Had some tailgating moron end up running into the back of my truck today. She ended up damaging my bumper on the passenger side and bent the exhaust back to the back tire. I cut the exhaust off at the muffler to be able to drive it for now and will be getting some quotes tomorrow from shops. There was no damage to the frame or back panel so I may just be able to get a bumper and replace it myself, then throw a nice catback exhaust on to replace that. Aside from OEM or original from the junkyard, are there any other options for new that won't have peeling chrome after a couple years? I want to keep it stock so I'm not interested in an aftermarket bumper.
Why do you care if the spare tire is not the same size? The purpose of a spare tire is to get you where you need to go if you get a flat, not to permanently replace a tire. Very few spare tires are full size tires, most are donuts that you are only suppose to use for 50 miles max. There is also limited space for most spare tires, which is why they are generally donuts or a smaller wheel size. Also, if you think putting the spare on and running the tread off it to get it replaced under warranty will get you what you want, you are in for a surprise. It will not be covered under any warranty and you will be stuck buying a new tire.
Yes, it is essentially the exact same truck as the 2018. They do this to wind down the old body style production line and get the new line up to full operation and still be able to meet demand for trucks. A production line for a vehicle isn't a simple thing to just turn on and produce at 100% right away.
Well I replaced the cable today. Both the old cable and the new cable had an ohm of .1, so there doesn't seem to be any difference there. Guess I will just have to wait and see if that fixes the issue or not. If not, I will probably replace the negative battery cable next just to be sure.
I've seen threads on the issue where the negative battery cable causes shut downs while driving but has anyone ever had the positive cable cause this issue? I had my truck shut down 3 times while driving so I took it into the dealer to have that issue looked as at as well as have the oil cooler lines replaced due to them leaking. While the oil lines were covered under the powertrain warranty, the positive cable was not (I have 39K on my truck so the general warranty is up) and they wanted $270 to replace it. I told them I'll take care of it myself instead since you can buy the positive cable for about $40 from any place online. So the part is on the way but I figured I would check to see if anyone else has had this correct an issue like this. The cable runs from the positive terminal on the battery to the fuse box, not really difficult to replace at all. Per the diagnosis, they claim that the cable is not able to transmit enough power at times, which is what is causing the shut down. I believe I will ohm out the old cable and compare it to the new cable when I get it before putting it on. They say the negative cable tested fine and the grounds are good, so I think I will leave that alone for now and only replace that if this does not fix the issue.
Don't just assume it is the sending unit in the tank. The gauges on these trucks often stop working or get outside of spec. My brother has a 97 K1500 and we had to replace the tank and fuel pump due to failure, which still didn't fix the issue withe gas gauge randomly jumping all over the place. Turned out to be a bad air core motor in the gauge, which was fixed after I swapped out the entire cluster due to the RPM motor and speedo failing. You used to be able to get the motors on ebay for a decent price and fix the cluster but the last time I looked they were pretty expensive. You may want to see if you can find a replacement cluster in a junk yard first, they are much easier to replace than the fuel tank/pump.
Does anyone know if there is a 6L80e shift linkage bushing that is available to purchase without having to buy the entire lower shift cable? A friend of mine picked up an 08 Sierra Denali that the shifter stopped working last week, the shifter linkage bushing was all cracked and rotten, which caused it to fall off. Temp fixed it with some zip ties to get it to my house and then I started looking for the bushing but found almost nothing. I did manage to find one item on Amazon but the reviews were so poor that I knew it wasn't worth the $35 they were asking for when I could just buy the lower cable for $27. Seems odd that I can get 4L60/80e shift linkage bushing from any auto parts store without issue, yet no one makes this for the 6L80e.
I currently have this oil in all 3 of my vehicles. I can't complain since I got it for about $8 each 5 qt bottle thanks to the rebates last year and this year. My TSC and Menards put them on clearance and then with the rebate it was a great deal. I'm running the 5W30 in both my Camaros (89 TPI 350 and 94 LT1 modded) as well as my truck.
Mine does move around a bit in the grommet but I think that is just because the grommet is rubber instead of a harder plastic material. I can't see the o-ring on mine unless I move it around. I don't think any debris is going to be able to enter past the o-ring on mine. But I also haven't been able to try using it at all because I haven't had to add any oil since my last oil change. I'll see how it works out next oil change but just the fact that I'll be able to use a larger funnel makes it well worth it to me.
Mine finished after about 9 hours and I just tried putting them on. The driver side was very tight and barely went on, the passenger side cracked due to the force I was putting on it. I'll have to check my settings and try another print, there was a bit of overage during my print so I may need to do a little fine tuning to make this work on my printer. I don't have a high end filament printer so sometimes I have to make a few adjustments to get prints to come out the way I want them. But I also got it for free so its hard to complain. Hopefully I can make a better print and get them in my truck this weekend.
Got home and downloaded the files, I put both of them together in Cura and sliced it, so far no errors or issues that I can see in the software. Cura claims around 8 hours to print so judging by my other prints I would say closer to 12 but we will see. I'll kick this off tonight before I go to bed and my other printing project is finished.
Didn't know this was an issue in our trucks but then again I rarely have anyone in my back seat. Usually just stuff and it won't complain. However, it is something new and cool to print on one of my 3D printers so I'll download it and take a look at the files when I get home from work tonight.
Did you reset the codes after replacing the O2s? If yes, how long before the codes came back? You should really hook up a data logging scanner to the truck and monitor the O2s in real time. See if they are functioning at all. If not, it sounds like you have a wiring issue. All 4 O2 sensors going bad at the same time and 4 new ones all bad is almost impossible.
Didn't realize you had a manual transmission. I assumed it was an auto when you said 4 speed with Overdrive. That's one of the New Venture manuals and takes a very specific fluid, definitely not automatic transmission fluid. You'll need the manual transmission fluid that these take, the new GM part # should be 19369226. I believe there are only a couple of options left for fluid on these unfortunately, the Castrol Syntorq was discontinued some years ago.
I believe as long as it has the CARB #, it is ok for emissions tests. Not 100% sure on this though, where I live we don't have any testing for vehicles, emissions or otherwise. As for the dealer, many will complain about just about anything. I rarely take my vehicles to a dealer for anything though, so I don't worry about it much.
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