pgamboa

This was the member I knew that could provide some direction on this topic. I remember reading your posts on the steering wheel controls, radio upgrades, etc. You kept saying the "MOST" bus... and now know what you mean. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you thought about using a diode to have your puddles on the dome lamp circuit? That's what I've done. Now they turn on/off with the dome lamp switch too. BTW - I love your grille! I am on the lookout for one! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I said the same thing when I started learning more about diodes and how the flow of current is one way, then looking at the pics, I had the same questions. Since it works as intended, they are left that way. I was gonna post the same question in hopes of some electrical engineers can explain. I also learned that the circuits we are jumping are switched ground circuits and not actual positive supply voltage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You'll want to check the X310 connector and look at pins. This is the main harness that the seat harness connects to and goes forward to various locations for the connections. When I was looking for a dome lamp circuit under the seat, in my 2016 LT, the Upfitter guide showed this signal present but my harness wasn't loaded for it. In the 2016 Guide, it shows connection locations for the seat heater, power seat adjustments, etc. For 2014, unfortunately, the Upfitter guide is a MUCH smaller guide (254 pages instead of 1500 pages for 2016-2017). There is not much references to this connector in the 2014 Upfitter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Love the success story! Glad we are able to hurdle through the obstacles and get it done! Those look great!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thats correct. This way, the Cargo light comes on when in reverse, and the reverse light comes on when you hit the Cargo light button. Since diodes are one way, a wire jump will accomplish the same thing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In the earlier posts of this thread, someone started a chain and paid it forward. Basically, using the diodes he needed, then mailing the rest to another member. That member would use what he needed then paid it forward. It was really cool and how I got a couple. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very cool. You recall the estimated cost for it all? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is the main use case for a dual battery? Nice write up BTW.

I've got a Plug and Play harness set ready for anyone looking to upgrade their standard DL8 Mirrors to DL3 Mirrors. PM me for more info. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would need to see the inline door connector to see how WT trims are pinned out. If you are able to remove the door connector and snap a photo of the body side connector, I'd be more than happy to look into it. It would look like this: This is with the connector pulled out of the jamb And a picture with it in the jamb: I would also need to explore the harness that's in the door panel as well. If you have no power Mirrors, you wouldn't have the connector that would normally go to the power mirror switch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello Everyone, I wanted to start this thread as a continuation from my DL8 to DL3 Mirror Conversion here. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/190736-2016-silverado-lt-dl8-to-dl3-mirror-conversion-finally-complete-3/page-1 Based on the 6 months of research in the above thread, feedback from many of the members here, and observing behavior of other member's experience... I am now able to officially offer a Plug and Play Harness Solution for those that want to upgrade their Standard DL8 Mirrors to the DL3 Mirrors on their 2014* - 2017 Silverado/Sierra Trucks (LT/SLE Trims). DL8 Mirrors - Power Adjust, Manual Fold, and Heated DL3 Mirrors - Power Adjust, Power Fold, Heated, Auto Dim (Driver's Side), Turn Signal and Puddle Lamps This has been tested on the following models: 2014* - Silverado/Sierra LT/SLE - 1500* (Known issue with Puddle Lamps - Diode mod workaround required) 2015 - 2017 Silverado/Sierra LT/SLE Please see Vehicle Acceptability for Retrofit Document Here. Keep in mind that this document is intended for Towing Mirrors, but based on feedback, they seem to follow similar acceptability requirements. https://www.dropbox.com/s/q4eldhgg2x8i10q/Camper%20Mirrors%20-%2023371780.pdf?dl=0 There might be additional wiring needed for other trucks. If you decide to purchase the harness anyway, I can assist as much as I can. However, there is no guarantee that it'll work without BCM/Memory Module Calibration (and if that's even possible), or additional wiring for missing circuits in the inline door hinge connector. Also, if you are outside of the compatibility requirements, I would need some additional information/photos of your truck connectors to determine if this harness will work or not. The Plug and Play Harness will be pinned for the following functionality. Turn Signal Puddle Lamps Power Fold*** Auto Dim (Driver's Side)**** ***For Power Fold, you will need a new Mirror Adjust/Power Fold Switch - Part # 23154702. ****For Auto Dim (Driver's Side) - You will need to add a Auto Dim Rear View Mirror AND run the additional (4) Circuits needed to the X51L Fuse Panel and X61A Junction Box. Please see thread here for details. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/192050-a10-inside-rearview-auto-dimming-mirror-conversion-dd8/?hl=a10+mirror The Harness Set for both Driver and Passenger is $225 Shipped (lower 48) via PayPal (as Family and Friends). I ship USPS Priority Mail 2-3 Day Shipping. Once you receive the Harnesses, Install, Test, and Confirm all is operational, you have the option of shipping me your Stock DL8 Harness for a $40 Core Refund.

I would take EXTRA precautions if the wire color doesn't match. After reviewing the BCM Connector Pin for 2014-2017, I found some variances. Especially with 2014. For Example: Looking at JUST the Brown X5 Connector between the years: 2014: Shows a 25-Pin Connector (2015-2017 Show a 26-Pin Connector) Pin #10 - Shows a Brown Wire, Circuit 5077 - Low Reference (10 Series Except MEX) Pin #18 - Shows a Tan Wire, Circuit 28 - Horn Relay Control (Except MEX) Pin #22 - Shows "NOT USED" It looks like for 2014, I cannot locate a Fog Lamp Relay Control circuit on this Brown Connector (X5) but it shows that there is one on the Black X4 Connector - Pin #11 - Dark Green/White Stripe: Circuit 1317 - Fog Lamp Relay Control. 2015: Shows a 26-Pin Connector: Pin #10 - Shows a Brown/White Stripe Wire - Circuit 1317 - Fog Lamp Relay Control Pin #18 - Shows a Brown/Violet Stripe Wire - Circuit 1969 - Headlamp High Beam Control Pin #22 - Shows a Dark Blue Wire - Circuit 45 - Park Lamp Relay Control 2016: Shows a 26-Pin Connector: Pin #10 - Shows a Brown Wire - Circuit 1317 - Fog Lamp Relay Control Pin #18 - Shows a Brown/Violet Stripe Wire - Circuit 1969 - Headlamp High Beam Control Pin #22 - Shows a Dark Blue Wire - Circuit 45 - Park Lamp Relay Control 2017: Shows a 26-Pin Connector: Pin #10 - Shows a Brown Wire - Circuit 1317 - Fog Lamp Relay Control Pin #18 - Shows a Brown/Violet Stripe Wire - Circuit 1969 - Headlamp High Beam Control Pin #22 - Shows a Dark Blue Wire - Circuit 45 - Park Lamp Relay Control So - If you are unsure, I would be double/triple checking before inserting a diode in the BCM.

The diode that goes into Pin #22 (Dark blue) comes from Pin #10 (two slots below). Pin #10 (can't be seen) should he a Brown Solid wire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I unplug the connector from the BCM before inserting. Makes it easier and I feel safer doing it with it unplugged. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keep in mind the brown to the pink diode is the Cargo/Reverse mod. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When this thread first started, it started out as Fog Lights on with High Beams. Pins #10 & #18 Then it was determined that #10 & #22 was better as the fog lights would be on with low beam AND stay on with High Beam. So then everyone moved to 10 & 22 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

10 and 22 also keeps the fogs on with high beams as well. I just checked it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

10 and 22 are correct. This is what it is very important to know what slots you are going into, color wire scheme, and schematic to verify. It can get tricky looking at a schematic and you forget that sometimes you could be looking at a mirror image or the mating connector. Here is a better picture showing it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PM Sent Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PM sent. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

. You know the 'ol saying. "Had I known then what I know now." [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have DL3 Mirrors, you can do the same diode mod if you want the puddle lamps to come on anything the dome lamp is on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Grey connector on the far left. Thick grey wire is the dome lamp circuit. Diode Stripe toward the thinner grey (with green stripe). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree. However, after looking at all the harness routing diagrams, it makes sense why they have so many variants. Pig tails that come off the main harnesses wouldn't need to be there if the option/Accessory doesn't exist. I think having less part #s and having unneeded pigtails coiled up and tucked away. Less inventory overhead to plan for. If circuits would exist all the way around, make it a programmable BCM upgrade and charge a fee to to upgrade it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Between the brown and pink plugs - Yes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk