I highly recommend the Xpel especially if you have any color besides white or silver. Yes it is pricey but as soft as the paint is on these newer vehicles, it doesn't stand up to much as I've seen too many front ends on the K2s that the paint has "blistered" off from small rock chips so I assume the T1 would be the same. I had a black color-matched 900 series truck and it got sand blasted at a mere 4,000 miles due to a semi drifting off into the shoulder on a 2-lane road I was traveling on. My paint never "blistered" but all the white specks made me invest in the Xpel for my black K2. I've been caught behind a few semis which have pitted my windshield but all my paint still looks great. The self-healing property of the Xpel does work as I had spots visible in the film immediately after getting caught in those situations but after a couple days, they disappeared. The warranty that comes with the Xpel will replace the film if it becomes majorly damaged. I live in a rural area so the roads I regularly travel on are 2-lane and have more fine to medium gravel on them so I had Xpel installed on the full front end including the grille, lights, full front fenders, larger hood protection along with the a-pillars, roof, mirrors, and rocker panels on my 2016 Silverado at 7,800 miles. It helps hide the few blemishes that I had already obtained and my pickup looks better than my brothers white 2018 Sierra which has substantial chips. Again, it is pricey but the protection is amazing and I will do it again for my next vehicle if it has a painted bumper/front end. Also, with how much these cost nowadays, I wanted to keep mine looking as good as possible for as long as possible as I will have my K2 for the long haul which is why I also invested in paint correction and ceramic coating. Regarding the brush guard, I'm a no-go as I personally don't like them but it's your pickup.
BlkSS replied to pgamboa's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsThe wiring for the 110v outlet is part of the dash harness. You will also need the inverter that is in the dash to get it operational. The portion of the inverter wiring is wrapped in orange tape and the inverter is located down and to the right of the IC and above the accelerator pedal. The module can be seen in the pic nearly directly in the middle partially hidden behind the cross bar support. I believe I saw @pgamboa answer another member regarding this but I don't remember in what thread.
The steering column shaft is splined where the steering wheel attaches to it. It is possible that during the replacement of the column, that the steering wheel was installed one spline off causing the steering wheel to be offset. The steering angle sensor should be relearned at least. If you have no warning messages about stabilitrak/traction control, then the steering angle sensor should be good. I do think it is wise to do a toe adjustment after replacing parts like that to ensure everything is centered but warranty probably doesn't pay for that since most columns have a centering point to match on the steering wheel which would explain why it wasn't done and they're wanting you to pay for one. Due to what was replaced, for pure customer satisfaction, a good dealership would do an alignment for you. If the vehicle pulls/drifts to one side and you're holding the steering wheel offset to keep going straight, then replacing those parts would not have an affect on your situation but either road crown, a tire or caster/camber is off causing the pull/drift.
It will physically fit onto it but it won't go all the way down on the inside "walls" where the bin is that is part of the main console base. If you're running 2 cupholders, it won't be readily noticeable unless you remove them. If you use a complete 14-15 console but with 16+ electronics, it won't matter obviously I had the same idea for my 2016 when I bought the kit a while back to replace my tartan trim with synthesis but I personally didn't care for the gap. It was just a small detail that bugged me and I didn't want to buy a whole new console when I already had one.
The the 14-15 upper console assembly with removable cupholder doesn't fit the 2016+ consoles "properly" leaving a gap in the inside area at the bottom where the bins are at leaving an unfinished look.
BlkSS replied to GTPprix's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra Mods@BluEyeItln, if you have those RPO code(s), then yes as those are just superceded P/Ns with each step down. @Dana Helmly Jr., Chris posted US cluster P/Ns. My experience has been with 1 number off is the difference between US (MPH) vs KPH clusters. US clusters will be 0-140 and KPH I believe is 0-200.
Yes. Purchase the HDMI Input that I installed from MVI. It will splice into the AUX input. That is what I use for my Fire Stick, Chromecast and game systems. I installed it in place of one of my power ports because it also has a USB port with the HDMI port that you can use to charge if you wire it in as well.
I posted that for anyone who may find this thread before finding Chris's. I noted "Please READ" so hopefully people will use that thread for pertinent questions instead of muddying it up with useless comments or questions that would be answered by READING. On my previous post where I quoted you @AlljackedupZ71, that is why I suggested directly contacting dealers or other businesses like Specmo, Pace Performance, etc INSTEAD of relying on ebay, etc. Also why I mentioned to contact WAMS from their website to see what all you need to make a 2016 cluster fit in your 2014. Also, Specmo offers cheap 1-day shipping as I have purchased from them before and was very happy. I've also used the dealership and ebay for a cluster as well but recommend Specmo. I did call Pace and they were comparable to Specmo but Specmo was new versus refurbished from Pace and Specmo was still slightly cheaper, even after the 1-day shipping.
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