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Everything posted by pgamboa

  1. Here is a video where I show the HMI. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. About $200. I sold my factory bumper and broke even on the cost of the new bumper. The $200 covered the cost of the module, programming, bumper harness, and wiring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. The $99 price is the cost to for programming only. If you notice, the drop down says “Customer supplying HMI and Radio Hardware”. This means you are sending your own sourced hardware. If you can select to have them supply hardware. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. It was plug and play for me. Check to see if you have plug under your dash. You’ll need a wheel and appropriate clock spring. If you have the mate plug down below, check to see if it has voltage with the engine running. If you don’t have the mate end, or you do and it’s not hot with the engine running, then you’ll need my suplemental harness. I have a video of that install on my YouTube Channel here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. So, since you are not the original owner of this truck, there is no telling why it isn't working. So before spending any more $ on things, I would begin exploring. You can easily verify the HMI you have by removing the lower glove box. It is only held on by(4) T-15 Torx Screws. The the glove box pops off. You'll be able to look underneath and see the connections going into the HMI. I would unplug those and pull the HMI out. Verify if you have a 2.0 or 2.5 HMI. Then go from there. If the inside storage compartment USB hub also doesn't work for CP/AA, this may be the case in that you have the 2.0 HMI. The triple USB port up front not working is likely due to incompatibility. When you swapped it out, did you notice if a Black 6-pin connector and a Grey USB cable was plugged in?
  6. Projection usually means 2.5 HMI. However, the triple port USB hub you put in is an older unit that doesn’t support CP/AA. Does the inside storage compartment hub work for CP/AA? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. You can also test the theory . There have been many times I’ve worked on a project on my truck (or a customers trucks) and the RAP turns off. I go to reach up to the dome lamp switch - nothing happens when I put it to the ON switch. Then I realized that the truck has been sitting for 15-20 minutes. LOL. So - cycle power, open/close door, key fob lock/unlock - etc. I’ll try the radio button next time for the trigger Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. RAP is active for about 10-15 minutes, then shuts off until it is “triggered”. My guess is - it was triggered to come when you pressed the power button OR RAP was still active when you pressed the button. Should be alright. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. One more thing - Both USB Hubs should work for CarPlay/Android Auto in trucks that are equipped with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. The triple USB ports is the older hub that GM used for 2014-2015 trucks. You’ll want to remove your HMI and report back if it’s a 2.0 HMI or a 2.5 HMI. CarPlay/Android Auto was introduced in 2016 trucks, however, on some earlier model 2016 trucks, GM used leftover 2.0 HMIs until they exhausted them. These trucks had a $200 credit on the sticker. If you have a 2.0 HMI, it will require new hardware and possibly, new radio module. Both of these will require programming for your truck. Remove your lower glove box and pull your HMI out and verify. Lastly, if you’re original usb hub was a double usb hub, you’ll want to keep that and not use a triple. There are internal hardware differences between them. If it turns out that you do have the 2.0 HMI, you can order what you need from WAMS- https://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/product/2014-2015-5-c-k-platform-car-play-upgrade-retrofit-programming/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Reading all the comments here, I’ve come to the conclusion that GM didn’t land this hidden connector to land this upgrade easy. I think they landed this connector to cut down on headliner harness part #s. The glueing down seems like the route they took so no rattling would be heard. They should should have used a clip slot retention instead of hot glue to secure the connector. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Those are two independent circuits. My harness is wired to supply power to the charging lid. Based on your posted photo, I see that you have the 1st generation charging module. This is the reason it is not charging. GM Updated the module and is the 2nd generation now with a triple coil system. You can purchase this module/kit here. https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2018-wireless-charging-module-kit-adapter/ I also have a limited supply of Factory inverter kits if you want to get the 110V outlet operational. Inverter kits ar won’t listed online as they are a very limited supply. PM me if you’re interested in that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I’ll add some advice here on the mirror aspect. I have helped over 3000+ members here on this forum with this upgrade. You’ll see my name thrown around as I’ve been dubbed the resident guru [emoji51]. You’ll want to watch out for aftermarket tow mirrors. Specifically, mirrors from eBay/Amazon, or any time mirror priced in the $250 or less range. Many of these mirrors are sourced from the same place and MANY of them are not wired to GM specifications. I noticed you mentioned that the existing mirrors are “power retracting”... I took this as “Power Fold”. Can you confirm this? Do they are have the red turn signal indicator in the glass? Do they have a downward shining puddle lamp? Does this truck have seat memory? Also, what year is this truck? What I’ve observed with many of the aftermarket tow mirrors out there, they all tend to either tie the running lights and turn signals together (internally behind the glass). This causes a problem if you wire them up to the GM specifications. It will back feed voltage and things will not work. If you mirrors already in mind or have already purchased them, please provide a link or model #. I’ll gladly look at them and will try to advise. If you already have them, I can help you validate their wiring. I’ve got products to help with the mirror upgrade - www.HarnessDR.com Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Best way is to either modify your door harnesses and add the missing circuits or purchase my custom door harnesses. Since you have a 2015, you’ll want to do some exploring and see if your truck has the pins delivered to the door jamb circuit. All 2014 trucks and early 2015 trucks will have the tow mirror light circuits missing on the door jamb connector. If this is your case, there will be a need to run an additional GM harness inside the cabin and under the hood. See pic to see what you’re looking. Specifically, pins 9 and 11. Here are some links to products that you’ll want to look at. https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2019-dl8-tow-mirror-upgrade-diy-kit/ https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2019-dl8-tow-mirror-upgrade-pnp-harness/ https://harnessdr.com/product/tow-mirror-cabin-under-the-hood-jumper-harness-part-23387133/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. So you currently have the 1st gen tow mirror now? DPN? Check you glove box for DPN. If you can also send a pic, that would be helpful. If your passenger mirror doesn't have a physical temp sensor probe on the bottom, don't need to worry about that. Since your truck is an early 2015 truck, there will likely be the need to run wiring inside the cabin/under hood. This is a separate GM Harness. Also, if you do have the 1st Gen DPN tow mirror and have seat memory, there is workaround harness you'll need (from me) to get the passenger side mirror to fold (IF you go with power fold mirrors). If the current passenger mirror doesn't have a physical temp sensor on the bottom, you don't need to worry about it. I don't have knowledge for trucks older than 2014. My apologies. You want GM DQS Mirrors if you want to retain the memory features and power fold. I can source GM DQS Mirrors but my supplier doesn't ship outside the US. I can ship harnesses to Canada. If you want to move forward, please email me with a copy of this message so we can move forward with invoicing. There are no power extend (telescoping) options for these mirrors. All manual telescoping. Since your truck is a 2015, you'll want to inspect your door jamb connector harness. You want to see if in the door jamb/cabin side of the connector, pins 9 and 11 are present. This will tell us if the cargo light (white rearward shining light) and the amber running light circuits were ran to the door jambs. You will need either to swap door harnesses OR modify your factory ones. We have products to support either option you choose at our site - www.HarnessDR.com
  16. If you want to do it right, you’ll want to get the matching radio module as well. I presume you don’t have Bose either. So you’ll want to look for a Non-Bose Radio Module and Non-Nav 2.5 HMI. https://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/product/2014-2015-5-c-k-platform-car-play-upgrade-retrofit-programming/ The total cost for this upgrade will vary based on how much you can get hardware for should you decide to get it used from any other source. Have it supplied by the company above, you’re getting new hardware. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Don’t understand the question. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Bose Amp is mounted on the back wall of the truck (behind the passenger seat). You might have a console sub. If you do, you’ll end up with a “hole” in the carpet. This cutout will be exposed if you have a sub. You’ll need the front panel - I call this the “ashtray”. I have a black one for sale for $60. You’ll also need to add this trim piece. You will need a “reverse” conversion harness. I have here - https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2018-reverse-console-jump-seat-conversion-harness/ It will plug into the main dash junction where you console plugs in now. The harness would need to run under the carpet along the jump, and connects directly into the components of the jump seat. Hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Sent you a message. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Think the harnesses I get back that I have to unwrap and rebuild. Some nasty stuff! [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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