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cdh7917 last won the day on May 30 2016

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  1. https://www.gmcertifiedparts.com/oem-parts/gm-molding-pkg-84545372 That is a link for the Dark Sky Metallic ones. I searched on accessories.gmc.com first. Once I had the part number, I just Googled ‘gmc 84545372’ and found them from a few places. $512ish was the best I found. You can do the same thing for the other colors too, hopefully you can find similar deals.
  2. Some new pictures of my 2500 AT4 HD, taken this evening. The Dark Sky Metallic is such a beautiful color. These are after a complete wash. All Adam's Polishes products, and I can't say enough good things about their stuff. Anyway, some subtle changes - full debadging (minus GMC badges), Red tow hooks powered black, Amp Research Powersteps, Retrax tonneau.
  3. I believe you also need to enable the auto folding feature thru the vehicle settings on the radio display for this to work.
  4. If you’re doing the Costco deal, it’s supplier pricing, at a minimum. The dealer should produce the build sheet for the truck that will also show the supplier pricing. On my truck, it was a little under $6k. Combined with my myGMC rebate, it was a little under $7k. There really shouldn’t be much haggling, unless you’re trying to get lower than supplier pricing, or trying for a better trade allowance. Eventually, you’ll arrive at the best deal that can be made. That’s when you need to ask yourself if the trip to St Louis/Laura is worth the difference.
  5. PM sent. The new truck is great. My 2018 was awesome too, but the 2020 has been better in every way. Not a smidge of buyer's remorse on this one!
  6. Heh, I am also in Monument. I bought my 2020 AT4 2500HD from Ferguson GMC, on Academy Blvd. In the past, I bought from Alpine North, up in Denver.
  7. Great deal - "Everybody said, go to Medved!" (now that you have the jingle stuck in your head...) I also live in the Colorado Springs area and found that the deals here are available, you just have to look for them a little more. My buddy went to Laura for his 2020 AT4 and got a great deal. I bought mine from a different Colorado Springs GMC dealer. I happened to find it when it was in transit and they ordered it in the color I wanted, with every option I would have wanted, and one I didn't want - the console vault. Lucky for me, the console vault didn't come in with the truck, so when it came in I just picked it up w/o install. I have it for sale, in the box still if you're interested (shameless for-sale plug!). Anyway, I went to the dealer before it was in and test drove a 2020 Denali. The next day I took my 2018 down for trade appraisal and put down a deposit on the 2020 AT4 that was inbound. They offered me $50k for my 2018 Denali L5p, which I accepted with the understanding that I might shop around my trade. I went to a local Mazda dealer which is a KBB Cash Offer dealer and sold it to them outright for $54,600, which nearly doubled the savings in sales tax had I just traded it in. I ended up skipping two payments and being truckless for 3 weeks. It was worth it though. I told the local GMC dealer I wasn't above making the trip to St Louis to see Laura and right off the bat they offered me supplier pricing because of my military service. It also just happened that I got a rebate offer from myGMC for $1k off a new vehicle purchase made by 9/3/19 - after some transit delays, I took delivery on 9/3/19. So, my original sticker price with options was an even $78k; supplier was $72,824. With my $1k rebate, I was down to $71,824 plus 5.3% tax. OTD I was at $75,630.67, less my deposit and my additional down payment. And, I didn't have to bother with a 10 hour drive home from St Louis....
  8. Good to know. The 27mm difference would be about 1.06” pushed outwards at each wheel compared to stock. When I look at the space around my stock tires, it looks like it would clear easily.
  9. Would you say there is enough room for the same size tire if the wheel was pushed out 1”? I really want to go with 295/65/20s and now I’m considering some Fuel wheels that are 20x9 +20 offset. That would push each wheel 1” outwards. I’m not interested in changing the suspension, except for Bilsteins when they’re available. Stock ride height is perfect IMHO.
  10. Yeah, but the jumper or diode method is better than the Boost Auto method. For one, it's 100% reversible. Second, once it's reversed, it doesn't leave two of your truck's wire insulations nicked once the wire taps are removed. And third, the Boost Auto method is ~$20. Diodes and/or jumper wires are less than a buck...
  11. Bump. Somebody wants this, I just know it!
  12. That's interesting. I haven't had this issue and I have my wheel as low and extended as possible. Keep us posted!
  13. No, I just checked. The silver bag that the harness is in has no labels. The harness itself has no labels either. The only part number is the light bar itself - GM# 19418352. The harness basically inserts a jumper into each sides' taillight harness underneath the truck. The other end of the harness is a 4 pin trailer connector with a separate reverse wire. The light bar then connects to the 4 pin trailer plug and the reverse wire. It's very easy to install and the instructions that come with the light bar come with very clear pictures and descriptions.
  14. I picked my tail light bar up from the local dealer this past weekend. The Putco harness was included in the box, in its own silver bag. Waiting for my neighbor to get back from vacation to help remove/reinstall my tailgate so I can put it on.
  15. I believe it's a T20 screw holding the lights in, but I was using a T15 as that's what I had out to remove my wheel housing liners and mudflaps. It was a little wobbly, so I'm pretty sure it's a T20. If you use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a T20 bit, you can pop open the hood and reach behind each fender on the front to get those out. Slide the red secondary lock backwards on each clip, then depress the release tab to pull the connector off the lights. The rears, if you remove the fender liners might be able to be accessed and removed. I didn't check when I did my swap to the painted flares. If you have to remove the fender flares, you'll want to have extra clips on hand for reinstalling them. Some will undoubtedly break.
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