There is a very similar discussion about this same issue on another forum. Members reporting the same issue, but those that are not having the issue have noted that their iPhones are connected to the truck via WiFi. Bluetooth may be the limitation here.
Well, I have cancelled my original order and placed a new one at another dealer. The new dealer has HD AT4 allocations. New order placed on 2/15/21. 3500 AT4 SRW standard box. All the same options as before with the addition of dual alternators. Biggest change though was the switch from Pacific Blue Metallic to Cayenne Red Tintcoat. The new dealer had a 2500 Denali in PBM. I'm glad to have seen it because it left me unimpressed. They had a 1500 Elevation and Denali Yukon in CRT. It's a fantastic color. Already sold my 2020 2500 AT4 in Dark Sky Metallic. I'm truckless for at least the next 2-3 months.
I placed an order Monday (2/8/21) for a well equipped AT4 3500 SRW standard box. So far my dealer has gotten allocations, but they are not for AT4 trim level for HD trucks, and that includes the allocation release today. Guess I’ll be waiting until next Thursday and hoping the order can be submitted to GM.
GMC 2500 AT4 standard bed here - I have about 12k miles on Nitto Ridge Grappler 295/65/20 on Fuel wheels with a +20 offset. Factory wheels are +44 offset. My suspension is stock w/exception of Bilstein 5100 shocks which offer nothing for height. I had very very slight contact on the front liners, which I pinned back with a zip tie on each side. So, that means my wheels are 24mm pushed outwards, or 0.945". On stock wheels, I don't think you'd have any rubbing at all. I recently ordered a 3500 AT4 SRW standard bed truck. I'll be running the same size on it too. Along with +20 offset again. I'll stick with it cause I know it works and it looks awesome too.
Are those the Duraflaps? I am considering them for my rears to protect my trailers when towing. The GMC mudflap offer is junk - form over function. OP - I noticed an occasional chip on my lower doors. I had the bottoms of the doors covered with Xpel clear paint protection film. It has been a big help and I no longer worry about it.
I am in a similar situation. I run Fuel Blitz wheels 20x9 with a +20 offset. My tires are Nitto Ridge Grapplers (295/65/20). I have a full clear bra done on the truck, and I've actually added more to it for side protection as well. I had all 4 doors done from the lower crease down to the bottom. It seems to help with the sand and gravel that is common in Colorado for winter road treatment. Cost may be affected by product. Xpel is great film and that's what I have used for all of mine. Hexis is another great option too, that is less expensive and excellent quality.
My friend and I both have identical 2020 AT4 2500HD w/ the Duramax. We're withing a few thousand miles of each other, me around 14k, him around 17k. Both trucks are doing the steering clunk/click when going straight. You can wobble the steering wheel back and forth a few degrees and it will consistently do it, regardless of outside temp or truck operating temp. From reading this, it sounds like we're both having issues with the intermediate shaft. Going to be making an appointment to hopefully have it fixed, and if not at least get it documented. It's a major annoyance, and it's amplified 100% when you're driving on dirt/washboard roads.
I wouldn’t be surprised if stock wheels and a couple turns on the keys gave you enough clearance to have no rub. Like CRApex said, the problem with the new 2020+ trucks is that since there is less rake than 2019 and older, it’s easy to put the front end higher than the rear with too much adjustment.
I can’t say cause I didn’t even try, but just from looking at things as they are now, I think on stock wheels you’d likely be ok. Not sure if the extra width of the tire would make contact on the UCA, but it’s only a 20mm wider tire than stock and the 20mm is split between each side of the rim, so it’s only 10mm wider in each side. The rubbing was very minor that I initially had. Certainly nothing to get too concerned with. To fix it, I cut two 1/4” vertical slots at the very bottom of the front of the liner (just above the 90° lip at the bottom of the liner) with about 1-1.5” of space between the slits. From the back side, thread in a black zip tie towards the wheel in one slit, then thread it through the other slit back towards the front bumper. There is a round bar that is a lower bumper support and it sits just in front of the liner. I looped the tie around it and tightened it until I was clear; it didn’t need much. It just barely pulls the liner away from the wheel and toward the front bumper, and only at the very bottom. When done with a black zip tie, it isn’t even noticeable and is hard to spot even if you’re looking for it. The liners are very durable, so I have no concern about the tie tearing through or ripping the slits longer. I’m coming up on almost a year with it done, and I’d do it again. I really didn’t want to turn my keys or mess with the suspension at all.
Realize I'm a little late to this, but I've been running 296/65/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers since last November (2019). I have Fuel 20x9 +20 offset wheels. Only minor rubbing on the front of the fender liners, which were easy enough to pin back with some zip ties which aren't noticeable. My suspension is stock with exception of the shocks, but they have no bearing on the height.
Your truck looks great with the black trim that you're adding! I had my red hooks re-powdered black and it made a huge difference. Yours would look better black IMHO. To me, they look like nipple rings on your truck!
Drilling would have been the easier option, but I wasn't too keen on taking a drill bit to a new truck. Since putting in the Retrax, I have also added the rubber GMC bed mat. I carefully measured and cut holes in it for the hoses to pass through.
While my install is on a 2020 2500HD, perhaps it will help. I ran into the same issue you're describing in that the rubber plugs in the bed were above the drains on the Retrax storage piece. I picked up some brass reducer barbs from Home Depot to go from 1/2" to 3/8". Picked up a 10' piece of 3/8" tube too. Reducing to the 3/8" tube allowed me to put the drain hoses through a bed drain hole on each side that is in the floor of the bed, just behind the front wall of the bed. Pro tip - using a hair dryer to warm up the tubing will help you get it into those holes in the truck bed. At room temp, the hose is somewhat stiff.
Thanks for posting the part numbers on this - I ordered the hood nose molding this morning. I was recently talking with my friend who is a painter and he's going to be painting this for me in Dark Sky Metallic.
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