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SouthpawHD

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SouthpawHD last won the day on February 4 2016

SouthpawHD had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    WI
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2018 Sierra SLT 1500, 4x4 Z71, crew cab

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  1. Do you know why you don't have "sucked in by semis"? Because you're trailer and truck are properly packed (weight distributed properly) and you're weight distribution hitch is set up to match your truck height and trailer size and includes some measure of anti-sway. That is ever so important when pulling a larger trailer on a 1/2 ton. Well done. But 70 is just a little too fast, likely your trailer tires are limited to 65MPH. Something to look at anyway.
  2. Can it be done? Yep. Will it be comfortable and easy at highway speeds and wind? Nope. In this picture I towed it 55 miles, but the trailer was empty and the truck was virtually empty too. There is no way I would want to tow it fully loaded with gear. Now that being said, and as another poster said, if you're towing only once and a while (I tow that trailer only twice all year to and from my lake lot) and it's relatively local, it would probably be fine. But pack light and have a really good weight-distribution hitch and go slow.
  3. Putco 60” LED light bar. Love it so far, wicked bright.
  4. I asked this question above, but I am also contemplating going 285/55/20 instead of the 60 tire to avoid any potential rubbing. That tire is about a 32" tall tire, so only 1" taller than stock. Would that 285/55 be a better option to avoid rubbing and potential UCA issues? I really do not want to get into something and then have to throw a bunch more money trying to fix it because it was the wrong tire choice.
  5. I'm sure this has been asked, but I'm lost and a little confused yet. For my 2018 Sierra 1500, I am going to add GY DuraTracs, 275/60/20 (a 33" tire) and a 1.5"-2.0" front level kit (Rough Country). Do I need to do anything with the UCA?
  6. I don't think a carport with a canvas/tarp on it would hold up to much snow (outside of the Quonset hut style shown above), you would really want metal. My local craigslist has a lot of these DIY kits out there for only a few thousand bucks.
  7. ^^^^ Looks like no harm, no foul. Just a learning lesson. And pretty sure we've all done something and have gotten lucky....
  8. Did you get a 3500? Because pulling a rig that size I would imagine your pin weight is up there.
  9. Just to reiterate what others have said, these trucks pull great. I pulled my travel trailer to Yellowstone last summer, around 7,500 pounds loaded + truck full of gear and family, and pulled through the mountains just fine. Only 1 time I could not maintain the speed limit.
  10. Right. But until GM actually thinks through that these trucks do some towing, there aren't too many options. Now that being said, these hitches are part of the frame and the chances of them falling off are rather slim. And even if they did, the safety brake cable only needs a little tension to be set off. And the slightest dragging on the road might just be enough in most cases.
  11. My safety brake cable has a snap link on it, so I just attach it to the eyebolt. Ideally I think the safety cable should be attached to frame somewhere, by I couldn't locate a good spot.
  12. I used two 5/8" quick links from Tulsa Chain, rated for 8,100 pounds each. I then attached an eye bolt through the bottom of the hitch to hook up the safety brake cable (this idea was from forum member jhplak325).
  13. GM female plugs are known to have loose connections from time to time. On your trailer plug, pinch the trailer brake plugs closer together using a small pliers and you should be all set.
  14. Great price. Wonder how they are compared to the GM ones.
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