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Ravenkeeper

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Everything posted by Ravenkeeper

  1. Did it with my ‘18 Silverado, PIN numbers are the same.
  2. As I stated in another thread on this same subject... CA Vehicle Code 24616(c) states: "A rear-facing auxiliary lamp may be activated only when the vehicle is stopped.  A vehicle equipped with a rear-facing auxiliary lamp shall also be equipped with a system that allows activation of the lamp only when the vehicle is in the “park” setting, if the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, or in the “neutral” setting with the parking brake engaged, if the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission." OTHER STATES MAY HAVE SIMILAR LAWS!!!
  3. Your video actually answered a lot of my question about installing a hidden antenna or two. I did the antenna delete mod, about a week after I got my truck home, when I bought it. Had done it to my '15, shortly after I bought it, too. I'm waiting for my drivers assist handle to come in, before I install the first hidden antenna. May add a second one on opposite rear window, run it under the kick plates, and up to that connection in the top of the dash. My original plan, before seeing this video, was to push the antenna connectors through the firewall and connect to the antenna base.
  4. When I lived in NM, there were guys that would get 45-50lb bails of hay, strategically lay them in the bed, put their tonneau covers back on, and used them for the needed traction weight, during the winter.
  5. White to start? Figured that you bought a ME and wrapped the white parts. Still looks good. Wouldn't have thought that a "two-tone" like that would look sharp, but it works and looks good.
  6. When I take my '18 in for its first servicing, I'm going to get this done. Agree with the rest of you, "DAMN IT'S BRIGHT!!!" Didn't have this issue with my '15. As a matter of fact, I just put it in my "Truck To Do List" in the Reminders app in my phone.
  7. Thought I’ve saw a few on Amazon in various colors.
  8. If it were E85, the fill port would be YELLOW, or at least the cap would be. For those that remember the vehicles that used “regular” fuel, back in the 70s and before, “Regular fuel” had a 1” spout, and would run on “no-Lead,” unleaded, BUT you couldn’t put the “regular” spout in the unleaded vehicles, as the spout was too big for the 1/2” hole. We use a few E85 vehicles at work, their economy SUCKS!!!!
  9. Just got home a little bit ago, but yesterday (11/3) I drove to the Stryper Concert in Santa Clarita, and today (11/4), I drove home from the concert. I’d post a video of it (no pictures) but it’s a hour and a half long video.
  10. Just got home a little bit ago, but yesterday (11/3) I drove to the Stryper Concert in Santa Clarita, and today (11/4), I drove home from the concert. I’d post a video of it (no pictures) but it’s a hour and a half long video.
  11. UPDATE: They tracked down the moron that caused the wreck, now we're waiting for the accident report to get done with its run through the CHP gambit to be released publicly, so we can sue the moron and his insurance.
  12. Looking for either a Quad-Fold (preferred) or a Tri-Fold HARD Tonneau Cover for my '18 Silverado Crew Cab Midnight Edition, short bed (5.5'). Would prefer something that works well with a "Sport Bar" (AKA: Roll-Bar), as I'm looking at getting one. In the SoCal area, willing to drive to Vegas or San Diego for one, too. I have family in Sacramento & the Bay Area, so driving up there would be another option.
  13. From the album: Tow Hitch Tail/Brake Light Mod

    If you cut away the zip-ties, put new ones back on the harness. Be sure to NOT pinch the YELLOW wire loop.

    © (C) 2018 RAVENKEEPER

  14. Ravenkeeper

    Tow Hitch Tail/Brake Light Mod

    *****THIS MOD ONLY WORKS FOR BULLY CR-007A, OR THE LIKE. THE TAIL/BRAKE LIGHT HAS TO BE A 4-WIRE WITH SMART-BOX.***** *****Sort the images by "Caption" to put them in order.***** 1. Get a NEW Bully Truck Hitch Tail/Brake Light (HAS TO BE A CR-007A), a BLUE wire splicer/crimp, and RED LED 1157 Bulb (one for each assembly). My new Bully Hitch Cover Tail & Brake Light, unaltered. Unpack the light, and gently stretch out the harness. a. Get the Zip-Ties out of the way from the black box and the harness You can work the two zip-ties loose and out of the way. Take the smaller one toward the plug, but DO NOT PINCH THE YELLOW WIRE LOOP!!! Take the larger one off of the circuit block and toward the light assembly. If you want, you can cut the zip-ties away, and replace them with new ones, when you’re done. b. Pull wire harness up through the block, with a couple inches of harness exposed Take the black sheath and slide it as close to the plug as you can, exposing the wires inside of the assembly. This one was all the way in against the lamp housing. I pinched a little bit of the sheath and push the wires through towards the assembly, until I could pull them through from inside the assembly. c. Cut the BROWN wire in two places, i. Even with the opening of the mount (NOT DOWN INSIDE), and/or Cut the BROWN wire about even with the end of the block. If you can cut it too short (down inside the block) or a little long, you will have chaffing issues later because you will not be able to pull the harness back in out of the way. Just a closer view of the BROWN wire cut. NOTICE that the cut is about even with the opening. ii. At the plug IF YOU WANT, cut the other end of the BROWN wire at the plug, or leave it alone, you already cut the source for the light assembly to shine with the tail lights. I removed mine with each one that I have done. Pull it out, and you can either throw it away or keep it for another project. I'm debating on using it re-modify my original light, so it works just like this one. d. Connect blue splice: i. Slide YELLOW wire into the pass-through (open side) of the splice ii. Slide BROWN wire into the splice (“hinge side”) until it stops iii. Pull YELLOW wire thru splice until it’s even with BROWN (same length from splice to bulb) iv. Crimp the splice v. Fold the lock over & lock it Slide the YELLOW wire through the opening in the splice, MAKING SURE THAT THE CLOSED OFF END IS AWAY FROM THE LAMP, toward you. Insert the BROWN wire into the other opening, and slide the splice down along the YELLOW wire until the BROWN wire is completely inside the splice, both YELLOW and BROWN are even between the splice and the bulb housing. Take a pair of pliers, smash the splice blade down into the splice, and fold over the lock. e. Pull wire harness back into the block In the same manner that you slid the sheath away from the light housing, run the sheath back down to the splice. Pull the harness back down into the assembly until the sheath almost disappears through the inside hole. DO NOT pull the harness too tightly down into the assembly. f. Install RED LED 1157 Bulb (OPTIONAL) I chose to replace the conventional 1157 bulb with an 1157 RED LED Bulb, make the light shine more RED. g. Re-zip-tie harness and little black box Take the zip-ties and put them back where they were when you started. I slid the small one down near the sheath, put the larger one back on the circuit box, and tightened both of them up a little, since I removed the BROWN wire. I then trimmed off the extra zip-tie that I had pushed through, to clean it up. With this mod, the light functions/illuminates as follows: 1) Locking/Unlocking the vehicle 2) Remote Starting - will only flash when the lock button is pressed during the sequence 3) Applying the brakes, and 4) EMERGENCY FLASHERS The circuit box keeps it from flashing with the turn signals, but allow it to flash with the emergency flashers. You may need to purchase a 12” 4-wire extension for it to receive power, about $4 @ Walmart. On my ’06 & ’10 Ridgelines, the harness was long enough to reach. BUT on my ’15 & ’18 Silverados, I had to buy an extension. 2. Performed operational check. Light illuminates as follows: I will shoot a video of the operational check out of this modified light sometime in the near future, with some family assistance. a. Lock/Unlock visual indication, b. Remote Start visual indication (with BROWN wire removed, it will only flash with tails, like Lock/Unlock), c. Press brake pedal, and d. Emergency Flashers.
  15. From the album: Tow Hitch Tail/Brake Light Mod

    Slide the sheathing material back up against the splice before pulling the harness in. Gently pull the harness back into the block. Do NOT pull the wires down too tight, they should be a little loose.

    © (C) 2018 RAVENKEEPER

  16. From the album: Tow Hitch Tail/Brake Light Mod

    After the blade is fully engaged on the wires, fold the lock over and lock the splice.

    © (C) 2018 RAVENKEEPER

  17. From the album: Tow Hitch Tail/Brake Light Mod

    Use pliers to slide the splice blade into the splice and engaging both YELLOW and BROWN wires. (This one is only halfway)

    © (C) 2018 RAVENKEEPER

  18. From the album: Tow Hitch Tail/Brake Light Mod

    Slide the splice down the YELLOW wire until the BROWN wire is fully inserted into the splice and both YELLOW and BROWN are even lengths between the splice and light bulb.

    © (C) 2018 RAVENKEEPER

  19. From the album: Tow Hitch Tail/Brake Light Mod

    Slip the YELLOW wire into the first OPEN position, so the YELLOW wire passes through the splice.

    © (C) 2018 RAVENKEEPER

  20. From the album: Tow Hitch Tail/Brake Light Mod

    Install the BLUE splice.

    © (C) 2018 RAVENKEEPER

  21. From the album: Tow Hitch Tail/Brake Light Mod

    Remove the BROWN wire. Either keep it for another project or pitch it into the trash.

    © (C) 2018 RAVENKEEPER

  22. From the album: Tow Hitch Tail/Brake Light Mod

    Cut BROWN wire at plug, if you want to remove the wire completely.

    © (C) 2018 RAVENKEEPER

  23. From the album: Tow Hitch Tail/Brake Light Mod

    Cut BROWN wire even with the opening of the block. TOO LONG or TOO SHORT will cause problems near the end of this mod.

    © (C) 2018 RAVENKEEPER

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