NCPGMC started following Driving With Parking Brake, USB Port & 110 Plug Not Working, Need some insight/opions on the damage to my truck. and and 5 others
NCPGMC replied to JimCost2014's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraI must agree with the rational, level headed consensus here. If you know the owner then forget dealing with the BS from the service manager, deal with the owner directly. I would want some type of warranty from the repair that was done. Luckily it only fell off a small lift that was what, a foot off the ground? Looks mainly cosmetic to me but I would have them replace the wiring harness on both ends; it looks like it was pulled and/or stretched and that could have torn or damaged some of the wire insulation or broken the connectors. When was this and/or how long has it been since it happened? Seems like the longer they drag stuff out the less leverage you have somehow.
2018 Silverado Z71 Premium Plus LTZ or 2018 Sierra Denali ....going shopping...anything to look ou for ?
NCPGMC replied to Joe98's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraJust depends on who you ask...The only way I can tell when mine changes is if I watch the DIC show it go from V8 to V4...Some people, however, will act like their truck does a barrel roll every time it changes...
NCPGMC replied to Ozer's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraNot sure I get what you're saying here...What truck company has changed their full-size pickup line more than "new cosmetic parts, minor upgrades, and putting in the bare minimum towards design improvements to give the appearance they are keeping up." That's all any company does. I have went and looked at the interior of GM, Toyota, and Nissan from 2019 and 2009 and the changes are all about the same, some simple refinements and a large touchscreen. As far as exterior goes, what do you want? What sort of innovations have you seen in other trucks that GM has not attempted/implemented?
NCPGMC replied to Ozer's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraI am not sure they will replace it without having any issues...it was my understanding from reading the letter that you should not just bring it in unless there are issues. Seems like a half-ass way to appease the courts and avoid an all out recall...I have had no issues with mine either but why should we have to wait until our vacuum pump fails to have it replaced?
Sure, why not? You can sue people for anything nowadays, why not that? There is a guy here that is suing Hardee's (Carl's Jr.) because he didn't get enough hashbrowns with his biscuit. https://www.orlandosentinel.com/features/gone-viral/ny-north-carolina-man-lawsuit-hardees-hash-browns-civil-rights-20190629-4jjhkhzkkbhkheiq25yb4pap74-story.html
Thanks for the links @wforrest08. Everytime I try and search for something I get a bunch of random results with only key words highlighted that have nothing to do with what I am searching. I searched for "engine hours" and this is what comes back...page after page...I guess I am spoiled by google and will have to try using traditional boolean search techniques...
Just out of curiosity, what does everyones mileage look like compared to your engine hours? Mine is at 19,700 mi. and 656.5 hours; that is about 30 miles per engine hour. In my patrol car the hours are really high compared to the mileage since it does a lot of idling day and night. I have read on the GMT forum about the same question but have not found it on the K2 one. I read an article the other day about this in medium duty trucks. Has anyones engine hours reset? It seemed to be an issue on the GMT line... https://www.worktruckonline.com/159096/measuring-hours-vs-miles-in-medium-duty-truck-performance
For your reading pleasure...all 832 pages about the Chevy Shake. If you buy it, it comes with a free membership in a class action lawsuit...I think it even has its own wikipedia page about the issue...
I am sure there are other ways to fix it and I think that most here on this thread would be happy to spend $20 fixing the problem. I don't need or want to sit around and wait for GM to maybe do something 5 years from now. Problem is, no one but you apparently knows the answer...There is a lot of brainstorming in these 16 pages and no one has come up with the solution. The only other thing drawing current is the sliding window itself. That would mean a stuck "window close" relay that it constantly running B+ to the window. We have all reached the conclusion that it is the defogger because it has only happened when that circuit is closed and sending current. In the first hand accounts, a burning smell and smoke is seen at the point in the glass where the sliding window makes contact with the fixed side. The schematic shows that the only thing controlled by the underhood fuse #10 is the rear defogger. Am I missing something here that others can surmise?
It might not be a permanent solution or the issue but my back window won't be blowing out in the interim...Cryptic messages are no solution either but there are no shortage of them on this thread...
My first comment would be to warranty it if your under the btb warranty mileage. If not, all of the parts I find do not include the capless filler. One's on gmparts, rockauto, etc. all require a cap...
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