry impossible to keep large gaps between cars on the interstates here, and all that sand gets kicked up from the tires of the vehicles. The XPEL PPF is a must have, IMHO, at least in this location. It's expensive, but these trucks aren't cheap either and I plan to keep this one looking great as long as I own it.
I bought the GMC mudflaps from a GMC dealers on eBay, separately of the purchase of the truck. I also bought my painted fender flares from a local Chevy dealer that I had already been ordering some other parts for me. The front mudflap for the rear wheel also fits without any issue. There is no problem using the GMC mudflaps with the painted flares. The painted flares are an exact match in terms of mounting/fitment to the stock black flares. The lights - I tinted with the below product from Amazon. It's easy to work with, especially since you'll have the lights off with the old flares and can work on them off the truck. You'll want to use a hair dryer too, as it helps the product stretch to form. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQRQ996/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes, that lateral tailgate bracket is in the way. I hadn't seen that update to the instructions, so we did our install slightly different. We cut one of the mounting bracket in half and attached a half on either side of that bracket, spaced outwards from the bracket by a couple inches. To the left of the bracket, there isn't much space and it turned out the bracket half wasn't able to stay attached to the truck. So we picked up some adhesive-backed zip tie mounts and put them under the black end of the light bar only on the driver's side (this is the part on each end that doesn't actually have lights in it and is how the bar is terminated). From there, a simple zip tie has been holding down the end of the light bar without any issues. I'll see if I can get a decent photo to upload. Also, I ordered GMvPart No. : 19418352 from my local Chevrolet dealer. It included everything needed for the install, including the Putco harness. ETA: Was able to get a good picture.
Yes, I have it installed, and so does a friend. Both are 2020 AT4 HD trucks. It’s not hard for the install, but the tailgate must come off. For our installs, we didn’t disconnect wiring for the tailgate. Simply unbolt the tailgate tethers on each side, remove it and lay it on the inside surface with the drivers side half laying on the bed, and the passenger side hanging off the end of the bed. Tailgate removal isn’t a one person job. From there, the light bad has adhesive clips that attach to the truck, and the light bar clips into them. The wiring basically installs a jumper on to each side taillight, using factory style connectors. The reverse wire is separate, but easy. Truly the wiring is plug n’ play. After that, just reinstall the tailgate and reattach the tethers. That’s it. Plan for an hour total, but it’ll probably be less. It’s bright as hell too and worth adding. The reverse lights on the light bar are excellent.
Initially, I thought it wouldn't be something I would use. And it's probably something I will hardly ever use. But, a couple weeks ago I had the chance to use it and it was handy to have. We were returning from snowboarding and got stuck in lovely Colorado traffic on Loveland Pass. Going up the pass, no big deal - just crawl along and stop as needed. Coming down the pass I didn't want to use the brakes much if I could avoid it. I dropped the gear shifter to L1, turned on the exhaust brake, and activated Hill Descent Control. The results were great. The truck crawled downhill, and I only had to apply the brakes when it was time to fully stop. Can't express how badly the traffic in Colorado over-utilizes the out-dated and under-rated infrastructure. While I wouldn't have made it a point to get Hill Descent Control, it came with the AT4 package. Might as well use it...
Go to your home screen on the stereo, where all the icons are showing. You may need to swipe left to access the second screen of icons. On the second screen, there is a "Camera" icon. Select it, and you can choose from any of your cameras. If you're in motion, the camera will only show for 10 seconds.
It is clean for sure. I'm just personally not a fan of the vampire taps on the wires, but that's just me. The diode can be pulled out in seconds, and there is no indication it was ever there. Vampire taps will leave nicks in the insulation of the wires they were used on. As they say, there's more than one way to skin this cat!
This thread should help you. You can go the route of Boost Auto and pay ~$20 or spend a few bucks for twenty diodes from Amazon. The beginning of the thread shows the wire schematic for the brown plug. Instead of using pin 18 for the high beams, I believe I picked up power from pin 22, which is the Park Lamp Relay Control. When doing this, the diode is wedged in the back of the plug. They're directional, allowing current to flow only one way. This allows the parking lights to trigger/power the fog relay, thus turning them on. The easiest way I have found is to take the diode and nip the ends off with wire cutters so they're pointed. Then you can use some tiny needlenose pliers to get it inserted into each pin slot as needed. It sound hard, but it's not at all. You'll want a flashlight/headlamp so you can see what you're doing though. It's dark behind that kick panel on the drivers side.
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