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todd308

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Everything posted by todd308

  1. As a further update it does appear to be due to the wiper arm itself, not the wiper blade. So when I replaced the wiper blade in spring it worked a bit better but not for long. Recently I replaced the wiper blade again (all wiper blades were the GM OEM version), it did not help, however when I replaced the wiper arm itself the issue is gone......for now. I can only conclude that somehow the wiper arm is losing spring, or getting bent during use etc. One other thing I did is you can "clock" the wiper arm a bit if you want to make it not sweep quite as far out (less windshield curve) so I adjusted it so it stops about 1/2" sooner, however even when clocked at the same position as the original arm it cured the streaking issue. Seems like the only answer is every spring to buy new OEM wipers, and a drivers replacement wiper arm for $15.
  2. That's completely ridiculous, but not surprising, GM is clearly assuming you are a total idiot with such a response. While I'm sure many parts are different, It would be interesting to see if this happens with the 6.2 Camero/Corvette. The reality is unfortunately these noises seem "normal" for this Truck/Engine, however it's NOT normal for a new vehicle, and it doesn't change the fact that it sounds like it belongs in a junkyard when it cold starts, restarts at stop lights, and downshifts.
  3. Not sure, but prices are going up, ZR2 MSRP for 23' is going up another $1500 over what's currently on the web page for a 22' ZR2
  4. Yep, it sounds like they plan to remove it being a line item and just include it onto the MSRP so people stop realizing they are charging them $900-$1700 for an onStar subscription depending on model. Brilliant by GM, can't get people to pay you $50 a month for onStar, just make it a mandatory option.
  5. Yep that sounds like it, mine has a little more "flutter" to it, but same thing, goes away after 20-30 seconds, but you can also hear it for a few seconds after a restart at a stop light, and if you are driving say in an alley or along a building you can hear it doing it when the truck downshifts at low speeds. I believe it has to be DFM related, if I run the truck in L-9 it goes away when shifting (it won't auto start/stop in L-9 so no testing that or cold startup). It's also probably why GM can't/won't do anything about it and simply considers it "Normal Operation"
  6. Yeah it will probably just have to wait till it gets worse, or the AC fails. It's too intermittent unfortunately at this point to guarantee I can duplicate it with a ride along. It might only happen every 3-5 times I drive the truck, and even then only when the truck is first restarted cold initially when it's first being driven for say the first 10-15 minutes of city driving, won't ever do it on the highway.
  7. I've noticed that sometimes driving my 21' AT4 6.2 that especially if it's hot leaving work for the day that when slowing down like coming to a stop light etc. the AC appears to shut off, the air still flows but you can feel that it gets warmer (not hot) and gets humid/musty smelling. Very similar to what it does when it would auto-off at a stop light, except the vehicle is still running. It also seems to stop doing it after driving for awhile and when just driving say on the highway I haven't noticed it happening. The problem is it doesn't do it all of the time, I had my dealer look at it, but they just said they could not replicate the issue. My 20' AT4 definitely didn't do this and overall I think it blew colder air. Just curious if anyone else has noticed similar and gotten anywhere with a dealer on it? Thanks
  8. I don't think that's quite how it works, a linear rate spring only means the spring rate increases evenly throughout it's travel, it doesn't mean that the spring has the same force throughout it's travel. So if you crank up the preload and raise the front end height it's going to stiffen the ride. The plus side is usually the aftermarket shocks (fox, billstein) are so much better than Rancho's no one notices, especially if you get the strut with the fox/bilstein matched springs. This is why strut spacers tend to maintain a factory ride better than height adjustable struts. That said, there are some other significant cons to spacers if your vehicle actually leaves the pavement and overall I'd say the adjustable height struts are a better option, of course they are also significantly more expensive, especially if you don't reuse the factory coil springs. This site does a very good job of breaking down the pros/cons of spacers -vs- height adjustable struts. https://www.shocksurplus.com/pages/lifted-and-leveling-struts-vs-strut-spacers
  9. Should you still do new UCA's with the shock based "lift" to avoid UCA failure like we see with many level kits when people don't replace the factory UCA's? I'm guessing not since all it's doing is adding spring preload stiffening the ride to get the extra height as opposed to a spacer lift.
  10. Yep, GM just shoves some sealant in there hoping it gets you to 3/36, so then the correct fix is on your dime. If it was me, considering what GM probably wants for a repair, there's some good threads here and videos on how to do it yourself. I'd probably take that route if I was out of warranty on my 21'. Partly because I'm pretty sure I'll do a better more considerate/cleaner job than I've seen dealers do. The job the dealer did on my 20' with a rear window leak looked like they let a 3 year old use it for finger painting practice with sealant. I also agree on the extended warranties if you keep a vehicle past the warranty and don't drive a huge chunk of miles. As long as you do your homework and make sure if it's not GM it's a reputable company. These days everything is so ridiculously expensive it's not hard to recoup $2k. I'd imagine since a dealer charges $1200 for a headlight for one of these trucks, that by the time they replace it, you're not far off $2k.
  11. That's pretty sneaky of GM, people won't pay them $50 a month for onstar so they just force 3 years of it onto the vehicle options/fees. I guess at least you get it for $25 a month instead.
  12. The reason they don't let you roll up remotely, is the same reason you can auto-down all 4 from the drivers door with one momentary press, and one momentary touch upward will auto close the front windows but you have to hold the rear window switches up to get them to come up. It's liability, they don't want you closing the window on something or someone you didn't see. Which is a little odd, because as many who have installed in-channel vents can attest if the window senses much friction it goes back down, but I'd imagine it's still enough force to do some nasty damage to say a kids finger, or a pets nose/ear. I don't think I have the big center infotainment button I think that's where the descent control is, though I always thought it was funny that the button is so huge, they could have put 3 buttons there.
  13. Old post, but thought it might help others with the Lo Pro cover. I've had one of these for awhile, and it leaks quite a bit at the front corners. I'm pretty meticulous so I was surprised it leaked as much as it did, when I installed it I used extra foam pieces etc. even did some silicone work where I could still see light through. Well today I was bored so I ran water over it, only took a few seconds to start leaking, and crawled under there. It was immediately obvious where it was leaking from the worst, and it's not anywhere that seals are. It's leaking mostly from the junction of the side rail with the plastic endcaps at the front and back of the side rails. Pic to help visualize, the leaking is occuring at the junction between part 26 and 15, the same is true at the rear of the side rail, but it's much less because the bed sits higher so all the water runs along the bed rails to the front corners. It doesn't look like they put any sealant on these at all. I'm going to try to seal this area up as much as possible. Ideally the side rails would be removed, the end caps removed, and sealed, but I'm hoping I can seal it from the top and underside, without removing the rails entirely. It's hard to seal it from the topside because it would interfere with the velcro slot. I do think it's interesting that you won't find anything on their website, descriptions, FAQ etc. that talks about how waterproof the covers are or leaking etc. but it's very clearly written in the user manual under troubleshooting that the covers are not designed to be water tight. At the end of the day it's probably the nature of these low profile covers, because they don't extend over the bed rails at all, and they don't stick up far enough to ensure rain runs off the bedrails it runs along the seam of the cover with the bedrail and can pool there.
  14. Agreed, I mean the popularity of the 4-runner, which is horribly underpowered with less tech in even the TRD Pro trim than a mid level Rav 4 has, along with the ridiculous popularity of the Bronco, excitement over the FJ, Hummer, etc. shows that there's clearly a HUGE market for a larger size SUV that actually has some off-road capability but isn't $80k like a Tahoe/Yukon is. Toyota has zero problems selling every 4-runner they make, even before covid dealer markups on TRD Pro trims were common and now even mid trims are getting $5k markups and selling. A K5 blazer, like the early 70's models that had a full top with a somewhat utilitarian interior (not low tech, just not luxury) and a price tag that's not $100k would sell huge. Hell even revamping the S10 blazer into something that could compete in size/off-roading with the 4-runner would sell huge. The problem with all of GM's SUV's smaller than the Tahoe/Yukon is none of them have any more business off-road than an AWD car. I think it really shows where GM is focused, I mean look at the Hummer, it's great, but it's ridiculously expensive, and it's worthless unless you want to be tied at the hip to a charger, the new $150k Escalade is another great example of something that own't benefit 99% of their customer base. Meanwhile Ford brings out the Lightening that's priced about the same as their other F150's, A bronco......A bronco Raptor. Toyota starts putting hybrid's with significantly more power than even the 6.2 in the Sequoia and Tundra. Honestly my only explanation for it is GM knows they can't compete in the head to head in the same market areas, so they avoid them and build vehicles that avoid head to head comparison. IE they don't make competition for the Raptor/TRX, they don't make competition for the Sequoia/4-runner/Grand Cherokee/Jeep, etc. They just avoid those areas Sadly I don't think we'll ever see it. Even some of the new offerings, the Defender 110, Grenadier etc. are awesome looking with a good balance of features that can still go off-road but they are $80-100k+. Even the 4-runner TRD Pro is pushing $60k in what has to be the most feature neutered $60k vehicle ever.
  15. Having drove an S10 Blazer for 20 years, and a 76' blazer for a few years, while I think the new Blazer looks sharp, it's a little bitter sweet that now the "Blazer" is just another tall car. But I'm not surprised, I mean really compact SUV's are what sells and no one wants off-road capability anymore. The 4 runner is really the only off-road SUV around now, I guess you could make a case for the Grand Cherokee. The Bronco fits in there, but not with $30k markups and 2 year waits. To show you just how much GM is out of touch with off-road......the RS trim Blazer, ya know the "sports car" trim with 7" of ground clearance.... a whole 0.3" more than a Honda Civic......they offer running boards...... Honestly it's probably just as well, all the cool cars in demand are priced so high now with market adjustments they are ridiculous......Defender 110, Bronco, etc. If they offered the new Hummer in a gas motor they couldn't make enough of them. Rivin SUV (minus the headlights) the same way, same with the FJ coming up. Lots of great looking off-road SUV's around that are all electric making them basically worthless off the beaten path.
  16. I've had this noise in both my 20' and 21' AT4 6.2's. I can say it varies, in my 20' I only ever heard it at cold startup and restarting from the autostop for a bit. In my 21' I also hear it when downshifting, and it seems like it's getting louder/lasting longer over time. It's also interesting that you don't hear it in other 6.2 cars like the Camero I've heard, but I don't know what the real differences in those two engine systems are. It's a good thing I can turn off the autostop because when it restarts from a light it sounds like it belongs in a junk yard for about 5 seconds. Bad enough it sounds like a rattle trap for 30 seconds when I first start it after it's sat for awhile. I'd say GM should be ashamed but considering the lifters and rear window leaks they probably feel this is low on the priority list!
  17. Just curious if anyone has ever got this noise diagnosed/fixed? My 21' seems to have the same noise, it also does it at autostart from a light, and cold start, and when downshifting at low speeds, seems like it's getting worse/louder as time goes on.
  18. It's true GM has never really been successful in marketing an off-road vehicle.....even the ZR2 S10's were not that well received. The Z71 package has always been a joke, just some moderate tires and shocks and a Z71 sticker. GM has always done better making SS vehicles, they'd probably do better making another SS street pickup with a supercharged 6.2 in it. Prices are insane right now, but I'll say it and guys won't like it......the ZR2 and AT4x are still way behind the Raptor in off road and tech. The raptor has a linkage rear, WAY more wheel travel, way more articulation, it's faster, it has more tech, it comes factory with 35/37 tires, it has a much a more sophisticated 4wd and suspension setup. More ground clearance, a pano roof, a 2000 watt inverter, a 36 gallon tank, 4:10 rear end, dynamic bending headlights, aux switches, better seats. The list goes on an on. The only thing the AT4x/ZR2 have going for them is the front rear lockers which won't do as much for you off road as more clearance, bigger tires, more articulation and more suspension travel of the Raptor will. The only other thing it has going for it is massage seats.
  19. The only thing that worries me with the rotopax is I would want to make sure the fuel module rested it's weight on the bed, not by their hangers, not sure how well these aluminum beds walls will take 20-35lbs bouncing around flexing the bed sides. Probably not a big deal if you're not off roading but there was recently an article where a bed mounted spare tire on a ford cracked the bed walls on both sides (two mounted tires). Unfortunately due to NHTSA it's basically impossible for companies to manufacturer gasoline replacement tanks here (diesel only) that automatically feed into the factory tank. Similar reasons are probably why some containers that might work perfectly fine for fuel will have disclaimers saying not to use them for fuel. You can do a gasoline transfer tank in the bed that isn't connected to the factory fuel system, Titan I think makes a couple that also double as a truck tool box. There's also the Titan 15 gal sidekick option that sits from one wheelwell going forward, but depending on the truck it may not fit under a tonneau cover. https://titanfueltanks.com/titan-sidekick-15-gal-portable-liquid-tank-5040015
  20. Lots of guys say they want this, but few will pay for it, and those that really would pay for, have probably already had Hennessey do it. You can probably add at least $15k to the truck price knowing GM, and if you really want it. You can order a Hennessey upgrade to a supercharger from the dealer on a new truck, or have them mod your current truck. Not only that, but in a factory truck, now you have the same problem as Raptor's and TRX's, huge market adjustments. The Escalade is a great example......the current most expensive Escalade you can build right now is about $125k.....and that's adding in every ridiculous add on you can check..refrigerator....performance everything, sunshade, brakes, exhaust, $3k wheels....yet the new supercharged one STARTS at $150k. For that $ you can buy a new CT5-V blackwing and an AT4. Even in the CT5, moving to the the supercharged 6.2 in a blackwing is a $25k option.
  21. Yeah that sounds really odd that you have one fan doing one thing and the other fan doing the opposite. I wonder if they got some batches of badly wired fans/harnesses. On mine yeah both the seat surface and seat back pull air in, on both seats and exhaust under the seat. Which isn't too surprising because the fan module/part number appears the same for both sides. No idea if the upper fan in the seat back is the same type of fan or something different.
  22. Yeah it just seems interesting that some push and others pull (even across 21' GMC AT4's) Not sure why they did both, parts issues etc. What I can say is that the push version works 10x better than the pull version. I'd be tempted to wire mine in reverse to see if they would push, but the upper fan in the seat back is also pulling so I'd imagine getting to that one is not going to be so nice.
  23. Yeah I dug into this further today and I think they must have changed the design from 20' to 21' at least in my AT4. My 20' definitely took in air under the seat and pushed it through the seat. You could lay a piece of paper on the seat and it would "float/flutter" with them on high. I just tried this in my 21' and it sucked the paper to the seat, passenger seat is the same way. So they either changed the design or mine is wired backwards and the fan is running the wrong way. What I can say is my 20' the blew air through the top of the seat was MUCH more effective than my 21' that sucks it through the seat and exhausts it out the bottom. There's definitely something amiss, I posted the same question on a couple of the AT4 facebook groups and others have already chimed in that theirs definitely blow air up through the seat, 21' models verified. So either something wasn't wired right, the fans were a "covid" manufacturing QC victim, or GM changed the design during the year (perhaps due to part shortages). Could be a manufacturing issue, they use the same part in both seats so maybe a batch of them were wired wrong.
  24. Yeah that's my thought, if I take it to the dealer they are just going to say "well the fans are spinning it's fine!" Not to mention that we've seen a lot of horror stories about dealer techs not putting the seat covers back on right/tight and they end up being way too loose. It will be the same as when I took it in because the HUD bounces more and is slightly blurry compared to my 20' model, guy took a look at it and said "well I can read it, it's fine".
  25. Auto for those items (steering wheel, seats (heat/vent) is interesting, not sure if I'd like it or it would be too much, but you can always turn it off. I know the pickups will do the heated/ventilated seats if you autostart it as long as the truck is at a certain temp and it's engaged from the infotainment menu settings. However like most of the indicators when the truck is autostarted they don't illuminate on the dash. I can say I do wish the steering wheel had more than one heat setting like the seats do. It's just very odd because clearly by the arrow on the fan it airflow is going the right way, and the fan is running (at least the lower fan, no idea about the upper one in the seat back) but there's basically zero airflow, at least barely enough to notice even with the cabin cooled down with AC. In my 20' after a couple minutes you'd be turning it to a lower fan setting because it was too cold. I've also been really careful what I clean/condition my seats with and how much after reading horror stories about guys plugging up all the holes with seat cleaner/conditioner. I've tried a stiff brush on them, and also vacuuming them to make sure the holes were clear.
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