Mikebtte

Is this a new or used programmer? If new I would call Superchips. You can hook it up to a PC and update if needed.

It has to be a power spot triggered by the reverse and nothing in the fuse box or under the hood is going to reflect that power source.

Drain the fluid before moving it any more, over full will kill a transmission every time.

I grabbed power from the back up light. It's enough to activate the back up camera and is close by. Ran the wires out of the bottom of the tail gate. Into the loom and soldered it in right ne'er the tail lamp plug. Tucked it all away into the loom and looks and works nice.

As you say sometimes it shifts great and other times it sucks that would tell me it's ether an electrical fault (ground or wiring) or you have something sticking in the valve body. If you have serviced the transmission internal parts I assume you put in new fluids. Did you see any contaminated fluid or old fluid prior to replacement of the internal parts? How did the wiring look on the inside? Have not worked on an Allison in a few years. Last stuff I worked on I all required a computer to troubleshoot.

6L got some power to them! Nice and clean, keep posting and that ain't bad for an 07. Told someone mine was and 08 the other day right next to his 19 and he questioned me on it.

Many of the V8 cars had them, If you find one with the same sized axle you can bolt your gears onto the diff and rock it. Would make for a good diff and a cheaper price tag. The aftermarket diffs get a bit pricey.

First off, welcome to the club. We are mostly adults and understand the search function sucks. But if you need someone to get upset at you, head on over to GMfullsize. This can be caused from a couple of different things but is prolly a combination of a group of things wearing out. If the upper and lower ball joints are failing you will get this feeling as everything is shifting position prior to the wheels starting to roll. Ball joints are common on this year of GM truck and are easily serviceable. It is my recommendation to always replace tie rods when doing this as you will almost always need them done shortly after and you will save on labor to replace them now. Could also be the brakes or other suspension related issue. The sway bar end links just about fall apart when they left the showroom floor. If you can, get the front end off the ground and us a pry bar to move everything around. Lift up on the tires, wiggle back and fourth and side to side. If you can get it to pop you can locate the noise. Another option is to stand outside and listen while someone operates the unit and see if you can here the noise a bit closer. Your username cracked me up and indicates that once you fix the issue you wont return, but I hope to here back with the diagnosis.

GM had varying sizes on 10 bolts but if you can match up an axle I don't see why not. The Torsion diffs are cool. I have considered swapping the Gov bomb a few times myself. Only issue might be spline count from a car with 5 lugs to a GM truck with 6 lugs. Little research on the car side and you may have that figured out. Maybe something like this: https://torsen.com/product/gm-86/ I think a lot of cars got a 7.5 Diff and trucks had 8.6

If the catch Can fixed the issue I would laugh in the face of Honda. Haha, such a simple solution. Give it a go, ya never know.

I have been hearing not so good stuff about the Toyota and they don't make stuff like they used too. Many electronic controls are failing early and lots and lots of recalls. Most people I know with new Toyota's are getting tired of having to go in for a computer update of other fixes. Don't get me wrong, Honda is loosing quality as well but I think both can be a long lasting car is cared for properly. The biggest issue is the Honda GDI turbo engine that they seem to think they can fix the oil delusion with a software update. Ether way your danged if you do, danged if you dont.

That makes since as the 88 had no DRAC, I think you are good on that point. Forgive me as it has been a while, You should have a 2 wire sensor putting out a magnetic pulse the the speedo and a TV cable at the throttle body.

TV cable runs to the throttle body and controls pressure in the transmission for shift points. Should be adjusted using a pressure gauge. You should have a cable coming off the transmission going to the speedometer for speed. The DRAC was used as a buffer box to send a digital signal received from the transmission to the ECM/cruise and the dash on new year model trucks. 88 had no DRAC but 89 did. If you received and early 89 its possible to have one. It will look like one of the many combinations below. In the Vans it was behind the dash on the drivers side, on the trucks it was behind the glove box. Warrperformance offers units with a DIP switch installed if needed. Also a usefull source of information on the units. https://warrperformance.com/?product=modified-gm-drac-to-adjust-for-different-tires-gear-ratios-tbi

You most likely have a 700R4/4L60 and not a 4L60E. 4L60E had the DRAC and you would swap it for a Box with DIP switches or add them yourself. 4L60E was not used until 93. You have a TV Cable and will need to approach a little different in fixing your issue.

There is a lot to say for "wife is happy". Even if it gives you some trouble it could be worth it, haha. Seriously, Honda makes some reliable stuff and I bet the overall life it better than expected and if you care for it like your old rigs it will last for sure.

I have considered looking into putting a steering Wheel from a newer GM truck into my older unit. Let us know what you figure out. Might need a steering wheel interface for the controls. Easy enough to do a relearn.

Get some coffee in that cup already!

Nothing wrong with a good used LS engine. Seen many times people get a used 300K engine and put it in hotrods and go. No rebuild, just run it as found. It can be expensive to get into the engine only to find some issue other than lifters and a cam. If you go into it knowing you want lifters and cam you could be a couple thousand in and happy. If I was your neighbor I would as you to bring it over and we would knock it out in a weekend. All you would need was parts. As I am not I think you have 2 choices. 1) Replace current failed lifters with new and possible a cam (recommend to replace cam while in engine) Maybe a little step up while at it. You will like the power. 2) Used engine swap

Cool. No pressure, but we are waiting on you? Kind of like the guinea pig before the rest of us jump in.

If you need lifters in an LS engine, you can have any good shop do the repair. It is not to big a job for a experienced shop.

Tried Plasti dip for the first time this weekend. Not bad but I think I still like paint. Night give it a go in a few other things and report back on it. I'll see how long it lasts on the grill. Seems to peel off easy so far ?

I have seen many people run without the filter. Many argue it is only to keep the oil pressure sensor from spiking or to keep debris out of the sensor but I do not know anyone that was for sure. Its cheap to replace but if you leave it out you are likely to see no issues.