Epsilon Plus

Look them up and get them from Summit Racing or somewhere "real". I had a new 5100 leak after like 3,000 miles that I got from an Amazon vendor. Bilstein was a PITA to deal with as far as warranty because they force you to go through the vendor. Well, you can imagine that Joe's Drop Ship Chop Shop or whoever is selling them on Amazon was a pain to get a hold of or deal with. Amazon even makes it very difficult to contact ghosty vendors. Summit would have processed the return immediately without trouble. It's not worth the buck saved. Also, I drove around for a few weeks without a rear shock while I waited for the replacement. No difference. Potholes and speedbumps aren't going to compress my 3500lb payload leafs. Loaded with a trailer would have been different, but with sailboat fuel everyone hoping for any ride change is or those that say it's different are justifying their purchase. On 5100s with 37x12.5R18s at 40psi my wife can't even take a drink of water without wearing it riding in this truck on Arizona's perfect pavement. You bought a big monster truck. It rides like ass. F'in way she goes boys (Trailer Park Boys Ray voice). PS. For 20-23 owners looking for TPMS adjustment, I use the Pulsar LT with great results. Even GM still sends me diagnostic emails and my 45psi setting shows up "Green" and ok on their end

Shocks will do nothing as the springs are hard to compress in these trucks unless loaded heavy. Cognito comfort ride torsion bars for front and rear leafs is the only"softening" suspension option at a -25% load capacity penalty. Large sidewall tires (35/37s on 17/18" wheels) running 45psi can help as well. You'll need something to relax the TPMS threshold so you don't get a low tire light doing that. Not sure about it there's anything for 24+ that do that though since they went to Global B electronics.

Finally got around to it. GM 18" steel wheel w/ 37x12.50 cheapo-spare. Fits perfect. Snug against heat shield and a couple hairs away from the receiver for a knobby 37.

These trucks ride so rough stock I'd imagine getting a key-n-crank kit wouldn't be helping that at all. Not sure how else these trucks could be "leveled" without torsion key cranking or new key sets. Just remember what it does to your ball joint and CV angles. That's why I went through the PITA of doing the ZR2 swap.

I thought about doing this but then thought it might not look very good against a chrome bumper. All of the factory trucks with red hooks are painted bumper trucks.

Yes. This necessitates the use of 3500 U-Bolts. The only other ZR2 part in the rear besides shocks is a plastic jounce bumper extension that slips over the stock pad and clips in on it's own.

The auto has a clutch pack in it. When it is in auto, it holds at like 10 or 15% until rear wheel slip happens, then it engages. It's worth the money if ordering a truck. Most main roads are plowed and dry-ish and side streets are not in snowy city areas (like Flagstaff or east of the Rockies). Constantly switching in and out *could* be annoying if you live there. If you just visit like me, it's not a big deal. Push a button, done. I would have checked the box if I ordered my truck though.

What size is your silicone at the TB? I'm in the process of building one for my gas HD using the factory diesel hood intake bits. I'm thinking 4" should work @ the TB. What did you use for the PCV/catch can to hold it in the elbow? Thanks.

Has been working great here. Bought mainly for tire size and TPMS modding. I keep the throttle at 30% over stock and it makes the truck feel like it should from the factory. Kills the sluggish hesitation and makes the truck feel like the 464tq is there. Also reduces the 2>1 shift clunk on deceleration.

Same here, which unfortunately adds a brutal $375+ to the basic filter change I still need to do my TCase which GM wants at 22,500 on the severe chart. Only holds 2.4qt and my desert city truck is 99.9% 2wd so doesn't get much duty, forget severe. I realize it still has stuff moving in there in 2wd but @ 24,000mi I'm waiting to do it with the transmission fluid. I'd like to get a magnetic plug for the TCase but may not know the size until I pull the plug and gauge it. PML also has a front diff cover I'm waiting on and have submitted R&D photos for but that's taking ages. A full PML front to back cover/pan set with a mag diff plug would check an expensive to-do list box for me.

I've considered getting just the outlet and wiring my own inverter to it. Just for the sake of using the factory dash location. It's got two prongs on the back that look to be possibly useful.

Unlike the Colorado and Silverado 1500 Trail Boss, the HD Trail Boss has no suspension lift. It's only a vanity pack on the HD. The ZR2 HD has the 1.5" suspension lift front and rear.

It's only a 1.5 foot run. As ghetto as it sounds I might try a Fernco and 4" PVC run and if it works wrap it in carbon fiber tape or at least it will be a mock up for a spendy silicon pipe. I don't mind losing the big ugly Hemholtz. Will allow more intake noise. Just need to adapt (or delete) the PCV feed from the valve cover in that case.

PITA Hemholtz resonator is the next hurdle. Accordian plenum is a touch small and out of place. Will need to make a custom tube and get rid of that massive thing.

A little heat gun massage may have us back in business. Stay tuned.

Shocks will do nothing to soften the ride of such a heavily sprung truck unless you are fully loaded or towing heavy. Those monster springs need to compress before the shock can dampen the compression and rebound. These trucks have payloads of 3,000+lbs. Those springs aren't easily compressed by potholes and speed bumps. As far as a factory driving level kit, the king of kings is the ZR2 suspension swap. Pros are factory suspension geometry, fit 37s, and low cost parts. Cons are it's not for wrench novices and consists of the same amount of work as doing a full 4"+ lift kit for a mere 1.5".

My 22 LT will turn heated seats/wheel on after remote start if the temperature on the radio is 59'F or below.

This is the route I went when doing my suspension swap. Once you are in there, go darn near everywhere and print everything to PDF. Takes a while, but the info and highlighted graphics step by step are gold and direct from GM.

Might be related to why so many FB group posts about 10 speeds eating valve bodies and the supposed national backorder on them.

Sounds like social media kid or intern horsecrap. There's no difference in bar length or position from any trim 2500 or 3500. The only thing different is the spring rate within the bar. As far as the transfer case skid goes, it mounts to the same front holes although ZR2 uses two of the three bolts from Z71. The skid lays against the curved rear crossmember form-fit style. The 2024+ trucks MIGHT have the rear skid holes predrilled/tapped just like all 4x4s have the Z71 skid holes predrilled/tapped. Someone with a 24+ has yet to comment on whether they are there or not.

True "ram air" would require jet engine velocities. Automobile engines are large vacuum pumps. They will draw in what they need from wherever you put the inlet. The only purpose for external (outside the engine bay) feeding is for lowering air intake temperatures which for this platform is negligible since stock is so good. The functional hood on the Duramax is mostly a marketing gimmick mixed with another way to increase air volume without redesigning the cowl and tight front air box area. L8T gas won't benefit from this mod unless it's got a blower on it or pushing over 600HP IMO.

Looks promising......

There's a small chance the Banks would work. It looks like it dives down right where the oil line would be. I'd need a closer picture, especially from a horizontal angle if anyone has one. If the point of that box sits lower than where the line would be, we could have an option. Additionally, the Banks would be easer to adapt to the L8T throttle body since it has a short fixed pipe and goes right to flexible bellows. Would be a decent mod to have that box and get rid of the stock Helmholtz resonator in the process.

The only purpose to the diesel hood mod is for OCD weirdos like me who A) Don't like fake scoops on automobiles B) Up until the oil cooler line it was a factory swap with factory parts C) Was willing to throw some money at a cool factory mod since I like most of my stuff to come from GM when possible (see sig). The only performance benefit would be with a max effort power build squeezing every last drop out which is more of a Camaro or fast car thing, not a lumbering truck thing. Most of this was covered in the original swap thread here.

I am the farthest along with the swap. I have 100% of the parts and 95% of them installed. The problem with the diesel hood intake on the gas is an oil cooler line that conflicts with where the diesel airbox is. The diesel airbox is longer and protrudes into the area where this hard oil cooler line terminates into the radiator. Short of doing some type of plastic welding wizardry to the air lid, to proceed the "easiest" (lol) way is to convert that hard oil line into a flexible AN line or buy some tubing and bend one yourself. I am not familiar with GMs connection style at the radiator. Looks like it plugs into the fitting and uses a copper snap ring to hold it in place and has a plastic cover that slips over. Something tells me there is a chance there is a way to adapt to this and route the oil line away but I've taken a long break from this project and am barely scratching at it once in a while when time permits (it doesn't). Even so, it would need such a hard bend to clear the box that it still probably wouldn't work. A 90' AN fitting probably also sticks out farther than the stock line. What you see below is the diesel lower box and filter fully installed. Note where the lid would sit and seal and the forward most screw hole directly under the line. No bueno. The easier option than even this might just be running an aftermarket external oil cooler with custom AN braided lines. There are block adapters sold that would work. What we really need is the designed and never released gas air box for the diesel hood intake. Not going to happen. Nor will an aftermarket solution come to the rescue. S&B and Banks diesel are also probably just as long as the stock box and would hit the line and also they use a hard upper discharge pipe to the differently placed TB location instead of the flexible stock one so again, no bueno. Sucks to be so close and fail but thems the breaks.