Epsilon Plus

Same fit. I prefer the 2019 pan as there is one less leak spot. As mentioned though the BET comes with a regular drain plug though. I recommend a magnetic one for a few bucks more from a parts house. FWIW, to future researchers, a 6L80 pan will not fit and is shorter.

Ok, so after identifying and tracking down the last part I needed (the intake portion under the vanity vent that is a closeout to the bare hood), I finally have a completed parts list. Without further ado: 84520314 - Bright Chrome Hood Ornamentation Vent 85126004 - Rear Intake Air Duct 84684674 - Front Intake Air Duct 84670713 - Intermediate Intake Air Duct 85614333 - Air Cleaner 84182769 - Hood Insulator 84496061 - Front Intake Air Duct Cover 85135957 - Front Intake Air Duct Adapter 11611677 - Hood Insulator Retainer (11) 11612035 - Push-Pin (4) 11570015 - M6x1.0 Cage Nut (8) 11570173 - M6x1.0x30mm Flanged Bolt (8) Non-GM: Straight Reducer Coupler Silicone Hose ID 3-3/4-inch to 4-inch 4-Ply with Stainless Steel T-Bolt Clamp for Turbo/Intercooler/Intake Piping - This is for clamping the large side to the airbox and sticking the small side in the stock airduct and synching it down on it. H6 Battery My total cost shipped for everything was $671.95. The prototype GM kit for this that was never released is listed at $820+ About double the cost of an S&B. The value of having a functional hood? Priceless. You could probably save a bunch of money going to a junkyard and gutting a hood for the intakes, grab the airbox, the vanity hood vent thing that sucks to buy since its an accessory and therefore overpriced...etc. Yeah, yeah, cue all the "it doesn't do anything! Stock is fine! Waste of money!". Yes. I'm well aware of the target demographic of this truck. Settle down Grandpa, some of us like to hotrod, mod and experiment with stuff. Remember what that was like? I shipped some things to the house through GMpartsdirect and other things I bought through parts.gm official and sent to the dealer. Things like the hood insulator are like $35 total dollars amazingly but obviously its a million dollars to ship, so that's a good dealer item. The (4) push pins are to hold down the aforementioned "Air Duct Adapter" under the vanity Vent. The nuts and bolts are for bolting the intake to the hood. Sizes are listed because these little things cost a fortune from GM but are super cheap through Amazon (get the push pins there too. Look the part number up you'll know what they are. Now that the hood has a proper closeout to the intake who knows, maybe I'll get some super-duper power from it. Looks like its very engineered with little deflectors and what-not placed in it for smoothing. For those that take this on. Maybe wait until you need a battery or if you plan to do this mod, replace your stock H7 with an H6 size. There are two standoffs inside the battery tray that you can grind off so the battery will slide back all the way. After that, the front hold down goes back with it and there is a threaded hole for it. Top hold down remains. Other than that, the major DIY part of this that doesn't just drop in is heating up the front of the diesel airbox where it interferes with the oil cooler pipe with a heat gun and pressing it back with a can or something contoured. Post questions in this thread. Also, if you make a custom intake tube to the TB post that too so I can copy it lol. We'll need a SAE J2044 quick connect fitting to deal with the PCV and a silicone coupling that fits over the 3 & 7/8 TB. Need about 14" of intake piping. Probably a sharp 90 off the TB to clear the clutch fan bracket then a straight shot to the airbox if we're lucky. Hopefully don't need 22s to make the angle. Cheers.

Coincide as in if you put the 2019 style BET pan on without the fill plug in the back like the 2020+ pan has you'll have no easy way to refill the transmission without the dipstick tube to pour it down. The 2020+ pan is designed for them to pump the fluid into the back of the pan in some PITA under the car, on a lift, engine running, oil hot horsecrap. Doing the dipstick and the pan is doing the transmission service the way techs have been doing it since the 60s or earlier. The way God intended.

Any parts gurus ( @newdude ) wanna hop in on this and take a shot at the full list? After looking at ebay and junkyard options with various levels of schmutz on them at $500+ this doesn't seem like an unreasonable option...

Used this today and it worked great. I used a 22mm deep socket to seat the new seal. Little Dexron lube on her and send her home. Trans filter went in with (2) solid clicks. There's a plastic stand-off about mid-way down on the filter that rests against the underside of the valve body to let you know you're all the way in. Cheers.

Installed the BET Performance 6L90 pan this weekend. Was considering a PML pan for the longest time but ended up with BET for a few reasons. 1) steel vs aluminum fits the more rugged theme of my truck and works with the stock pan magnet better. 2) although you can get a stock depth PML, I don't like the fact that it comes with that stupid 2020+ level check plug in the rear. Just another reason to leak. I also certainly don't want a large aluminum pan hanging down low on a potential off-road/overland platform. 3) PMLs $375 price before shipping...etc is outrageous. The BET pan was $166.94 to the door. Its just a stock 2019 style steel pan with a drain bung/plug installed. The plug it comes with is just a standard oil drain plug though so for $7.79 more, I ordered a Dorman magnetic drain plug for it (M12x1.75). The BET pan is a 2019 and previous style so it doesn't have the level check plug. This pan mod needs to coincide with the 6L90 Dipstick Mod to work as you'll be putting the fluid back in through the tube and checking the level the way God intended. Tips for pan drop/installation: -Remove the stock fill plug and let it drain. Mine did a good 4 qts out. -Remove all but 4-corners worth of pan bolts, then remove the back bolts and let the stock pan lean back draining even more out of the factory fill plug. -Use/build the 6L80/90 Seal Puller Tool. I built one just like this for a few bucks and it worked perfectly. Reinstall seal with a 24MM socket on an extension and wack it in. The 6L90 is a beast of a transmission. Change the fluid and filter on it at regular intervals and it will last and perform great. FWIW I dropped this pan at 28,000 miles of city use Arizona temps. The transfer case fluid was dirty and blackish red. Make sure to get that out and change it too. An 8mm allen key and a cheap Qt Fluid Pump is all you need. Takes about 2qts. My pan drop on the trans took about 8. Make sure to check the trans with the temp at least 145 but closer to 170 for expansion. Very difficult to see clean fluid on the stick so try different light angles or a flashlight. Check in park after going through the gears engine running. Start the pan off with about 6 qts after pan drop before starting truck. Cheers.

Peek-A-Boo! If anyone is interested in a good companion mod to this, here's a 2019 style steel stock pan with a drain plug that doesn't use the stupid back port fill thingy:

For accuracy, best to hand calculate for those really interested and trusting of their stock DIC read-outs. After 28,000 miles and 3.75 years, my truck has been dead consistently .7-1.0mpg too optimistic (usually .7). If I get 12 the real is 11.3. If I get 11.4 the real is 10.7...etc. Every time. Since my truck is city use only with miniscule highway use, I average 10.5-11.5 mpg depending on whether school is in session and I have to wait in the pickup line. Good thing I barely leave my zip code and only do like 7,000 miles a year or this would be a spendy truck to taxi around town.

Gold Plug IP03X says it works. Guess I'll match it against the fill plug and see if it works. AI seems to think it's tapered design putting all the measurements up against the AC Delco stock plug will work. I'll report back.

H6 battery size worked perfect. Clipped a centering pin off the bottom of the hold down and grinded off two tabs inside the battery tray that were meant to hold the original longer H7 size. With that done, the H6 slid into factory diesel position complete with a pre tapped hold down bolt hole. This allowed the perfect factory clearance of the diesel airbox to battery and allowed me to snap back down the battery/fuse cover. Everything is zipped up and fully functional, so here it is. The worlds first (I guess) L8T with fully functional L5P intake. I suppose if I wanted to keep playing with it I could make a custom intake tube and ditch the Helmholtz resonator, but for now I'm happy. Full parts list and bullet point how-to to follow as soon as I find time.

Certain states still have weird parking laws and commercial registration costs for things with a GVWR higher than 10,000lb. In the Ram world, the 2500 is on coils in the rear and the 3500 is on leafs, so there is ride quality implications.

Ram pre-Stellantis pricing was doing diesel crew 4x4 base models (up until 2020ish) for 45k when GM and Ford were 55k. Now they are all priced about the same out the wazoo so you'll see the newer Rams fall off. Especially since they are using a 2007 bed and cab style/size.

@carkhz316 Much appreciated, thank you.

Any GM technicians or people with access to VSP/Global Connect/TDS able to log in and grab the Trim Height Specifications for our HD trucks? All of them would be nice but I'm specifically looking for gas ZR2 HD. I have all the torque specs, how to measure Z Trim height....etc but I spaced grabbing the Trim Height Specs. Would be good info to have. Thanks.

So far I've found that M22 x 1.50 with a 30mm head might be the ticket. Not confirmed though.

I had a Circle D in my GTO. Very good reputation and good customer service that I had with them although that was 15 years ago. Back then in the heat of the LSx performance days them and FTI were the hot companies. Don't be scared by race car stuff. If they can build a race converter/trans they can build a truck one too. Pretty much all the same stuff except for trans they might not be as aggressive on valve body pressure and with converter they will set the stall to stock if you ask. If my stuff ever goes out the dealer can pound sand, I'm calling Circle D and getting built stuff to put in.

I'm still hunting around with this. I plugged the 1.02mm difference into AI against my stock 4800lb rate and told it length was approx. 59" It calculated a rate of 4345lb with the 1.02mm drop which is awfully close the the 4400lb lowest available GM stock bar. Also, if you plug "33293 torsion bar" into Google you'll find 19332932 which is a discontinued torsion bar from a 2000 2500. I'd still like to know what the bar rate thing is on the parts.gmparts site. If you look up the 4400 bars (driver is 84745473) in the fitment notes it says BAR RATE= 190 My 4800 bar (driver 84745477) says 212. That is a -10.37% difference. AI had that 4345 bar at a 9.5% difference from 4800. 4800 to 4400 is a -8.33% difference. There are some 2wd work trucks that end up around me sometimes. I need to get under one and do some digging next opportunity and see if they are the ones that get the 4400 bars (likely).

The worst part is its been a well known thing since at least 2022.

No. The gains, if any, won't show themselves until after headers, cam, proper unrestrictive tune, anything that makes the engine truly breathe better. Maybe one day I'll get rich and stick 2" primary headers, an LT2 cam, and a real tune on the truck but I don't think the 10.5-11mpg I average now is going to get any better

Perhaps @newdude can shed some light on the differences in rate between the (3) leaf spring packs shown in online GM parts catalogs. Referencing a 2022 2500 HD, we have 87838965 Code 8am/9am (the ones I have listed in my RPO codes for my gas 4x4 crew) 87838966 Code 8an/9an 87838967 Code 8ap/9ap I can't find any info on which one is listed at which rate. Interestingly enough, General Spring sells three different spring packs marketed as OE replacements that are 2700#, 3400#, and 4500#. I wonder if these correspond? I also have a suspicion that the lightest rated pack is going to be the Cognito Comfort Ride pack just bought from GM and marked up 100% Any thoughts? Thanks.

I run carbon and change every oil change. I have recirc on 99% of the time.

I added a Pulsar LT for tire size massaging. It's also a throttle massager like the Pedal Commander. On level 3, 30% more response than stock, not only does it make the truck feel like all the advertised torque is actually there, improves the heck out of response and drivability, but it lessens the clunk quite a bit. Probably because it is still under a bit of throttle on the dump.

Brake caliper torque specs: Brake Caliper Torque Specs.pdf

Rear Suspension w/ Torque Specs Rear Leaf Spring Replacement.pdf Rear Suspension Torque Specs.pdf

Knuckle: Steering Knuckle Replacement.pdf