Michael71009

Got my wheels and tires put on. Rubbing pretty good at 3/4 turn. I'm taking it in the morning and having another half inch lift spacer installed and I'll probably have to have a little trimming done still. 305/55R20s with a -18. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Bilstein 5100s at max height with fuel 20x10s -18 offset with 305/55R20s I had to remove my factory mudflaps for now. I'm rubbing at full lock on some of the plastic and the felt. Curious if I should add a 1" spacer to gain a little more height or if I should just go ahead and trim out what I can first. The bilsteins gave me right at 2 inches of lift. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Yea. Its still not quiet level. Still sitting a little over an inch lower in the front end. It looks alright for now but eventually when I get my wheels and tires I'd like to figure out how to bring it on up completely level. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Here's mine after the Bilstein 5100s we're installed. Measurements before and after are the 2nd picture Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

As far as to much angle, what is the difference in buying the diff drop kit and new ucas if I wanted to raise over the 2.5" mark. Isn't that basically all the comes with a legit lift kit? (The smaller ones that is) The diff drop kit is 30 bucks from American trucks. And my question about the spacer with the bilsteins, if the shocks wasn't set on the max lift wouldn't it ride a little better than being maxd out? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Never both, what's the reasoning? In theory wouldn't the 5100s be basically the same as as your standard strut just with the ability to adjust the height? I'm unexperienced when it comes to suspension systems. Tire size isn't really my main concern, I just like and prefer the true level look. I have run spacers on a previous truck and the ride quality went to hell after. My truck sits like a 2wd and rides like a boat with the ranchos. I've heard alot of good about the bilsteins planting the truck to the ground and helping with body roll in corners. My 14 has the cast ucas but I'm planning on switching out for the cognito ucas here soon. I would just like to get my level situation figured out first. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Question on the bilsteins, I just ordered a front set last night to level my 14 gmc. Would you happen to know exactly how much "lift" I will get off of those alone? Will just the struts be enough or should I get a set of spacers and even out the lift by setting the struts on the middle height with the added spacers? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I previously brought this topic up awhile back and was getting the same b.s responses. I did download a diagram for this circuit. It's been awhile but If i remember right the switch is ground triggered. I was going to fool with it and run some new wires but things have come up so it's on the back burner for the time being. Good luck Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Here's a couple things over the past couple of weeks. Finally got my morimoto hid kit installed. 50w ballast with the 6500k bulbs. The ballasts are riveted under the plastic dressing under the hood. Install was a breeze, took maybe an hour from start to finish. Light output is 10x better than the factory bulbs. Can't even tell when I turn the light bar on now. (Guess I'll be removing it) Also picked up an ole beater avalanche. Heaviest haul so far and it done great on a 5 hour trip. I watched the transmission temp the whole way and it peaked at 205. That was from stopping at a red light. Average the trans temp runs around 190 to 195 unloaded so I think it's pretty good considering some of the hills in eastern ky. I did have to use my helper bags. 55psi Is what I put in them. Without it the truck was trying to bounce off the road. And just a random picture of the truck. She's a little dirty at the moment. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I've wondered that myself. But after reading all of the negative comments about the headlights my opinion has swayed more towards the headlights not my eyes. Haha Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Lift, wheels and tires are next on my list. My first priority is getting some better light output. I'm possibly looking into doing the slt headlight swap so my drl' s will be leds instead of the headlight bulb itself. I put a light bar behind my grill, #1 I don't like the way it looks, and #2 I cant run with it on all the time. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

55w ballasts 6500k bulbs Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Ledconceptlighting.com If you call in to order you should be able to sway them in to a 10% discount pretty easily. My total order for my hid elite kit, 1 extra bulb, couple rolls of cloth harness tape, and a roll of their techflex wire loom came out over 200 dollars. They gave me a 10% discount because their website was messed up. I ended up paying 170 for everything. Shipping is free on anything over 100 dollars. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I'm not a fan either, I'm wanting to the pure white as well. The picture I posted is what I'm hoping for. Hopefully I'll have them installed this weekend, if so I'll post a picture after I get them in. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I wanted to be able to match these fog lights. Is the only reason I went with what I got. He did say the 35 watt 5500k is the true white, but the 55w ballast would produce more light output. And in order for me to match the fogs with the 55w ballast I had to go with the 6500k. He did say that if they were to bright that I could always just buy the replacement 5500k bulbs. Another thing that swayed me to go on with the 55w ballast was all of the reviews. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk