https://harnessdr.com/product-category/jump-seat-to-center-console-conversion/ You may contact @pgamboa through his website (which is above) as he may have some validating to due and he's a very busy guy and get's a lot of PMs. He also may be able to get you a brand new console set up too if you haven't already bought one.
I put DL3 mirrors on my 2010 LT back in the day. GM did some major changes electronically between 2009 and 2010. It required a complete rewire of my truck, with new latches (due to installing Denali door panels), door switches and custom BCM programming. I don't know exactly what it'd take but since you have an LTZ, it won't be as in-depth as I assume the body harness should be good having the needed circuits but may need new door harnesses. You'll need to land the circuits for the running lights and cargo spotlight still like the non-powerfold aftermarket mirrors require that are available. You may need to switch connector ends so the newer style mirrors match up. Possible flashing of your BCM to enable the DL3 (powerfold) option. You'll need new door switches for sure, at least the driver's. Have you searched if any one removed the DPN mirrors to install DL3 mirrors on the 900 series trucks? That'd be your best bet I assume and then look into the needed changes in order to get the DQS mirrors fully operational. I apologize I'm not much help but maybe gives you some ideas that you hadn't already thought about above.
You can buy various Echomaster/Intellihaul packages. Also, vendors like MVI and possibly WAMS can help you out with adding cameras and what it would take. Custom HMI programming may be needed at times depending on the route you want to go. I personally went through MVI to add the CHMSL (3rd brake lamp) camera to my 2016 2500 that is activated by a switch. I installed the complete Intellihaul system (front, both sides and CHMSL) on my brothers 2018 3500 that he purchased through MVI at a competitive price about a year ago now. My brother loves the Intellihaul system for what it's worth. I've thought about buying Echomaster's front camera system as it would be very nice for when pulling into my garage as my sensors don't accurately pick up my mower that sits in front of my pickup but I just haven't wanted to spend the $450 for the system as that's usually the price I find for just the front. If you purchased just the front system and added the CHMSL camera, you'll probably be around $600 for it if you install it yourself.
I highly recommend the Xpel especially if you have any color besides white or silver. Yes it is pricey but as soft as the paint is on these newer vehicles, it doesn't stand up to much as I've seen too many front ends on the K2s that the paint has "blistered" off from small rock chips so I assume the T1 would be the same. I had a black color-matched 900 series truck and it got sand blasted at a mere 4,000 miles due to a semi drifting off into the shoulder on a 2-lane road I was traveling on. My paint never "blistered" but all the white specks made me invest in the Xpel for my black K2. I've been caught behind a few semis which have pitted my windshield but all my paint still looks great. The self-healing property of the Xpel does work as I had spots visible in the film immediately after getting caught in those situations but after a couple days, they disappeared. The warranty that comes with the Xpel will replace the film if it becomes majorly damaged. I live in a rural area so the roads I regularly travel on are 2-lane and have more fine to medium gravel on them so I had Xpel installed on the full front end including the grille, lights, full front fenders, larger hood protection along with the a-pillars, roof, mirrors, and rocker panels on my 2016 Silverado at 7,800 miles. It helps hide the few blemishes that I had already obtained and my pickup looks better than my brothers white 2018 Sierra which has substantial chips. Again, it is pricey but the protection is amazing and I will do it again for my next vehicle if it has a painted bumper/front end. Also, with how much these cost nowadays, I wanted to keep mine looking as good as possible for as long as possible as I will have my K2 for the long haul which is why I also invested in paint correction and ceramic coating. Regarding the brush guard, I'm a no-go as I personally don't like them but it's your pickup.
The wiring for the 110v outlet is part of the dash harness. You will also need the inverter that is in the dash to get it operational. The portion of the inverter wiring is wrapped in orange tape and the inverter is located down and to the right of the IC and above the accelerator pedal. The module can be seen in the pic nearly directly in the middle partially hidden behind the cross bar support. I believe I saw @pgamboa answer another member regarding this but I don't remember in what thread.
The steering column shaft is splined where the steering wheel attaches to it. It is possible that during the replacement of the column, that the steering wheel was installed one spline off causing the steering wheel to be offset. The steering angle sensor should be relearned at least. If you have no warning messages about stabilitrak/traction control, then the steering angle sensor should be good. I do think it is wise to do a toe adjustment after replacing parts like that to ensure everything is centered but warranty probably doesn't pay for that since most columns have a centering point to match on the steering wheel which would explain why it wasn't done and they're wanting you to pay for one. Due to what was replaced, for pure customer satisfaction, a good dealership would do an alignment for you. If the vehicle pulls/drifts to one side and you're holding the steering wheel offset to keep going straight, then replacing those parts would not have an affect on your situation but either road crown, a tire or caster/camber is off causing the pull/drift.
It will physically fit onto it but it won't go all the way down on the inside "walls" where the bin is that is part of the main console base. If you're running 2 cupholders, it won't be readily noticeable unless you remove them. If you use a complete 14-15 console but with 16+ electronics, it won't matter obviously I had the same idea for my 2016 when I bought the kit a while back to replace my tartan trim with synthesis but I personally didn't care for the gap. It was just a small detail that bugged me and I didn't want to buy a whole new console when I already had one.
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