66deadhead

First off, I have not read this entire thread. But I think I read somewhere that the door is designed to not fully close and it is to remain slightly open intentionally from the factory. I am not certain what their reason is for doing this, but... because I am a commercial/ industrial HVAC & Refrigeration technician by trade for many years, the first reason that comes to my mind is, it is left slightly open intentionally because of a possible buildup of Co2 in the cabin. Co2 buildup can make you sleepy and that's not good if your driving a automobile. Most commercial Rooftop units, and room ventilators have a minimum of 10% fresh air that's always entering the airstream because of this. No matter the season of the year. This is especially true for offices and student classrooms , and those types of environments can be bringing in up to 15-25% fresh air into the main air stream at all times.

Also, if I may add, I found it very interesting after speaking with my service manager about this topic, that at 37-38K miles, My dealer recommends a upper induction and valve cleaning on the engine. Apparently they have a special tool / machine that heats up each cylinder through the spark plug port, and burns all those nasty oil deposits that you didn't need a catch can for , right off your valves. Like it pretty much never happened. I believe this service costed about $180.00. This service is offered Just 1-2 K miles out of the 36K mile warranty...., imagine that. Who would of thought. Probably wouldn't hurt to mention that to them and see if they offer this service.

Agreed that it would be in your own best intrest , and wise to talk to your service manager before you install a catch can. If anything ,you'll get a reaction from them, and maybe have a better understanding of where they stand with one. I done so with my dealership for just that reason before I bought one. My dealer told me that it was not really nessaccery to add one, but wasn't against the idea either. He said the Chevy Traverse has a real problem with valve/ engine deposits. And if I owned one of those he would definitely recommend one. So yeah, I felt them out on the idea, before I I bought and installed one. Definitely a good idea so you know what you may be up against as far as future service appointments. As far as the technician not being the same tech as the one that works on the bigger service problems.. I agree and understand this. But at the same time, I like to try and have a little faith in my dealership service department, and hope that that new hire from Jiffy lube , made it this far because he has enough sense to ask a fellow/senior coworker with more experience ( or service manager ) to give him some guidance to resolve this simple problem. Because, after all, he probably doesn't want to be changing oil and doing lube jobs the rest of his life. ( one would hope anyway) . But I guess this could be a problem ,depending on your dealership and where you live.I wouldn't overthink it or get too parinoid about it. Evaluate your dealership, then go from there.

I understand, and It's certainly your prerogative to do so if you wish. As far as filling it with oil, I don't think it's really that hard to do. You push the fitting in on the clamp, and remove the hose from the CSS, use a crescent wrench if needed and remove the CSS from the valve cover oil port, and then grab a funnel if needed and fill with oil. Then screw the CSS back in, and pop the hose back on it. Done. I figure if the dealer can't figure this out, I have much bigger problems. Lol. After all, these service techs at dealerships are removing motors, transmissions, and rebuilding and/or replacing them if needed. Not to mention many other forms of complicated service procedures. a CSS certainly wouldn't be to much of a brain teaser for them...... or would it?

After first installing it, I thought about removing it also when it needed to go in for service. Then after time passed I thought, screw that !! I'm not taking this thing off and putting it back on every time it has to go to the dealer for any problem or service. So I decided not to , and take a few minutes and educate them on what it was, and what it does on the first visit if needed. Life is to short to be worried about every little thing or problem, every single day. I have more important worrys in my life that take priority over a aftermarket catch can. It would only take a few minutes to explain to them, or even show them what they need to know or do. Far easier to take the time explain it to them, than to remove and reinstall on every trip to the dealer.

This is a valid question, and I was also concerned about this. I was at the dealer a few weeks ago for some service including oil change, and I assume they had no problems. I waited at the dealership while the service was being done and they said absolutely nothing to me about it. I figured if there was any type of problem they would of came out to the waiting area and questioned me about it. They did not. I guess in reality how hard can it be with the quick release fittings? I mean, it's the original stock type fittings that already exist. Another note, when service was completed I popped the hood to make sure everything was back to the way I had it and was originally. And it was. No problems and everything was just Hunky Dory.

The catch is probably the interest rates and the terms of borrowing. A lot of times if you are late on just one payment your interest rate will go sky high, putting you right back where you originally were... in debt. I would definitely read the terms carefully, and the small print. Credit companies are in business to make money from you, not get you out of debt.. If at all possible I would try to work with your bank on some sort of a personal loan that you can make work.

It was proven, but it was a bit more complicated than that. To finalize the divorce and to be able to get the house sold before it went to a sheriffs sale, (as she basically stopped paying everything ) and umong many other problems to avoid a complete nuclear shitstorm, like lowering the house price to sell quickly, and taking a hit on that too. (= more debt/money owed) I had to agree to each of us paying the credit balances that we had in our own names. I was an inch away from claiming bankruptcy, but my lawyer strongly directed me not to do that. I couldn't even retain a realtor to sell the house without her signature, due to the fact that we were still married and everything was joint. Even though she was the only one still living in the house and missing her share of the mortgage payment as a regular monthly occurrence. Like I said, it was really nasty. Not enough money in the world to walk in those shoes again.

After being 20-25K in credit card debt due to a very nasty divorce, as she racked all my cards up to the max. I found if your just trying to pay off your credit cards, a consolidation loan would probably be your best bet. Providing your credit is still good enough to get one. ( mine was not due too missed payments per the Ex) If you go this route you will wanna stop using your credit cards immediately. 2 cd option would be that You can try to settle with the credit card companies to lower your balance. If you settle with a credit card company for a lower balance though, it will usually kill any remaining good credit you have, to the point you won't be able to buy a pair of shoestrings on credit, even if you wanted too. If this is not a option, I suggest you you start with your lowest amount card first and pay it off and only paying you minimum payment on the others until the lowest is paid off. Then go to the next lowest and pay as much as you can monthly on that one till it's paid off, continuing to pay minimum payment on the others. If you keep doing this you will eventually get to the last/ highest card and be able to pay as much as you can monthly to pay it off completely. Keep in mind, this will take a long time, and you will have to focus and be persistent, and continue to make good financial choices in the meantime. (There will be many sacrifices, and you will basically have to live off only the cash you have available). It took me 5-6 years to do this and get completely debt free and start to rebuild my credit. But it was well worth it. And I do not own a credit card to this day. As I don't need to. I bank all my cash in a savings account and draw from that when needed, and replenish it on the next payday when I'm able. It can be done, and I wish you the very best of luck with your financial troubles.

After much searching online for a nice catch can set up, I went wth this one. I bought this kit for my 2016 5.3 back in early November only in black. This kit is definitely top notch, looks great under the hood, and it just doesn't get any easier to install. The factory fittings on the hoses really make this kit look top notch professional. UPR has great customer service, they respond quickly, and will help you with any problems or concerns you may have. This kit has been functioning great since I put it on, and has caught a lot of oil already that I don't want going back into my intake. I definitely recommend this catch can set up to anyone thinking of purchasing a catch can. I would buy. This kit again. Money well spent.

2 engine failures due to AFM?? Wow, that sucks... sorry man. I think you already know the answer as to what you should do. I would definitely disable it. I wouldn't trust the new engine to behave any differently that the old if it still has the AFM. I just put the Range AFM delete on my 2016 last week. My truck runs so much better now. Love it!! Doubt I'll ever go back to using the AFM ever again. You could use a tuner to disable it, but it may void your warranty on your motor, that's why I went with the range module instead. Changing parts in the motor is another way to delete it, I believe you would have to change the lifters, pushrods, and Cam at the very least, there may be more that would need replaced as well. Someone else that knows more about that may be able to chime in and answer that.

Ok, I gotta comment on this cause I'm experiencing the same thing on my 2016 at 11,500 miles. It seems like since it's gotten colder out my gas mileage has took a dive, and it also seems to be running a little rougher at idle too. I was averaging about 17-18 mpg back and forth to work, and now I'm getting about 14-15 mpg, I gas up at the same station for almost every fill, run medium grade, and it's a top tier fuel (Exxon) I been attributing some of this to using the remote start in the mornings. Can't explain the rougher idle though. I thought about shooting a can of seafoam or CRC intake/Throttle body cleaner in it , but am hesitant to do so as I don't want it to possibly throw a code. I did install a catch can recently, at about 11,000 miles. But the mileage was already dropping off before that. I spoke to the dealer and they recommended a upper induction cleaning and throttle body cleaning at about 37,000 miles. Yep... 37, 000 miles, 1000 miles after the factory warranty runs out. I found this hilarious, and cracked up right in their faces when they told me this. They also told me I really don't need a catch can on it, as the Silverados are not really prone to valve coking.... Yep, you heard that right... Yet at 37,000 they wanna do a upper induction cleaning. Lol. They did say the Chevy Traverse has a huge problem with intake crud though and attributed that to poor engine design. I am Not trying to turn this into a catch can thread, just stating where I'm at with this truck now, and am wondering the same thing about the gas mileage and why it's dropping off so quickly since it's gotten cold out. And At this point and time, I would have to agree that the colder weather definitely has something to do with mileage, and how the truck runs. But I am also wondering if it's partially because of any crud that may have built up in the engine already. ....or maybe it's a combination of the 2 ?? Guess one day it's warmer on a weekend, I'll get ballsy and shoot a can of cleaner through it and see what happens if it continues to plummet.

Ok cool. Thank you very much for your input. I'm a little worried about the debris from the valve falling down into the cylinder and possibly scoring the cylinder, jamming up the piston rings, or clogging up the cats when I do the treatment. I'm hoping it isn't that bad yet to cause any of these problems. I have been running mobile 1 since the first oil change, Hopefully that's helping the valves from building up a little bit. I guess I'll know more when I get the air box off and inspect the throttle body and existing vacuum hoses. As far as the clean side separator, On the UPR Can kit I ordered, it's my understanding that the separator goes in place of where the oil fill cap is now and that the fittings are quick release. So hopefully the hose should snap right off without any problems when oil needs to be added. I could be wrong about this. Guess I'll know more when the kit shows up in a couple days. It seems like a pretty painless install, and they are saying the whole job should only take 25-45 minutes to complete. So that means it will probably take me a hour and a half /2 hrs to complete in the driveway. Lol. I'll try to post some results on the outcome. Also,I always get a lot of great information on this site,and a few others. there seems to be an answer to almost everything if you take the time to search for it ,or just ask. everyone is always helpful, so Thanks to everyone for all your contributions and taking the time to help others that are not so knowledgeable on certain procedures..... You are the reason this site is so successful !!! Ok cool. Thank you very much for your input. I'm a little worried about the debris from the valve falling down into the cylinder and possibly scoring the cylinder, jamming up the piston rings, or clogging up the cats when I do the treatment. I'm hoping it isn't that bad yet to cause any of these problems. I have been running mobile 1 since the first oil change, Hopefully that's helping the valves from building up a little bit. I guess I'll know more when I get the air box off and inspect the throttle body and existing vacuum hoses. As far as the clean side separator, On the UPR Can kit I ordered, it's my understanding that the separator goes in place of where the oil fill cap is now and that the fittings are quick release. So hopefully the hose should snap right off without any problems when oil needs to be added. I could be wrong about this. Guess I'll know more when the kit shows up in a couple days. It seems like a pretty painless install, and they are saying the whole job should only take 25-45 minutes to complete. So that means it will probably take me a hour and a half /2 hrs to complete in the driveway. Lol. I'll try to post some results on the outcome. Also,I always get a lot of great information on this site,and a few others. there seems to be an answer to almost everything if you take the time to search for it ,or just ask. everyone is always helpful, so Thanks to everyone for all your contributions and taking the time to help others that are not so knowledgeable on certain procedures..... You are the reason this site is so successful !!!

I'm pretty much in this same situation, after months of gathering information and reading threads on this subject, valve deposits , catch cans, do I need one? etc . Decided it's in my best interest to install one , I'm approaching 11,000 miles, and ordered a UPR plug and play Can earlier today. I figured since I plan on keeping my 2016 till the wheels fall off, it's worth the piece of mind, and I can't see how it's gonna hurt anything. Also reading this thread kinda pissed me off, the fact that I have to spend more money and worry about this sort of thing on a brand new 50 k vehicle gives me a few jitters.and it's one more thing to check service and maintain. I was also questioning whether I should do a CRC/ or Seafoam treatment after CC install. Thinking I would do it right before the next oil change. Anyone Think the buildup would be bad enough at 11-12,000 miles that it could damage anything?? Any thoughts appreciated. Thx

I have never heard of lowering it to increase HP. I know guys that go a lower temp T-stat in old muscle cars to try and keep the Motor running cooler. The thought being that heat is the enemy and would possibly not wear the engine as much. If you did lower it it would effect your heat and it would be colder air coming out of the vents though.

Snake eyes, I guess anything is possible. Hopefully he' s still sucking in oxogen though. Maybe he had a change of heart after all the hard work and $$$$ he put into it. You seem to never get out of them what you put into them. I'm gonna have to put some sort of hood scoop on mine when I'm done just for hood clearence so I can shut it. Or buy a new cowl hood. Right now I'm leaning toward cutting in the hood scoop, as a new hood is gonna require new paint. It's an older paint job and I don't think it would match very well if have to go that route. It's like a pearl blue, it kinda changes colors in light. It looks almost black at night. Dark cherry would probably look sweet on that 70 Riviera though.

Been trying to get all the loose ends done on my Chevelle, right now working on wiring in the electric fans , and finishing the vintage air controls. Still got a long way to go o fire it. Never enough time in the days with other obligations.

Personally I would rather not have nerf bars at all. But I had to order and install a set cause I found myself sliding off the seat when climbing out . Was worried about wearing the seat out. It also makes it easier for my girlfriend to climb in and out. I spent 349.00$ on a set of ICI magnum RT steps. They weigh like 30-35 lbs a piece, they bolt into the rocker and they are very sturdy, and I haven't seen another truck on the road that has them yet. Been trying to upload a picture but it's not letting me