JRL1164

2014 with 13K.

Man I got a soft spot for a regular cabs.

Thanks, looks great.

Level?

I feel like this color scratches easily. Don't get me wrong I love the color and with a good coat a wax hides a lot of the scratches. I'm not certain if it's the color or if it's the way they paint them now.

Great looking truck! What tire pressure you running? Not sure how to go from a P tire to a LT tire.

Where are you located? They're available where I live. Actually about to put that size on my truck. 275/70R18

Alright after reading the majority of this and doing some math, I'd like some opinions. I wanna raise the front of the truck and maintain the rake of the truck for hauling and towing. Right now completely stock she sits at 36" up front and 38.5" in the rear. I will be putting 275/70R18 after this is all said and done which is a 33" tire. Stock is 31.5". So I'd be gaining .75" from the tires alone. Well if I got with a 2" level from RC I should be 36+.75+2= 38.75" front and 38.5+.75=39.25" rear with a total of .5" of rake. With 2.5" level with 2" block in the rear: 36+.75+2.5= 39.25" front with 38.5+.75+2-1.25=40" rear with .75" of rake. With 2.5" level with 3" block in the rear: front is the same at 39.25" and 38.5+.75+3-1.25=41" rear with 1.75" of rake. I'm thinking with the 2.5" front and 3" rear block I'll be able to achieve the height that I want. All measurements are done from ground to fender. But with a 3" block in the rear do I need to change out the rear shocks? I have no experience with level kits or anything like that, so I'm really guessing. Any thoughts? And if you got pictures of that set up that would be awesome.

Yep, just did this with my truck and works like I wanted it. I did find out if you have it off when you start the truck and return it to auto it will stay off until you turn it off. Then when you restart it they come back on. If they off when you start it and say you want to turn them back to auto say if its raining, then you would go from off to auto and back to off and auto and it turns it back on. The off position by removing the spring doesn't make it a true off unless its in. But you just have to remember that its wired/programmed to be a toggle switch not and actual on and off. But it worked best for me, cause I didn't want to rewire or cut any wires. Plus I can return it to stock when/if I choose to do so.

I know this is old but has anybody tried what EbonyMacGyver has done or know of a more permanent solution. Not very electrically inclined.

They got me too.