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If you mount it under the passenger seat inside the cab there is an access plug you can drill through. I used a uni-bit and sealtite conduit from Lowe’s. This was 1/2 inch but 3/4 would fit.

Here are the part numbers I ordered 12/28/2019. The numbers could have changed but these were all the parts necessary to make the switches work. 84497098 Harness $86.95 84524205 Battery cable $39.01 84669070 F Block kit $38.05 84688687 Multi Switch $20.07 84487354 Knee Bolster $44.86 (this was black). Hope these numbers are still valid... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

My AT4 didn’t have the option so I ordered the parts and installed it. All the parts were $287.58 including tax and shipping. I did not install the knee bolster, I just used it as a template and cut a hole in the existing one with a utility knife. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Are you going to mount the bed camera on the interior of the shell and the rear view camera on the shark fin? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Not enough time to try the HF rig in the truck yet. I installed 300 ft of hardline, rotor cable and relay wire in the trench between my hamshack and tower today. Here are a few pics of the VHF install, the HF rig could be installed the same way... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

W7GES - I installed a Kenwood 710 dual band. I ran power from the upfitter switch to my drivers rear under seat compartment. Antenna coax I routed from the stake pocket through a hole drilled under the rear seat. I used Seal Tite conduit for the coax. I mounted the head unit to a Ram mount on the dash tray above the infotainment screen. I can hook up my TS-480 sometime this week and let you know if I hear any RFI. I’ll also transmit and see if there is any problem with the truck... My 2016 2500 Duramax did not have issues but... there are lots of computers on these trucks and I hope this one is quiet on receive and trouble free on transmit. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks! I did most of the install. I bought the new knee bolster but decided to use it to make a template and just cut the hole for the switch. I ran the wire across the engine compartment and through the grommet. I didn’t get started until 5:30 and ran out of light. Tomorrow I will find the end of the wire under the dash, put it in the plug and then connect the battery end. It took me around two hours so far... The last 1/2 hour was spent searching for the power wire in the driver’s knee well. I should have given up and waited for daylight. It will also probably help to have a second person move the power wire while you’re under the dash so you can see it easier. I’m going to hook up a ham radio, an air compressor and eventually some extra lights. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Can someone post a picture of where the small fuse box is mounted? My switch and harness arrived today. Thanks George

I didn’t say Direct TV uses RG59 or RG58. I said they use F-connectors... They use RG6 because it is lower loss at the microwave frequencies they are using than RG59. RG58 is 50 ohm RG59 is 75 ohm. At the signal levels used here they would be interchangeable but I didn’t suggest that. Putting a splitter won’t damage your camera. Even if you were so incompetent that you inverted the signal and ground it wouldn’t hurt the camera. The voltage that powers the camera is supplied by the truck. I would put a 50 ohm terminating cap resistor on the unused terminal. It wouldn’t be a good idea to ground the unused terminal. I will order a camera. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I looked under my truck today. The camera cable is RG-58, 50 ohm coax. If I had damage to the connector I would just replace it with a compression F connector. Direct TV uses these outdoors in all US climate zones. Put in a splitter and you can have jacks for your 5th wheel and on your bumper. I would cut off the camera plug and replace wi a F connector as well. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

It looks like that is coaxial cable, not triaxial. They could send power and signal on the same cable. Just like they do with Direct TV satellite dishes. It makes aftermarket cameras more difficult... If you know any Ham Radio operators one of them could probably crimp or solder a different connector (maybe a SMA)? You would need to do this on both the truck end and camera end. Search for RG58 SMA connector on You Tube there is a video that shows how to install a crimp on connector if you have the Hex crimper. If you were in Phoenix I could install the connectors in a few minutes, there is bound to be someone that could do it in your area. When I have time I will see how much extra coax there is under the truck. If there’s a little slack it would be easy to cut the coax and put connectors on both ends. I could add a set of camera jacks in the bed for a fifth wheel or gooseneck. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Another great option would be the ability to have the side mirror view on the 8 inch display when the turn signals are on and there is no trailer hooked up. I had this set up on my 2016 HD 2500 with the Aftermarket cameras and I think it works better than the blind spot sensors (especially if your wife is watching the screen!). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I just bought a 2020 Sierra 2500 HD AT4. Is there a part number that will let me order the knee bolster, switch assembly and fuse block kit or do I need to order these separately? Also is the bolster the same part number as the 2019 1500 as in the eBay link? I would use these switches to power a ham radio or two, maybe some auxiliary lighting and relays to power a air compressor. Thanks! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

The antenna mount looks really nice. I forgot to mention that the radio faceplates look crooked in the pictures but are “square” to the drivers viewpoint if I need to glance at them. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I mounted the control head of my Icom 5100 where the sunglass holder is. I can remove it and close the sunglass door as the Ram mount is quick to remove. The Kenwood TS 480 control head is mounted with another Ram mount in the large cavity in front of the cup holder. I originally had mounted my CTS Edge there but didn’t like it that low so I moved it near the drivers A pillar handle and mounted the radio head here. The auto-tune panel for the screwdriver antenna is tucked away in the console map pocket unless I’m using the Kenwood ( I stick a piece of Velcro on the dash and stick it on there). I ran the control cable above the headliner from the radio in the back seat. The power in the overhead console has a very small wire so I ran a larger one to power my dash cam. The power for the radios came from the upfitter plug by the driver side kick panel. I ran the coax in the cab through a hole I drilled near the rear seat cabin vent. If you run the coax through the vent the rubber flap will never close. I hope I was able to give you a few ideas. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro