W8MCC

Turned out to be a bad crank sensor. Easy to replace and hasn't died on me in two months.

I didn't notice anything with the connector when putting the pump in. Which ground do I check?

Also... there are no codes, nor history codes...

Ok. This morning it died on me again at 60mph on rhe highway. It bucked once and then just died. I slipped it into neutral and had it restarted before I slowed down to even 50mph. It's like someone shuts the key off, just bam...dead. I did notice the other day when it died sitting still that the fuel pump came back on like 1 second after it died. This is what led me to think field pump relay. Now I'm no sure though. What parameters should I monitor while driving? If you loose a crank sensor would the truck die, or just run like crap? I'm stuck here...

Started acting up two days ago. It died on me for the first time. I instantly thought fuel pump because it started back up and then died. Then I pounded on the gas tank and it ran for a few minutes. I put a new fuel pump in it that night and thought all was well. Then yesterday it died again on me, but started back up. Today it died on me twice within a minute and I didnt make it 1 mile from the garage. I have changed the fuel pump, and swapped the fuel pump relay with another. Beyond this IDK where to start. I have a snapon scan tool and its logging right now hoping to catch something if it dies again. Thing is it seems completely random, not related to hot or cold. What can I check?

Well that settles it, doing it for sure now. Anyone with a constructive advice??

Were working on getting an 86 k10 back on the road. The trans slips between gears and doesn't have a working OD. Does this sound like a master rebuild kit fix, or should we be looking for another trans and just swap it in. I'm sure we could work through rebuilding it, but this would be my first time trying to fix one. Anyway, just wondering what to expect. Things like, how do you know if the pump is good, torque converter, any hard parts that could be broke that would save me the cost of the rebuild kit in case I just have to replace the trans anyway...etc... Thanks!

The actual tire size (what it should be) is noted on a label inside the drivers door jam. Assuming your sizes noted are correct, the difference is negligible. See below:

2004 SUBURBAN Z71 I need some help. My suburban sometimes goes dead. It will go dead every day for a week, and then not again for a month. Right now, its doing it again. I have: Replaced the battery (twice) on a new battery < 1 week old. Had the alternator tested 3 times. Replaced a questionable looking harness connection on the alternator with a soldered in connector properly heat shrunk. Replaced the Instrument cluster about 6 months ago with a rebuild due to bad steppers. (not because of battery drain) but I mention it because its popped up before. Performed numerous parasitic draw tests and found a possible issue: Here's what I have found so far. My natural battery off state is 0.03A or 30mA. I have confirmed this with a matching truck I have where it has an off state draw of 22mA. They're within reason to each other so I consider that the normal state for my vehicle. I have caught what I feel to be the issue twice, where I have a draw of 0.22A or 220mA almost a 1/4 amp and solid. It doesn't happen every time though. I only luckily found this twice while testing. The only way I can get the draw to disappear when it comes up by itself is to pull TBC BATT. And I only know its happening because I have a meter in line with the battery while testing. I can simulate this same draw by doing the following: 1: Wait for the natural off state to settle in around 0.03A. This takes about a minute, first it starts off at 2.8A, then drops to 1.8, and so on as features are put to sleep after connecting the battery. 2: Pull the LBEC 1 Fuse. This makes the battery draw jump from the settled state of 30mA up to 190mA. 3: Reinsert LBEC 1 Fuse. This then jumps the battery draw all the way up to 220mA, which I consider to be the actual problem. The thing is it never drops back down. It just sits there indefinitely. 4: (to solve the issue) If I pull TBC BATT that instantly drops the draw back to the normal off state current, and when I reinsert TBC BATT the draw doesn't come back until I repeat the process above. Notes: A: when this happens, pulling any fuses in the cabin fuse panel does not drop the current. B: There is an audible click from a relay or something INSIDE the BCM under the dash. My other truck does this too, but I'm not sure what's on the aft side of that connection. I checked out some of the free wiring diagrams at autozone. Unfortunately they're not organized too well and I'm getting lost with them, that and once the diagram enters the BCM I'm not sure whats going on with the circuits after that. Anyone here have some insight to what to do? Like I said before, I have another identical truck (just not Z71) I can swap parts and pieces with to narrow it down. I will mention that on the other truck, if I do the steps above I get the same result BUT it eventually does settle down to 0.02A by itself where the Z71 does not. It just draws that 1/4 amp all day long (usually all night long). Here's a video of my test: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SBdFzXxGzgdzuzAR8 Here are the two offending circuits in the underhood fuse panel:

Case is out. Something obviously busted internal. Ratchet sound from inside case in neutral on the bench. When selector turned past 4 hi clockwise into the spring tension zone of the fork, selector cocks into case at an angle. New one going in. Post pictures of internals later after I get it wrapped up.

All of the front wheel assist ranges do not work. I'm swapping the xfer this morning.

Plug out, snap ring normal

Now we're on the right track, a real test. I will check this as soon as I can. Does anyone know if my clutch pack is fried, would I still have 4x4 hi or low?

4x4 works in the air on jack stands not on the ground no ppwer from the front wheels. The case is silent, I can hear shifting and feel the motor (s) actuating by hand. Everything is working freely. My issue is with no torque being applied to the wheels whIle under a load. Thoughts? Clutch?

Is it possible to have a wasted clutch pack and still get 4x4 hi?

Buttons are lit and functional.

Are the clutches used in 4 low? Could they be so worn that what little resistance there is in the air can be overcome by being on the ground? What am I missing? Does the oil pump provide pressure to something or just for lubricant??

Yes I believe the front axle is fully engaged. I also replaced the front axle actuator. Truck on ground, engine off, 4x4 engaged, trans in neutral, turn front drive shaft with a prybar and the truck will roll forward. I swear it's got to be in the xfer case. Even in low I have no front wheel torque on the ground.

I haven't checked the fluid level. If it is low it's probably smoked the clutches then anyway. Or are you saying that fluid is required to keep pressure on the clutch pack?

The truck shifts to low but still no front wheel assist. Confirmed on the ground and in the air Also I had another test I didn't mention; I placed a 2x4 in front of the front tires on a patch of ice. Drop it in gear and the rear tires spin on the ice. No front wheel torque in 4 hi, 4 lo, or auto. The front does roll when all 4 wheels are in the air. It's like there's just enough friction to appear like it's working in the air but nothing on the ground. Calling for a foot of snow tomorrow... can get a xfer case today from local junkyard. But making sure I'm not missing anything first.

1998 suburban 1500 4x4 5.7 4l60e np246 push button 4x4 2/4hi/4lo/auto I need some help here. Suddenly my 4x4 quit working on my truck, details above. I have diagnosed everything I can. There are no codes or lights. The issue is no power to the front wheels while in any of the 4x4 positions. The front axle actuator is working, checked with a new one. The encoder motor is new, just installed oem motor. When the truck is on stands the front wheels roll in 4x4 but on the ground they have no torque. I put the front on the ground and jacked up the rear axle, the rear tires spin in drive, the fronts have no pull what so ever. With the truck in the air, 4x4 hi engaged, engine off, truck in neutral, I can roll the front drive shaft by hand and see movement in the rear shaft. Again, when it's in the air everything works, only on the ground it acts like it's still in 2wd. Does the 246 have slipping issues? Is that even possible? I've never had one apart but if there's discs to engage them possibly they are worn? My next step is a xfer case but I don't want to throw any more money away. I should mention I have this problem in auto mode too. Thanks