Everything posted by xps800doo
so i have a 15 2500 and it works fine with a eoh boat trailer. just picked up a 14 2500 also and i knew the ibc would not work and planned to get the adaptor module(https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Dexter-Axle/DX35FR.html) first off how do these systems work... what is this module that makes it work on the pre 15's second if i put this on the trailer what hapens if i pull it with my 15 that already works without it??
No, eoh is pricey, the actuator alone is 600-800 depending what one you choose, and more a pain in the ass to run bend and flare lines... if I was planning on keeping this boat forever yes I would do it but I don’t anticipate much more than 3 to 5 years... on my smaller boats over the years yes, I also unplugged the lights, but as the boats got heavier when you unplug your lights you lose your brakes, not worth the truck going forward a swim... I keep them plugged in. My bots are in the 10-14k range Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Electric brakes have become a normal or standard “economy” brake in the marine industry, all you are doing is energizing a magnet, use the waterproof connectors and it’s no different than backing the trailer lights in the water. Eoh disk is by far the best route! I have a boat trailer that has that setup and it’s awesome! Just to retro the boat trailer I’m working on is not worth the investment for a boat that I don’t plan to keep forever, I can swap from surge to electric for about $500 to convert to eoh is about $2500. it’s a second boat and not primary use for us but at 11k working brakes are a must in my opinion. Surge brakes well they just suck... I can’t stand the start and stop clunk, hate the feeling of the trailer trying to pass the truck before the trailer starts to brake, and not having trailer brake control at my hand drives me up the wall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
so will be in the process of adding electric brakes to the boat trailer and a complete light/wire re-do. I really want to get away from the frame mounted brake/light ground wire that you so often see, and run both ground and power all the way to the junction block! My problem I'm running into is running out of room in my junction box! designing it out, I'm coming up with 20 ground wires for all the lights and brakes! no way you will fit that on the one ground stud in your common 7 way junction blocks. I found a 10 way junction block, that will help, but I'm still looking at 11 positive wires for the marker/running lights. just looking for ideas and what you guys have done. trailer has; 4 brake plates, 2 S/T/T, 2 back up 1 center id bar, 10 side marker lights.
Yeah the $500 was out the door. Assumed prepped properly but the shop warned about painting chrome and longevity... he was bashing powder coating saying it will never be as good a finish and paint matched [emoji2369] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Second that, did the upgrade on my 15 2500 and 16 yukon high/lows/fogs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Has anybody taken their OEM chrome clad bumpers and had them powder coated? I can’t stand the Chrome and my local powder coat shop quoted me $150 a bumper to prep and powder coat, local body shops are looking at $500 ea to paint them. Looking for any input or experience that you guys may have Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
With my 15 2500 Duramax, I pull maybe a 5k lawn trailer stop and go city driving Short trips between jobsites stopping starting etc. don’t care enough to do the math manually the dash says anywhere between 8 to 10 mpg. With the 14k boat any where between 16-20 . The few times I get it on the highway it says anywhere between 18-22mpg with the cruise set between 70-80mph. Do I need a diesel no, do I like getting into the throttle, her grunting and taking off ...can’t replace it. More expensive yes more issues yes. Do I regret buying it... nope they both have their ups and down choose your poison Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I went with the diesel after the same back and forth... yes more expensive blah blah. im happy with the decision. i drive it for business 2 days a week maybe 50 miles pulling about 5k and then couple weekend days a month pulling the 14k-15k boat maybe 10 miles round trip from home to the launch. 68,000 miles and 0 issues with emissions
134 PAGES..... ? DO YOU HAVE DPN TO DQS ON YOUR CLIP BOARD TO PASTE??
So does that equate to basically a wear free brake? Of course anything mechanical can break or fail, but likewise the Jakes on class eight Can I wear out with you so need to be rebuilt Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
yes, i went to a dealership lot and bought a new arm rest assembly(arm rest,charging pad,and module) from a 2018 vin and it bolted right into my 2015. then bought a harness from pgamboa here on the forums thats taps power off the rear acc 12v plug. simple swap out
i'm curious to wear and tear on the exhaust brake? my experience is on class 8 trucks, you have a rebuild kit for the Jacobs brake system, are the exhaust brakes on our trucks the same and need a tune up?
Yeah same here don’t want the dealer to drop liner... I’m lucky to have it garage stored and seasonally stored in the winter, as soon as insurance is back in it I want to drop it my self and seal everything up with silicone, already did the brake light, have been through several car washes and haven’t noticed anything... maybe I’m just paranoid Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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