gmckenzie

I've got a quick question. I have a 2015 SLE (1500) NHT with DPN. From all I can see after 2 years of winter use in Canada, these are not heated. I know my build sheet shows heated mirrors, but then the NHT package replaces them and it also does not mention heat. I'd like heat and power fold as well as everything I have now. Puddle lights would be a nice addition as well. Is this doable? If I knew how to attach pictures, I'd give the RPO codes.

So, what are you doing with your portable fish finder at the back of your truck?????? Yup. The suction cup for the fish finder sensor works like a hot damn and getting the center cap out. Thanks for the suggestion.

I've got some gorilla tape I'll try. It is only 1 wheel I have to deal with so not a big deal if I have to take it off. Not putting any back on until I'm happy. But I do see I need to paint the edge of the cap better than I did, so it is a good thing I slapped it on. I'm going to paint in the GMC with colour matched touch up paint. Going to do the badges at the same time.

Ditto. Even charges in an Otterbox. Sometimes it does move off the pad though. But I have the bench seat. I'm not sure the phone fits in the bucket seat console. I know my last phone (Note 4) didn't fit in the bucket console but did in the bench console.

Thanks. I bought a set of picks and will try (carefully), or might try the tape. I have a feeling I will be taking the wheel off though. I just wanted to see if my paint job matched the powder coating.

Can you remove the stock GMC wheel center cap without removing the wheel? Did a dumb thing and put one on but am not finished painting it. I'm thinking I could get in there with a dental pick or somthing. Don't want to scratch the wheel as I just got it powder coated and I'm painting the centers to match.

Doesn't that just mean that the reverse lights will come on with the cargo lights AND the cargo lights will come on with the reverse lights? Is there an issue doing this?

I'd rather have the blue to go with the exterior colour of my truck.

Wow. The 2001 injectors got extra coverage due to all the issues they had with them. Surprised the newer models (which had far less issues) would be excluded.

The concern is when the motor doesn't heat up enough to burn off the blow by in the oil. Oil becomes acidic and eats away at things. Also it tends to gum up the valves when not hot. Difference is that a gas motor will heat up pretty quickly and a diesel won't. Leave either idling in the driveway and the gas will get up to temp, and the diesel will not. Now mine was a 2001 so things may be different now, but I do know mine would puff black for a few minutes when I pushed it after not towing it for a month or so. In the winter, it would be worse as I would never get to normal operating temps. My commute is about 2.5 miles and the truck just couldn't warm up in the winter at all. I'd have to go for a drive just to get the truck warmed up. I loved my diesel for towing. I just don't tow enough for it to make sense for me.

Diesel are great for towing, no question. If you plan to tow a lot, diesel is the answer. But if you plan to commute everyday with the vehicle, do short runs, stop and go, the diesel will not like it. They need to be worked for their own sake. I parked my diesel for the last couple of winters I owned it and drove beaters. The thing wouldn't come close to operating temps on my commute and would start coughing black smoke at times. Diesel is more money up front, fuel can be more expensive, maintenance is a little more and if something breaks, it can be more to fix. If you do go diesel, check the trucks payload. On a 3/4 ton, it can be in the 2,300 lb range vs over 3K for gas. Honestly, if I wanted diesel, it'd be 1 ton only.

My trailer (Cougar 30RKS) has a rated dry weight of 6,762. Loaded without water, I hit it's max weight rating of 8,200. But my wife brings a lot of scrapbooking stuff camping I'm pulling with a Max trailering package. So I have a tow rating of 10,800, and consider it COMPLETELY irrelevant. You will run out of payload long before you run out of trailer capacity. In my case, I have the 7,600 GVW and my truck weighed in at 7,540 loaded for 2 weeks holidays. So I was very close to the limit. Estimate the trailer weight based on the loaded (dry plus carrying capacity) weight. Figure tongue weight of 12.5% (middle of the range) and add 100 lbs for the hitch ( I have the same one and it's not light). Compare that to the trucks payload capacity on the yellow sticker on the door jam. Whatever is left (if anything) is what you have for whatever you weigh over 150, plus all passengers, gear etc. in the truck. In short, I really doubt the Suburban will be able to do it. If you get a 1500, make sure it is the NHT package (either 5.3 or 6.2). While I am at my limit, I am happier with this truck for all the non-towing driving I do and do not miss having a 2500. I had a 2001 2500 with a Duramax and it was a harsher ride and didn't suit my daily commute (~3.5 kms). But it was a better tow vehicle. Some hills I am now limited to 80 kmh where with the diesel I could do 110. Not sure if the 6.2 would make a lot of difference there, but as I bought an lower trim level truck, I didn't have the option. I live in BC, Canada so I know all about hills etc.

I tow a Cougar 30RKS. Weight (dry plus carrying) is 8,200. Loaded up I am still under my trucks GVW (by 60 pounds) and under both axle weights. I also use a 4 pt hitch. Went from a 2001 Duramax for much the same reason. I don't tow a lot and wanted something nice for my short commute. I've pulled through Banff, and Jasper and had no real issues. A bit bouncy where the road had heaved, but I'm thinking some air bags will settle that out. You will be fine.

????? It shouldn't. BTW, I find the V4 mode less annoying since I started running mid-grade fuel.

So I bought these. http://www.usa.philips.com/c-p/12841B2/vision-led-exterior-lighting Are they as good as the ones in the picture above? I could not find any other 921 Philips LED's at the local Lordco and just not sure if they will be as bright as possible. My intent is to wire the reverse lights into the cargo lights (with the diode) so I have more light when hitching up the trailer in the dark. Thanks.

Thanks.

I'd just like to do the cargo and reverse lights. So 3 bulbs, correct?

They do 2 different things. If you like the way it shifts in TH, use it but try the M5 as well to stop the V4 mode.

Just know that if you shift to M6, the AFM is turned on again. But in M5 it stays off. So all you lose is the second OD. I just wish there was a way for it to go into M5 by default.

If you put it in manual mode and M5 it turns off the AFM so you don't go into V4 mode. I find the V4 mode shudders, almost as if I'm lugging the motor, when driving in town. I don't like it so drive in M5 most of the time in the city.

Can it be made to fit is the question.

Someone locally is selling a Retrax for a 2013 shortbox chevy for $250. Would it be hard to make it fit a 2015? I have an email to him to confirm the year and box size, but if it's the shortbox, then the 2 are the same length. Is it impossible to make it work?

I ran it to the pink connector from the idea in post 98. Easy to see which wire to use there.

Gonna pick one up and add it this weekend.

34'4" from hitch to bumper. Add 2" if I pull the tray out at the rear for bikes or whatever. 2010 Cougar 30RKS Fully loaded it tips the scale at 8,200 lbs. Glad they have a max trailering package. Also, just an FYI that there was not a cloud in the sky when I took the picture. There was, however, smoke from the Washington state fires.