Jworks

Thank you fellows. I didn't know the cost. I figured it would be much higher at a dealership (which it probably would be some, but maybe not by miles....who knows. I have it at a local trans shop and they will be putting it in. I don't have the ability to put it in myself. I would think at a dealership this would be $650 labor, or more. And then parts would be regular GM parts. The trans shop is using NAPA parts which I don't have a problem with. I'm just guessing here, but I would imagine the dealership cost would be $400-500 more than the shop I'm using.

CamGTP, my trans mechanic said its the main rear seal (engine). He can fix it, but yikes, $575 labor plus parts.

I've got an oil leak on 2011 Sierra 4x4, 6 speed trans, 5.3 engine, and I was told I needed a rear engine seal. Labor will be $575 (plus parts). Yikes. Does this sound in line?

Thanks CamGTP. I did. Honestly I'm not a trans mechanic so I am no expert. There is wetness on the bottom up to the front of it. Two drops hanging off the back bottom of the housing. With the bottom wet from back to front I'd say its coming from the front. I guess I'll just have to take it to the shop and hope its not too expensive.

2011 Sierra 4x4, 5.3. 139k miles. I just noticed spots of fresh trans fluid on the concrete in the garage. Checked the fluid level, looked a little low. So I drove it about 5 miles, got the trans to 126 degrees and checked it again. It was just below the "HOT" mark. So I suppose it hasn't lost much. Is this likely just a gasket? Is that expensive to replace. *I had been in the woods today hunting and I may have dragged bottom in one mud hole - but not bad. Not enough that I had to engage 4x4.

Agree with Blaine Bug. I had bushings go out once like that and it caused "chopping" on the tire. It ruined the evenness of a tire before I knew it was a problem. Also have ball joint checked

I had the same, or similar issue once with my 4.3. It was the catalytic converter stopped up. I had to put a new one on. It was expensive. There are tests that can be run to check the catalytic converter to verify if its stopped up or not.

Does it have the trailering button on the gear shift handle? Was that on? Even if it was 5k rpms is a lot. I've noticed in my 6 speed if the trailering option is turned on and in cruise and Im pulling the boat it will have a different feel as it downshifts when slowing. But thats with the trailering button in ON. But its never went down like you're talking about with 5krpms. Was it going down a steep hill at the time? Hope someone else can offer you more.

If the rust is just in the wheel well and not too bad as you said here's a "maybe" option. I'd do this only on an old truck I wanted to keep. But it might work on newer trucks too. Like I said....this is a "maybe" option, to keep from going way overboard with new this and that. Get the wheel off so you can get into the well easily. If the rust is not all the way through with a hole showing you could use an electric sander or hand sanding block to get rid of that rust, and get it all. Don't leave any to spread. It might be that you end up going all the way through the metal to get it all....I don't know, since I can't see it. If you do, bondo works wonders at filling up places like that, and its sandable. I've used Bondo Wood Filler with very good results. But, of course, they make the body filler they're known for. About $11 at Walmart. If you end up using that I'd then get some of that I would spray the sanded area good with 3 coats of cold galvanizing. Follow instructions. Then I'd get some of that rubberized spray-on bed liner and spray the inside of the well to keep (hopefully) further rust away. Its just an idea.

I have 2 inputs on this. (1) Years back, in the late 70s - early 80s Amsoil was being promoted by people I knew that got in on the "Amway-type" sales structure. I had a beautiful baby blue, 1980 T-top Thunderbird I bought and put Amsoil in the 302 engine. It was suppose to last 25,000 miles. After a lot of miles, but way less than 25k, I looked at the oil and it was black, very black, and down a quart or so. I was shocked. I pulled a small amount out and had its content tested. That was 41 years ago so I've forgotten the report details but the one thing I remember that stuck out was the higher than normal level of chromium in the oil (rings) and the much higher level of silicon (dirt/grit). I pulled it out and went to regular oil. I got to thinking, the oil itself may have been good for 25k miles, but the grit and chromium was just too high. I don't let any brand stay in there for 25k miles anymore. Amsoil may be much different and better today, I don't know. Engines are a whole lot different, and better, than the old 302 of 1980. (2) I had a 4.3 in a 94 GMC pickup I bought in '96 with 55k miles on it. I used regular oil till it began using a little bit of oil (but not much). I recalled what a mechanic friend of mine told me before, so I added STP to my next oil change. He recommended it in every oil change. I drove that truck for 19 years and never touched the engine -- all that time using STP in with each oil change. It had 484k miles on it when I sold it. Yes, someone bought it with that many miles. All that time I used STP and conventional oil (Castrol). But that was a different era engine and not like the engines today. Today, I do use synthetic in my 2011 GMC. So, I kind of agree with CamGTP's recommendation about trying an additive (like STP) that definitely did stop oil consumption for me. I know the mention of STP can open a whole new discussion amongst motor enthusiasts. But it worked for me. I "think" newer engines probably have higher, tighter specs so I don't know how it will work in newer engines I don't know. But it certainly worked for me then and did a super job. By the way, I have a 2011 GMC also. 5.3 engine. I am just letting the dealership change my oil now because of my age and don't want to get under there anymore. They're using the Dexos full synthetic. 136k miles, no consumption.

This is just an idea. In my case, I know a dealer svc manager well and he's up front with me on all things. If you know one you can trust I'd go by and talk to him. Preferably somebody you know there in the service dept and ask them if it sounded like a module. I hope its not that. I was quoted over $300 on an aftermarket cruise once and just forgot it. If you find out that it is in fact a module, check around and see what one from a salvage yard costs.

Agree......let somebody get it out thats use to that. Broken bolt removal is not fun.

A belt should not squeak....if its the right belt. Try Shakenfake's recommendation. If it comes back I would somehow try to determine its the belt thats squeaking.....and not one of the new pulleys. I assume you did the work yourself. If so, consider the idler pulley and make sure its functioning as it should and keeping the belt tight enough. If it is in fact the belt, I'd buy a GM belt from a dealer and be done with it.

I have a 2011 also, 4x4, I bought from a dealer with 95k miles on it. At 130k I noticed the fluid was still pinkish and not the bright color it was when I bought it. I suspected maybe the dealer changed fluid before they sold it, but didn't know for sure. I was having no issues, but not knowing if the fluid had been changed out at the 100k mark like the factory says I wasn't sure if I should do it or not. I'd always heard NO, dont do that, it could cause problems.....just let it ride. So, I asked a dealer. One said they didn't recommend it, another dealer said OK. I talked with two independent trans places -- same answers, one Yes and one No. Bottom line after I thought it over a lot.........AND discussing it with people on here, I came to the conclusion (rightly or wrongly) the transmission shops "may" have a built in bias to let it ride and get a future repair job. Again, rightly or wrongly, thats what I decided and had an independent change out the fluid but -- not a full flush. I did it, and have no problems. The discussion I had with certain members on here knew a lot more about this than me. That, I could tell. They all said change it out. An independent I trusted charged me $160. Dealership wanted $250 for the same thing. You can make up your own mind because yours is a little past where mine was when I changed it. You are 135k , mine was 130k. Mine "may" have been changed at 95k at the dealership, which I don't know -- but I do know it was bright red when I bought it -- strongly suggesting they had changed it before putting it uip for sale. If they did, changing again at 130k "probably" wouldn't hurt it. In your case, it sounds like you've had the truck a while and the fluid has never been changed. So, to change or not change is a decision you'll have to come to. I think that shudder can be eliminated with what others recommend. I think I had that many years ago and did something like that.

Wow, that is odd. It quit acting up after you replaced the CCs....but then went back to doing it again. The same exact thing?? That is odd. I hate to say take it to a dealer...or at least a good mechanic if you know one that is real good and can trust. Thats what I would do. Fortunately, I have both a good independent mechanic and a good and honest dealership that won't jerk me around. I'm wondering about the gasoline you're using. But...I think even the off brands would not do that.

Its hard to beat one of those models for dependability. I had a 94 ext cab, 4.3 I drove for 20 years. Had 484k miles on it and someone bought it.

Catalytic converter stopped up is a possibility. I had that issue on a '94 GMC with a 4.3 engine. In my case it would crank up, run, then give it the gas and get to about 20mph tops; and sometimes just die. Not cheap to fix if thats the issue. There are people that can do a flow test on your CC to see if its stopped up. I would try to find someone you can trust because most of us don't know a thing about the flow rate.

Yep, in my case it was the "lizard" co. Having been in the business I recognized the "canned speech" and brush off I was given. In the end, I got my way and that dumb-butt girl with no real life experience got shown up for what she was -- a mindless clerk. I hope Spechuled gets this worked out.

I had a clunk like that too. I'd hear it on uneven ground going slow. It was a simple bushing (I don't recall the name of it) but it was right down near the wheel, driver side. I think it was about $20 to replace it. Easy.

It could be any, but like you I would like to know as well. I have a suspicion the name of the Co starts with G.

Several comments for you. I spent 25 yrs in insurance and I'm74. I worked as an underwriter and as an agent. Back then things were different. A legitimate claim was paid by the Company and moved on. Since I left the business a lot has changed. Its now called deny anytime there is anything at all out there to keep from paying out. Thats not true in every single case but I have had it happen to me when a guy ran a red light and turned left in front of me. In the older days turning left in front of someone was an automatic at fault. Nowadays, the silver tongued lawyers have built court cases otherwise. When this happened to me a relative also in insurance told me "that's what they all do now", meaning her company did that too. Its deny as long as possible and pay out only when they don't knuckle under. But, as said, this varies from one company to another. In my case, I was so mad at their obvious stonewalling I went to a lawyer and got him to do what we use to call a $50 letter to the ins Co. That worked, they paid up. As an agent I saw some weird stuff, very weird in some cases, where people just wanted an ins Co. to pay out when none was due. All that said, if your case is truly from an attempted break-in I would get a lawyer to send a letter. And/or file a dispute with your state insurance commissioner. (Don't expect any lightning action there). 3/8" is a lot of space for sure. Now, looking at it from the insurance Co's point and being skeptical, the door hinges were replaced 18 mos ago. So I have to wonder why that was done. And, were they replaced with good parts. In the photo I don't see any scratched up areas from the break-in attempt. No bent places. Why wouldn't the thief just break the glass? Trying to pry the door open would be foolish. What's going for you is its bent out 3/8" at the top of the door. I don't know. In summary, I'd say get a lawyer especially if you have a friend that is one and will do this cheaply. Another good thing for you to do is get a body shop to look at it. They are pros and will know if the pins are default or if it was from a break-in attempt. If its a legitimate break-in, get the lawyer.

Ruger, yes that is correct. Mine is a z71 4x4. I just have regular tires on it....nothing big or overdone. Where I live its not level ground. I get about 17 around locally. But flat out its 19 min. up to 21. I made a trip from Birmingham down to the gulf coast once and back...a trip of about 600 miles. Below Birmingham it starts flattening out. Just before I got home the computer hit an overall avg of 22. On average though its 19-21. I have a 6 speed trans, 3.08 differential.

Years ago I had an issue with the blinkers getting very slow. It was the signal (blinker) switch. Back then it was only a few $$ for a new one. Plugged it in. Done. I'd have that blinker switch checked

I had the same question a while back. I have '11 GMC Sierra 4x4 with 134k miles I bought used from a dealer 18 mos ago. I felt the dealership might have changed the fluid when I bought because it was bright red. Even though the fluid was stil a good color at 129k it was slightly less red than when I bought it. So,,,, do I flush, or just change fluid? The dealership and two trans shops said don't change it at all...leave it alone.... because a change not done at 100k miles like the manual says do I might get a trans failure. But, knowing shops "might" have a built in bias, and after getting opinions from others on here (and mostly from Ray Voy) I decided to do the change, not flush. I knew I was running a risk (at least according to shop and dealership advice), but I did it. After 4k miles after the change I have No problems. However, in your case, you are right on 100k miles. So....in your case....I would go with whatever the owner manual says. If says flush, I'd flush. If it says change, I'd change. I'd go with the owner manual. In my case, though I was well over the 100k mark by 29k miles.

that light is on the dealer that fixed the recall. See him. I'd think your other issues were caused by them too.