JNK13

Hi Travis1024, After replacing the fuse to a 15amp I had no further issues with the circuit/fuse blowing. It’s my belief that the 10amp circuit probably couldn’t handle someone like me who has a bad habit of hitting the FOB buttons multiple times to unlock the doors. Good luck and thanks for the compliment!

Just wanted to add my two cents to this older post. I have a 2016 GMC 2500 Denali Diesel. A few weeks ago I noticed that my FOB would not lock or unlock the doors. The alarm would set, but the door locks would not move. Of course this meant that when you opened the door the alarm would go off. This happened 1300 miles out of warranty (of course). I drove it to a dealer for trouble shooting. GM tech told the mechanic to replace the body control module. The mechanic did that but it did not fix the problem. Since I am on vacation and needed my vehicle back the dealership could not continue working with GM Tech hotline to trouble shoot further. Now my alarm will not set and the door locks still do not operate. I will have to follow up on how this problem when I get home. Not sure how this problem will be resolved. GM agreed to pay the cost outside of the warranty period. It would have cost me $547.00 for parts and labor and in this case it didn’t correct the problem anyway. So far I have not been charged for anything. GM has 80 cases of this problem ongoing according to the dealership. Ask for your area or zone rep and talk with the factory before agreeing to pay for this type to of repair. Factories have cash that they leverage for repairs that are not the fault of abuse but of poor engineering. This is not an owner problem. More to follow when I know more. Couple months since I created this post, but here is/was the issue. I took the truck to a different dealer he asked me to leave both key fobs for reprogramming and changed a blown 10a fuse. So it wasn’t the body control module in this case, just a blown fuse. A few months later and the same thing happened. Deciding I didn’t want to pay another $150.00 dollars to have a mechanic change a fuse, I did it myself. The only problem is I didn’t know which fuse it was. I discovered by pulling each fuse that it is located on the passenger right side fuse block upper left 10a fuse. I replaced it with the spare 15a as I did not have a 10a left in the spare slot.(probably used by the mechanic on the first repair). The owners manual has this listed as “Body Control Module 8” vice “door lock”. I don’t believe I needed to have the fobs reprogrammed in the first repair. I didn’t do that this time. I think the additional 5amps in the fuse will prevent this from happening again although I don’t know what the engineers would think of the increased amperage. I have a bad habit of hitting the fob buttons too many times in a row which might cause too much stress on the circuit. I will try not to do that. Hope this helps.