pgamboa

Yep. When I bought the tail lights, it came with the harness already. This harnesses plugged up underneath. However, since I had no resistors, they hyperflashed. Gen5DIY makes two types of harnesses. One for 14/15 trucks - that adapts the 16 harness into the 14/15 connector underneath (with resistors pre-wired in line) and one for the 16 trucks with the resistor pre-wired. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The harnesses for the 16/17 tail lights are different between the LED and Halogen. On the tail light side, one 4 pin connector drives the brake, and signal. Then the traditional socket for the reverse. On the other end, (that plugs underneath by the spare tire), that connector is the same between the two. The harness that Gen5DIY provides makes it plug and play. You just need to mount the resistor. I am good at wiring but didn't want to spend the time to figure out which wires to split into. I really don't like to splice into an existing harness, especially when there was a chance for a dealer BCM program to correct hyper flash. Since a reprogram was a no go, I kept the harness and plugged them in inline. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When you do this, if you don't already know, Gen5DIY has a harness that'll adapt to your 2014/2015 with the resistors wired inline. Since my truck is a 2016, the connectors are the same for me but still bought the harness so I didn't have to tap into the existing harness wires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got it for $600 shipped on eBay. But I ended up getting an line harness with resistors from Gen5DIY. $80 for that.

Subscribed. Curious to know how to remove the air bag as well.

Installed 2016 LTZ Tail Lights on my 2016 LT truck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you end up running all (4) Positive leads towards the BCM, and pigtailed to one wire to the power source?

Ok - Thanks! I'm gonna try and tackle this...hopefully this weekend. By kids are already curious on these and hooking them up to 9v batteries. LOL.

I received the LEDs today. Went to poke around and was wondering about placement and attachment. Couldn't find good places. I understand that a 3/8" hole will make these mount easily and was thinking about a bracket of some sort. Any photos or recommendations? Thanks in advance!

That's where I got mine from too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Phillips 921 LED / T16 (12789LPB2) Bright White Vision LED - 2 pack. You'll need 2 packs for a total of 4 bulbs. Phillips 194 Bright White Interior for the License Plate bulbs - 2 pack. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like the black lettering. Plastidip? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

"The Black Pearl" As stock as they come. I've done mostly interior work. Converted to DL3 mirrors wth full functionality (including auto dimming - driver mirror), Auto dim rear view mirror, VSS SoundStage Amp and Sub, Floor Liners front and rear, Chevy Exhaust Tip, Bull Ring Bed Clips, Cargo Net, LTZ LED Tail Lights. So mostly cosmetic upgrades for now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just ordered some of these for my next project. I see that you tapped into Pin #1 on the BCM #7 connector (Dome Light Control Circuit). Where did you tap into grounds for each LED?

Phillips LED Reverse and Cargo Lamps Driver' Assist Handle Frame Tube Plugs Footwell LED Lighting Cargo Net Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! I just ordered a set from Amazon and ordered some from eBay similar to your link. Thanks again!

Where did you get the frame tubes from? The post above yours seems to have his inserted the opposite. Didn't these were available. Looks like they are on amazon.

Updated Reference Diagram to include Terminal Leads for both ends of the connection points. Also, total cost for this upgrade was $136.45. $94.45 for the terminal leads and $42.00 for the mirror. Enjoy!

Thanks Guys! Spent lots of time reading the Upfitter Manual to ensure I've covered all the circuits needed across all connectors to make this work. Gotta love that feeling when you put everything back and it works! I hope I can continue to contribute on mods like this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found a set of the LED OEM Tali Lights on ebay for $600 shipped where as others were $1,200. Dealer price is like $700-$800 each. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I found a set of the LED OEM Tail Lights on ebay for $600 shipped where as others were $1,200. Dealer price is like $700-$800 each. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found a set of the LED OEM Tali Lights on ebay for $600 shipped where as others were $1,200. Dealer price is like $700-$800 each. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No guide yet. If I decide to do this swap (if I can find decently priced headlights), I'll be sure to make a detailed guide as I normally do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello, I wanted to share my A10 - Inside RearView Mirror conversion from UE8 (OnStar Only) to OnStar and Auto Dimming (UE8 & DD8). I have read a few threads out there from those that have attempted this by tapping into nearby power circuits. I didn't want to go this route and wanted this to be a Factory as possible. Also, since I completed the Side Mirrors Conversion (DL8 to DL3), I also wanted have the Auto Dimming feature working on the Driver's Side Mirror as well. After completing the conversion, I can confirm that I now have FULL functionality with Auto Dim on the Rear View Mirror AND my Driver's Side Mirror This setup is for my: 2016 Silverado, Crew Cab, LT, 5.3L Gas. Your mileage might vary. Please confirm wiring for you vehicle! NOTE: Having the Driver's Side Auto Dim function to work, you MUST have the circuits in the Driver's Door Panel harness. Since I converted by harness from DL8 to DL3, I had the circuits already there. I created a PDF of all my notes and research to ensure I was doing this right and like it would have come from the factory. Please see "A10 Mirror Connector Reference". I hope this helps those that also want to this. I used pre-terminated terminal leads that I bought from eBay. Those part #s are also in the Reference Diagram. There are a total of (4) Circuits Needed that were missing in the A10 - (UE8) Mirror Connector. To get the DD8 Option you'll need the following circuits (please note, these are also listed in detail in the "A10 Mirror Connector Reference). I advise to print it out to have for easy reference and understanding. Circuit 24 - Backup Lamp Control (Light Green/Red Stripe) Circuit 1690 - Automatic Day/Night Mirror Signal (Yellow/White Stripe) Circuit 1691 - Automatic Day/Night Mirror Low Reference (Black/Yellow Stripe) Circuit 1739 - Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage (Violet/Light Green Stripe) UPDATE: When i did this upgrade back in September 2016, the instructions in the cross reference sheet I provided include sourcing the Pre-Terminated Leads from GM. Since then, I have found the actual terminal pins so that you can crimp then yourself. They are cheaper in price but will require a crimp tool. Pre-Terminated Leads: A10 Mirror: 13575867 - These sell for about $6 each. You'll need (4) = $24 X51L/X61A Panels - 19301767 - These sell for about $14 each. You'll need (4) = $56 Total Cost = $80 for Pre-Terminated Leads + Shipping Terminal Pins from Mouser: A10 Mirror: SAIT-A03T-M064 - $0.07/each - You'll need (4) = $0.28 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/13849930-L/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs7eK6h2EBtKnVYD9xPrV6CnMqjFL3PycU%3D X51L/X61A Panels: 13849929-L - $0.18/each - You'll need (4) = $0.72 http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/JST/SAIT-A03T-M064/?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduhkh82d7cDA4KZPGw2IAWOBN4IAbsI5FZ%2FIEBdeeFjRSg%3D%3D Engineering Inc. PA-20 Crimp Tool - $35 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AVVO7U/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487961421&sr=sr-1&keywords=pa-20 Total Cost - $36.00 for the Terminal Pins and a Crimp Tool + Shipping So, you will still save $40 getting the pins, crimp tool, and crimping them yourself. Since the pins are very cheap, I would pickup a few extras for crimping practice. Step 1: I took a High Quality - 25' HDMI Cable and stripped wires away from it. I wanted to get the wires to be as close as to the GM color code scheme as possible. These wires were 22AWG. Step 2: I grabbed the four wires closest to the color code scheme and wrapped them with automotive harness tape. Step 3: I removed the Overhead Console and began running wires along the headliner (inserting from the front edge gap and working my way to the A-Pillar of the driver's side. At this point, I removed the fuse panel cover on the driver's side door to expose the X51L Fuse Block Instrument Panel. The purple wire will land on Pin #13 of the X3 Connector (this is on the right side of the Fuse Panel). Step 4: I separated my harness so that my purple wire (Circuit 1739) landed inside the X51L Fuse Block Instrument Panel with the other 3 wires (Black, Green, Yellow) continuing down the side into the footwell area. Step 5: Since I have the Kicker VSS System, I had to remove the amp as it sits on top of the X61A Junction Block. Remove the top cover to expose the connectors. The connector you'll want to remove and look at is the X3 Blue Connector (top left corner). This is where the 3 circuits will land. Pins #8, #9, and #13 is what you want. It was a real PAIN to insert since there was not enough slack in the harness, so be prepared for awkward contortion. NOTE: I did completely pull the fuse block out and verify pins on both sides of the fuse block. That is also noted in the reference diagram. Inserted leads, wrapped excess wires with automotive harness tape, zip tied to existing harnesses, connecting everything back. Step 6: In the overhead console side, I landed the terminal leads into Pins #1, #2, #8, and #9 (Also referenced in the diagram). Put everything back together, took a test drive at night... ALL IS WORKING! Hope this helps, let me know if you need any help with this. Here is the PDF I created for the complete wiring diagram and photos. A10 Mirror Connector Reference Here! ENJOY! https://www.dropbox.com/s/e8hnnt7nvdsv1wa/A10%20Mirror%20Connector%20Reference.pdf?dl=0

Does anyone have links for the best deals on these? Looking for all (4). Thanks!

I've got a couple. PM me your address and will put in an envelope tomorrow.