FWIW I had an issue whereby my SLT heater would not turn off after a period of many trailer hitch 7-pin plug use. I was on a road trip at the time and just pulled the fuse to avoid swamp arse. Dealer just replaced fuse after the trip and all seemed fine. There may be other seat heater threads here not sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
+1, quoted for truth. Especially in this era of fleet mpg, eggbeater twin turbo sixes. The NA 6.2L is powerful, pleasing, effortless. Nice. Only heads up are the shimmies which can be checked on a highway test drive at varying speeds, and the horrible headlamps which need to be upgraded. See the subforum on headlamp mods, the morimotos are tremendous.
At high altitude here in Colorado, and towing a 7k boat frequently, the only options I had were to choose Ecoboost (which does well in thin air) and the 6.2L GMC brothers. I loved the Ford's pep, fit and finish, and more advanced tech. However, there are many F150 alum bodies reporting skittish rear end handling, especially under tow loads. I also tend to get spooked by turbo maintenance and parts requirements beyond 70k miles in any vehicle. The GMC 6.2L won over due to much better towing manners and to a lesser degree, my admitted love affair with NA V8's for no fuss truck duties
Over all else, my only suggestion is add air bags for any of thse discussed loads. Night and day difference, and not expensive.
As other's note, it's a mice problem, not a vehicle problem. IME, the bigger exposure to mice making a home out of the vehicle is that eventually it becomes an odor issue that cannot be remedied without pulling apart, replacing, and disinfecting everything. You absolutely, positively, gotta find a way to either (1) get rid of them, or (2) keep them out of the vehicle. There's many methods that are largely up to you including cats, poisons, traps, deterrents, sealants/screens, etc, but likely a combination of these things given they are persistent buggers for food and warmth.
Liner protects your truck, bedrug protects your stuff.
TX, those are aluminum 54" channel rails that mount either with expander bolts or regular bolts to vehicle rooftops, caps, or tonneaus. I got these from Rack Attack, though both Yakima and Thule now have them. http://www.rackattack.com/base-roof-rack-systems/permanent-custom-mount-roof-rack-systems/yakima-54-inch-track-hardtop-kit/ These were bolted through the rail caps and steel truck bed tops, but in the future can be removed and covered by just replacing the plastic rail caps. These are very solid, and the rack towers/crossbars/gear racks can be removed from the rails with a matc
^There's plenty of room to run the air lines along the frame and under box to the rear bumper. The two schraeder air valves mount in the top two holes of the license plate holder and are capped off. Very clean.
Have now settled into 15-16 psi for daily driving and 30 psi for tow duties. I'll tinker with slightly lesser air on the tow setup, but for DD she is set. I'm a bit shocked at how much better the ride is, pun intended.
First reaction is that these bags not only vastly improve ride quality for tow loads, but are also an upgrade to the overall suspension for daily driving. Rear suspension is both firmer with no jouncing, yet has also lost the harsh hit type feeling on both small and larger bumps. Under tow loads the ride is significantly improved with no loose feeling or pronounced bouncing when road conditions present a few rollers back to back. Any sag from trailer tongue weights can be eliminated with pressure adjustments. I decided to wait on replacing the stock Rancho shocks as my local shop
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