todd308

I actually don't mind the exhaust ports, though I do admit now everytime I see them I see HDMI ports. What I didn't like about the one ZR2 they showed is the exhaust outlet fires right into the back bumper, seems like to me that could be a restriction. I don't think what they did really saved them much departure angle, but it did give them basically the same #'s as the Raptor/TRX so that's probably what they were shooting for to be able to claim. It will be interesting to see if they corrected the UCA and CV joint angles on the ZR2, because they are pretty extreme even stock on the AT4/TB. We've seen plenty of wheels fall off with broken UCA's using leveling spacers. I also think it's important to keep in mind that while it might be a great off road 1/2 ton pickup, that's still really not saying much when compared to some other non half ton options. The ZR2 boasts basically the same approach/departure angles as the Raptor/TRX, (though much less articulation than either one) of 31/23 degrees which is basically as good as it gets in a 1/2 ton. However, compared to say a Bronco or Rubicon who both boast approach/departure angles of 43-44/37 degrees, or the Gladiator Rubicon has ratio of 44/26, the Tacoma TRD Pro will now be 37/27. Even the AT4 Yukon is 35/23, Land Cruiser TRD Pro is 32/27, 4 runner trd pro 33/26. It's clear that even the ZR2 Silverado is not going to keep up with other popular off road versions when it comes to getting it's nose over stuff. Though significantly better than the AT4 that can't even get to 28 degrees approach even if you remove both black front mall skirts Now of course if you have to have a 1/2 ton, of course none of those other vehicles are an option, but I do think it's interesting to put the specs into relationship with other vehicles that are considered popular for off-road to realize at the end of the day obstacle clearance wise none of the 1/2 tons ZR2/Raptor/TRX will keep up with quite a few other popular SUV type options including GM's own AT4 Yukon.

There's another angle to this we haven't talked about either and that's how the market has clearly shown that it will pay much more than MSRP for vehicles that are in demand and limited. Look at the fact some of us sold 20' AT4's for more than we paid for them used this year and dealers jacking them up $10K over MSRP and selling them. There's also all the dealers charging $10-30k over MSRP for bronco's and selling them. Heck some dealers are offering people that pre-ordered them $10k on the spot at pickup to sell them back to the dealer so they can resell them even higher. Many pre-order owners are paying the $5k-10k over MSRP dealers are charging them to pick up their orders even on agreed to pricing, because there's simply no other option if you want the truck. Ford won't do anything about it, neither will GM because at the end of the day they claim pricing is between the dealer and the customer, and MSRP is just that, suggested retail pricing. So if GM makes the ZR2/AT4-x limited enough in nature, and demand is high enough, who knows what people will pay. These days in the car business logic doesn't factor in as much. To me a $70k AT4-X is insane when I can buy a Raptor with 35's and the high package for $73k, but in the market where people paid $75k for an AT4 and $90k for a $65k MSRP Bronco......it probably sounds like a deal. In other news GM falls even further behind the rest now, the days the 6.2L power being special are gone, it's basically average power with a tiny gas tank. The 2022 Tundra iMax is going to have 435hp, and a whopping 583 ft/lbs torque that's almost 30% more torque in the optional hybrid engine. Not to mention GM is now the only company using 200 year old leaf spring tech, and 1980's sunroofs. Toyota as well has moved to a linkage/coil rear setup and from what it sounds like in some trims air suspension setup that can be leveled based on load, and ride height adjustment for off roading, panoramic sunroof. Plus if you like towing other toys, the TRD pro has 2500 lbs higher towing capacity than an AT4 with a 6.2 and 300 lbs more cargo capacity. Fortunately for GM sales it's really really ugly on the outside.

These days I'd say that probably applies to every big technical company these days. The smart people doing the work could do a much better job if only they were given the freedom to do so and frequently are forced to do things that negatively impact the experience of the end user. Usually by management reading too many motivational books, or focusing on the latest buzzword (which seems to currently be AGILE) that acts on incomplete or flat out incorrect information, zero technical background, or just cutting corners for profits.

Is it surprising? Let's face it GM is a company that actually believed the Z71 and AT4 were off-road packages. They're appearance packages on their best day. Their new Silverado ZR2......didn't even get the treatment the colorado ZR2 did with improved suspension geometry, wider stance, etc. It took them 3 years to supposedly fix the 5.3 and 6.2 eating lifters like fat kids eat cake, and they still haven't fixed the rear window leak issue since 19' This is a company that made the only gas tank size available on a 6.2 V8 truck 24 gallons. Heck they are still putting sunroofs in trucks in a sea of companies offering multi-panel moon roofs. GM still thinks the 420hp 460 ft/lbs 6.2 is a big deal as an optional engine. Ram is 400 hp, the 2022 Tundra is likely going to be over 400hp, the 3.5L ecoboost is 400hp and 500 ft/lbs. 420 hp isn't special anymore, it's average. While I might not like it, my guess is we're going to see a wave of hybrid engines coming and smaller turbo V6's

I've seen this before, in fact I noticed that my 21' HUD was blurry compared to my 20', not enough you couldn't' read it, but just enough to make it annoying. I also noticed that if I moved the HUD up and down it would become better/worse. I take this mean the glass is the issue not the HUD itself. I haven't bothered asking the dealer about it, because their new mantra seems to be "normal operation" for everything I bring up from squealing brakes to sounding like it has bad bearings when it cold and auto-starts.

One thing I learned when I went from my 20' AT4 to my 21' is there's a lot of variation in how well these systems work truck to truck as well. For example the auto high beams worked horribly on my 20' to the point I never used them after the first week, but work great on my 21'. On my 20' in rain I'd frequently get the radar collision warning at stop lights, as if you were parking and going to hit something, has never happened in my 21'. The adaptive cruise/lane detection is much better in my 21' than it was in my 20', my 21' has less issues with low sun/rain conditions. On the other hand the traction control worked much better on wet roads on my 20'. That said, I don't like using the adaptive cruise for the exact reason the OP listed in any sort of traffic, on roads with little to no traffic it's fine, and I'd never rely on it, especially for playing the game of coming to a complete stop. It does not do a good job of keeping track of traffic unless it's in the lane ahead of you, on a straight road, in perfect conditions. It also struggles to find the lane on worn roads, and if it can't find the lane it will shut adaptive cruise off. I've also noticed that if someone cuts right in front of you, which happens all the time here, it tends to confuse the system. The way idiots drive here in PA, they consider 2 car lengths more than enough room at 70 mph, these idiots think tailgating is a sport, so even on the shortest setting there's always someone speeding up and pulling in front of you (maybe this is why most of them drive in the left lane blocking traffic!). Unless it's raining, the only place i've lived where people are more scared of wet roads in Vegas, and it rains more here than portland. Honestly I'm not very impressed with the collision alert system either. I've had it threaten to lock the brakes up in situations that did not require it. A couple times I've had it freak out on an empty road when there was a black repair patch going across a light colored concrete road. It also freaks out if you are coming to a corner that doesn't require stopping and there's a car or person walking, for example driving through a park with a corner and walking path. It can't figure out the road curves and freaks out. I'm significantly more concerned the system is going to create an accident locking the brakes up when there's no need (and getting rammed from behind by the tailgaters) than it actually going to save me from an issue in front of me.

Do I really need to post screenshots from Ford's build website? Without the 37's you can easily keep a Raptor under $75k MSRP with the high package, as long as you don't get the 37" tire package, unless you start stacking on ridiculous stuff like $3k rim upgrades, $2k tonneau covers, etc. Now can you find a dealer willing to sell one without marking it up more than MSRP right now, maybe not, but the same can be said for many vehicles right now. When I bought my 21' in May everyone said there was no way to get deals on an AT4s, and I did, you just have to find the right dealer, full rebates and full supplier pricing. I'd be willing to bet if you look you can find Ford dealers willing to sell a Raptor without marking it over MSRP. Just like right now some dealers have Bronco's marked at $90k and others are happy to sell them with associate discounts under MSRP. GM can choose to water down the GMC brand and basically make it an appearance only difference, especially now that the half tons look significantly different. It would be an interesting move, but it would allow them to keep a price gap to the raptor in both brands. Now if you really want to impress me, since Chevy doesn't have a trailboss version of the Tahoe, but there's already an AT4 Yukon, show me a ZR2 Tahoe.

I admit OTD was the wrong verbiage for me to use. Show me pricing on a ZR2 that between rebates and supplier pricing and assuming a trade offsets most sales tax, that ends up around $60k. GM Supplier pricing on a basically loaded TB gives them another $5k+ to add on and still meet that threshold. It will be interesting to see what the price is come next year, no one knows what the rebates will be next year and GM might not even allow this trim to qualify for them, and dealers might refuse to honor supplier pricing as many have this year. At that point all the GM's become much closer in effective price to the Raptor because everyone buying GM's is used to significant rebates and deals, where Raptors are always selling much closer to MSRP. GM's real problem if they price the ZR2 too high, is the GMC AT4-X. If the ZR2 prices at say $65k, that means the AT4-x is probably going to come in at $70k. An almost loaded Raptor, if you can live without 37's, moonroof, and 2kw inverter is $72k. You have to figure GM knows they need to leave room for a significant price gap for the AT4-x to the Raptor. No one but GM fanboys are going to pay $70k for an GMC badged ZR2 if a nicely equipped Raptor is basically the same price. Now GM could kneecap the GMC brand and not add anything significant to it over the ZR2 and keep the AT4-X MSRP down much closer to the ZR2, but then you lose GMC sales because it's no longer the "premium" brand if it's the same features with a GMC badge.

Thanks for the correction. I watched their walk around and also the pyramid ranking and pretty much agree with it. While it might seem like I'm hard on the GM's I will say this. If Chevy puts the ZR2 at say a $60k MSRP loaded, and it qualifies for rebates, which basically means it should be OTD for around $60k, all I will say is as soon as it hits the market guys with AT4's better be trading in fast, because used value on AT4's is going to tank and dealer lots are going to be full of used AT4s. I don't see anything the 21' AT4 loaded offers that the ZR2 won't, and the ZR2 has way more off road capability. I can't see any reason I wouldn't dump my AT4 for the ZR2. I'm sure they will put something extra in new AT4-X, but even if they do, the ZR2 will still be a significant upgrade over any current 21' AT4.

It's a mistake to think the only thing the TRX and Raptor are good at is desert racing. Plenty of videos showing the Raptor can perform in Moab, even with the torsion limited slip front end, though any full size pickup is kneecapped by its width, wheelbase and angles compared to other non-pickup options. The ZR2 and Raptor have basically the same approach/departure/breakover angles but the Raptor has 1" more ground clearance, 4-5" more wheel travel, 3" more sidewall to air down, and significantly more articulation than the new ZR2 will have, those are significant advantages off road at any speed. The only advantage the ZR2 brings is a front locker verus a torsen limited slip, and 3" less width, and of course not being a Ford. The Raptor also only gives up 40 lbs of payload and 700 lbs towing capacity to the ZR2. If you want towing neither the ZR2 or the Raptor will be a good answer compared to other 1/2 ton options. Not to mention the rear linkage and coil spring setup of the Raptor is better both on and off road, between that and the electronic shock control it's greatly improved it's on road manners for a truck with 15" of wheel travel and articulation that should be even greater than the TRX this year, and the TRX articulation is almost twice what the current AT4 is. Articulation is huge off road on tough trails, it doesn't matter if you can make all 4 wheels spin, if only 3 are on the ground. That said front and rear electronic lockers are a huge upgrade off-road compared to what GM has been offering. Anyone that's ever limped a G80 up a slippery off camber trail spinning wheels to engage the locker finds out quickly. I was surprised they didn't do something to protect the rear bumper like the Colorado aside just tucking the exhaust up a bit. I do agree, the ZR2 fills a gap of still offering significant improvement of off-road prowess than the TB/AT4 (Let's face it the TB/AT4 is just an appearance package) and likely still being cheaper by a good amount than the Raptor, the GMC is going to have a harder time with that. Lets not forget the things you probably still can't get in a ZR2 that aren't off-road you can in a Raptor, including a 36 gal tank, 2000 watt inverter setup, moonroof, hand free driving, adaptive headlights, aux switches wired in, beadlock capable wheels, The AT4-x will be the most interesting to see what it offers. There was a lot of whining last year that the Denali trim was not really "top of the line" anymore with the AT4 and it sounds like only the Denali will get the supercruise. My guess is GM is going to do more to set the Denali apart as the premier trim. I'd echo again I'm most interested in the AT4-X price, it's going to be a lot harder to keep a significant price delta with the Raptor with the AT4-x than it is the ZR2. From what I see about the only feature the ZR2 doesn't offer that the 21' AT4 does is ventilated seats and a HUD. So I'm curious to see what else they add to the GMC to set it apart and justify the big price gap, or if the water down that difference between the two brands to try and keep a price gap to the Raptor.

First let me say it's amusing someone would ever consider a pickup for "wheeling" When a simple stock Rubicon Jeep will be significantly more capable than any of these pickups. Lets see: Significantly more wheel travel More wheel articulation More clearance MUCH better aftermarket options. The angles area actually the same as the 35" raptor, and worse than the 37" raptor Bigger tires, with option for 37's without rubbing, both on 17" rims not 18's for better ability to air-down (remains to be seen) but both the TRX and Raptor use a REAL lift, not spacers with horrible CV/UCA angles (remains to be seen) a fuel tank bigger than 24gal (remains to be seen) Raptor and TRX have significantly beefed up cooling for both trans and engine Stronger wider body frame - to be fair wider is a downside wheeling. computer controlled shock dampening is significant at speed, if you only off road at 4mph it's probably not 2kw 110v option moonroof bending headlight tech Aux switches built in power adjust pedals fold flat console work surface rain sensing wipers full reclining front seats hands free driving option GM's new screen is only the "largest" if you only consider 1 dimension. It's very short and long which to me isn't very useful especially for nav. It's basically what they've been putting in the buick's. comfort is subjective, but the seats in my AT4 are horrible

I'd guess it will add another $5-7k to the truck price, if you figure it will be similar to the price increase for the Colorado ZR2 as the bar. In the Silverado that's not a huge deal, but in a GMC, that pushes the MSRP to $70k+ For me if the price is even close the Raptor, the Raptor offers so much more truck, in off road prowess, tech features, power, and even convenience/comfort. The only other "hidden" advantage might be in rebates, you don't see rebates on the Raptor, so if people can still get $5k etc. off the GM's that will help the price gap. Assuming GM does not exempt that trim from rebates. $55k to $70k is still a big price gap for the Chevy, but $65k for this in a GMC trim -vs- $70k for a raptor....raptor every day all day.

It's not bad, and as others have said it addresses some things people have complained about. Lockers are great, the extra lift is just 33's instead of 32's it should have had in the first place. It does have some extra wheel travel and articulation but still significantly less than a Raptor. Suspension should be improved, but still vastly inferior to the computer controlled on the fly dampening and linkage rear the Raptor has. It will be interesting to see if it still has the 2+" front end nose dive the Trail Boss/AT4's do, on the commercial they all look very level, but many times what's in the ads/commercial isn't want shows up on dealer lots. That might be great for a work pickup, but a real off road package truck should sit very close to level. Front bumper is a good start, they could have done more with the rear. It should have had 35's, but that would take some major work. Console shifter I could take or leave, to me it takes up a lot of room that could be used for storage, I'd' rather see it stay on the column or be a knob. Interior is fine, screen looks like what the Buick's have had for awhile. Hopefully they made the seats more comfortable than my AT4. They need to step into 2015 and offer a panoroof. GM is in a bad position, they basically have to keep the price low, and the only way to do that is offer less and market it. A current AT4 loaded is $65k, if this new version pushes $70k, a mid tier Raptor that has more tech, more power, and way more off road capability is ~$72k. Lots of guys wanted to see a supercharger in it, but then it's probably close to $80k and for that you can basically get a tier 2 TRX and the TRX is so far beyond what GM can even dream in off road tech and design it's not even funny. 420hp is perfectly adequate but it's nothing special. Dodge's standard motor is 410hp, Raptor is 450hp, 2022 Tundra is probably going to be over 400hp, GM makes a big deal out of the 6.2L but it's nothing special anymore, aside that it seems to eat lifters like a fat kid eats cake. The Raptor was built from the ground up from off roading, GM is just taking their standard half ton and bolting a couple toys on it and the price needs to reflect that.

I don't believe any AT4's have adaptive ride, that's only in the Denali package. The only way I know to get a diff drop for them is in the real lift kits, I haven't seen anyone selling them separately. The only good way to lift/level these trucks is to either remove the spacer out of the rear to drop it closer to the front, or pay for a real 2.5-4" etc. lift that includes a diff drop. The problem is GM went the cheapest possible route with the AT4 and they didn't correct the angles with their "2 inch lift" which up front is really more like 3/4" and 2.5" in the back (which is why the AT4's look so much worse as far as the back end being higher than the front that the non-lifted Sierras). I park next to another non-AT4 at work and my front end is only 3/4" higher than his, but my back end is almost 2.5" higher and mine looks much more "un-level". So because the angles are already not great on the AT4 factory, adding any more up front causes problems. One of the reasons some of the level kits say not to use 4-auto is when it kicks in it's a lot more stress than just using 4 high, and since the angles are at their limit (or really past what the limit should be) 4-auto is more likely to cause a failure. We see plenty of pics on the facebook groups of guys putting on a level without replacing the UCA's and later having the UCA fail and a wheel separate because the factory UCA/ball joint angle is pretty bad on the AT4 even stock, add a level to it and it's really ugly. Even if you do fix the UCA issue, the CV angle is still a problem unless you drop the diff.

It's interesting but in my 21' AT4 while my BCM X1 white plug has gray wires in pins 21 and 23, pin 23 does not have significant voltage when the dome lights are on, it only reads about 0.1v above nothing. Now I did add 2 LEDs to the overhead console and tapped into a gray wire up there and they work fine as per: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/232272-interior-lighting/?do=findComment&comment=2476751 Not sure if that would have impacted things at the BCM plug. I can also add that if I remove the white BCM X1 the dome lights immediately die, but I have not been able to identify the wire in that plug that appears to trigger them. It's driving me quite bonkers actually, because so many of the resources say that's the place to tap into under the drivers area, but it absolutely does not work on mine.

One interesting issue I had messing around with these mods is that when I did the overhead console mod, I had no problems just tapping the gray interior lamp control wire, running a ground and that was fine. As a second mod I was going to add footwell lights, but BCM X1 pin 23 didn't seem to have any power when I checked it with a working LED I use for testing, even when the dome lights were on. Pretty sure I had the right module it was the only one with gray wires in pins 21 and 23, and if unplugged it killed the interior lights. In the end I just wired them into one of my upfitter switches. Using a meter it does look like the voltage increases on the 23 pin when the dome lights are on, but it's a tiny amount like 0.1v that seems nowhere near enough to trigger a 12v relay. Is anyone actually powering lights off this 23 pin wire, like in the overhead console, or only using it to trigger a relay?

Yeah it sounds like at least one dealer is replacing the stator shaft assembly and transmission oil pump in an effort to fix this for another user on facebook. It sounds like they've done that on other vehicles and it's helped the issue. I'll report back what the result is. I think my scepticism that they can fix this is simply due to the fact that it's been happening on 3 years of trucks now, so it's clearly a pervasive issue whatever the cause, but it's certainly not just a bad batch of parts. So even if they replace the parts, if the new parts have not been updated (which seems unlikely since we're still seeing new build 21's with this problem) it seems like those replacement parts would just do the same thing. I will say though it sure is embarrassing to drive a truck that sounds like it came from a scrap yard every time it starts or downshifts. I also have to say that while the Ford's, and Ram's I've had also had issues, it seemed like dealers were more willing to fix them, with GM it seems like they just find excuses to call issues "normal operation" or train techs to say "I can't hear that squeaking/chirping noise when the truck starts up......meanwhile I've seen people stopped next to me with open windows in traffic look at my truck like "That doesn't sound good!" when it restarts.

Just as an update I can verify that on my 21' if you drive in L9, it will not do the chirping at low speed downshifts. L9 disables DFM and autostop from my understanding so it would appear related at least in some way to those things being engaged.

Yep my 20' did this but only at cold start and autostarts. My 21' I now hear doing it at low speed downshifts as well. It's interesting it's the starter since I'm hearing it downshifting as well. I haven't tried it yet but I've read at least a couple people on facebook say that running in L9 (which disables DFM and autostop) also stops the noise at low speed downshifts. I've heard GM claim it's everything from the high pressure fuel pump, exhaust flappers, stator, starter, so far I don't think I've seen anything conclusive that was replaced and has eliminated the noise for anyone. You'd think after 3 models years they'd have this sorted out.

That's the real problem with issues like this not being fixed, this has been a problem on three model year trucks now. The real issue is we're seeing a lot of people getting sub-par repairs, paint damage etc. Plus after a while there's only so much you can go back to the dealer and complain about. It's like sending a meal back at a restaurant, you don't want to do it more than once, if you do you don't want to eat what they replace it with. My guess is it's simply cost cutting, GM hopes that slathering a $12 tube of sealant on it holds it till you are past 3/36, because after that, it's your $ to fix it, not theirs. "Normal Operation" has become the new cop-out for GM. GM is earning that least reliable vehicle "award" that Consumer Reports gave them last year, I'd imagine they'll be a repeat winner this year as well.

Pretty sure we've narrowed this down to a bad windshield, it does say HUD on it, and it's GM, but you can move the hud up and down and watch the text go from sharp to a mirror image in places.

I've played with 2 ways to do this, once in my 20' and once in my 21' lessons learned were applied the second time around. I didn't like magnetic or contact switch options because there just seems like no good place to mount them in the bed. Someone on another thread wired into the brake light power, the idea being at night the bed lights would come on whenever you locked the truck (for up to 2 minutes) and you could simply tap the keyfob to engage them again. This sounded okay, but I wanted control of the lights in the day as well and at least on my AT4 this only works at night. You can of course wire into the factory bed lights, but then you can only turn them on from the switch inside the truck. I ran fused Anchor marine 10ga power wire from the battery back along the main wiring harness and up through the rear drivers tail light. Overkill for sure for bed lights, but thinking if I ever want to power something else back there I have already done the wiring. Any connections were soldered and adhesive heat shrink tubing used to seal them. If you haven't used the adhesive heat shrink tubing, I won't use anything else anymore. I used a delphi weather pack sealed connector to connect the power/ground to the bed lights harness. The first time around I just used the included on/off switch included with the bed lights, it worked okay, but over the course of a year or so I ran the battery dead a couple times by leaving them on. So I added a mini timer, which really is overkill for this need but I had one laying around and it's tiny and epoxy sealed it's weatherproof (timers.shop). I set the delay for around 15 minutes. So you hit the switch, and after 15 minutes the timer shuts it off, if you cycle the switch you get another 15 minutes. This setup worked fine. I also liked the idea of using a low voltage cut off, but I could never find one that didn't need to be put in a fairly large case to be sealed, and I also liked the idea more of just using 10-15 timer, as opposed to running the battery down a lot further to a voltage cut off, should I forget the switch on. The timer also only drew 2ma, so it was a tiny draw where many of the low voltage cut offs were around 100ma. Timer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015Z2EQCU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Delphi Connectors (need a special crimp tool for these): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076MFXVZL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm putting the same lights in my 21' but this time I'm going to mess around with a motion sensor for the lights. It has an built in 5 min timer. The real question will be is how reliable this will be in turning off. I've seen motion sensors have issues with drafty areas, so if some cool/warm wind makes it into the bed will it trigger the lights, some also have problems with motion very close to the sensor. Should it prove unreliable I'll just go back to the timer setup, but I liked the idea of having hands free bed light activation. It draws more power than the timer, but still less than the voltage cut off. It's definitely not weatherproof but the included housing is easy enough to seal up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WJ9D1NH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Yeah, that's not a bad idea, I think I'll just have to get back into the habit of locking it with the keyfob.

I've actually noticed lots of odd lock/unlock issues with my 21' compared to my 20'. My 21' also likes to beep the horn 3 times as if you've locked the keyfob in it when a door is still open, or when I first get into the truck in the morning, 20' never did that. It's almost like the truck either can't figure out a door is open/closed, or it gets confused if the keyfob is still in it or not. I tried having the horn enabled on lock as an alert of it not autolocking, but it gets super annoying. When I'm working/loading the truck even walking around the truck the doors typically re-lock and beep the horn, about the 5th time that happens at 5am, no one is happy. It would be one thing if the truck didn't auto-lock till you were a few feet away, but by the time I'm at the tailgate it's already locking. Seems like quite a few are reporting this on the facebook groups, but only for 21's as well so it seems like they definitely changed something. Seems like for every gremlin I escaped in my 20' I gained two in my 21'. Looks like GMC is going to repeat as winner of Consumer Reports Most Unreliable Vehicle award this year as well.

I'd also add that another gremlin appears to have shown up that was never an issue in my 20' I have the setting set that will auto-lock the doors if you walk away from the truck. On my 20' it did this for a year without issue. On my 21' I'd say every 4-5 times it won't lock. When this happens I've even tried manually locking the doors with the keyfob and they will not lock. It's like the truck is convinced that the key fob is still in the truck so it won't lock.