Jump to content

southern_sierra

Member
  • Posts

    374
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by southern_sierra

  1. http://www.autozone.com/1/products/24647-leaf-spring-clamp-kit-13-1401a-superior-automotive-13-1401a.html I have no pic. Simple install 15 mins.
  2. No particular order. To be honest I think tightening the u-blots did it for me.
  3. I installed the u-bolt clamps today on the leaf springs. I have them at 5 1/2 inches in front of the axle itself not the blocks. Since my vibs are gone just wanted to see if I could tell any difference with them installed since I already had them. The first thing I notice was the ride, it rides much better now. The town I live in the street are patched everywhere. Going over expansion joints in town 15 to 20 mph before would jar the hell out of the dash now its about half what it was. Took it out on the hwy on a 4 lane where its rough and in that area I always ride in the left lane because its so rough, so got in the right lane and it rode so good that it was no problem. It really surprised the hell out of me I don't know if it changes the spring rate or what. All I know is all the jarring I had before is gone. I was planning on changing out my front shocks with the Bilstein 6112 but not now. Best 16 dollars I ever spent.
  4. Its just the stock shocks, they are very bouncy on the highway at speed where the road has dips and stiff off road.
  5. I said nothing about tightening lug nuts. I torque my lug nuts at 140 lbs as the manual states. Most all vehicles have different torque specs for wheels, my expedition is 150lbs and 4 Runner 83lbs. The factory torque on the axle u-bolts is not tight enough in my opinion. I have been pulling wrenches all my life, but thats just how I feel not to say you or anybody here should do that. As far as the cab mounts they will only tighten down to a point and thats it you can't move them any more, there is no give to them they are either tight or loose if you try it you will see what i'am talking about. One of the two has stopped my Vibration. I also carry about 350 to 400lbs all the time with tool boxes so my vibration could have been affected different from a truck with no weight in the bed.
  6. Did not use my torque wrench. Used a 1/2 pull handle and tightened as tight as i could.
  7. Ever since I tightened my rear axle u-bolts which where not very tight to begin with and loosened all the cab mount bolts and re-tighten them, my Vibration is gone that I had between 75 and 85. I have put about 700 miles on the truck since. When I tightened the u-bolts I did so until they felt like they were starting to twist or feel resistance, that way you know their tight. Just thought I would share this maybe it would help yours.
  8. Not sure about the price Iam thinking about 750 for the pair will available.
  9. The 6112 is a shock and spring package not sure about the pro comp. The 6112 spring will be softer than the oem spring
  10. Anyone have a GM part number for the protector
  11. And none taken Paxtonman
  12. This is the first truck out of 17 that I have ever had to have the tires road forced balanced. This goes right along with the frame and body mounts being to stiff and not absorbing any mild vibrations so the wheels have to be perfect not to feel anything.
  13. I believe this will translate to the trucks. Some of us have suspected this. http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2015/12/31/fullsize-gm-suvs-have-problem-that-making-owners-sick/?intcmp=features
  14. My small town dealer seeing problems too. And I'am a crusty old farmer.
  15. Just saw this posted frame and body mounts to stiff on GM SUVs. As alot of us have thought this is the trucks problem. http://www.foxnews.c...intcmp=features
  16. I agree 100%, I wouldn't trust the dealers to put air in my tires. If I can't do it myself its major or has to be hooked up to a computer and then I will try to watch them. I'am a little OCD, but we bought them we will just have to deal with it or get rid of the truck.
  17. I have owned many trucks (Ford, Chevy, Toyota) and none of them let smells in the cab like grass being cut food being cooked gas fumes diesel fumes and so on while the a/c was in recirculate mode like this 14 does even the previous model gm's did not let the smells in. I never passed out in any of the other trucks I owned. Whats really bad is to get behind an old car and all you can smell is exhaust fumes now I might pass out from that because its bad enough to make you feel sick. It tells you in the owners manual that to keep out unwanted smells to push the recirculate button the keep them out. Another design flaw by gm. All trucks have vents on the back of the cab that are hidden from sight they will let out pressures. On the 2014 the vents are located on the back of the cab on each side about 8" down from the top of the bed.
  18. Try clamping in front of the axle 6". Just curious I have read somewhere before that it helps with the driveline clunk, never know might work. I was planning on trying it but haven't got any clamps yet. I have tighten the u-bolts and loosened the body mounts and retighten. It seemed to have helped hasn't shook as bad since its very slight now and only sometimes.
  19. Tundra could get a refresh in 2017 with a possible diesel and will be redesigned in 2019.
  20. I have been putting up with this for over a year now. Could be fixed easily with a BCM program but GM does not won't it fixed. Only truck out of 17 I have owned that does this.
  21. Take the the deal on the buy back and dive your new 16 to the nearest Ford, Ram or Toyota dealer and trade it.
  22. I was wondering the same thing. I read somewhere can't remember where to place the clamps 6 inches in front of the rear axle and would help or stop the drive line clunk. Not sure how it will affect the ride.
×
×
  • Create New...