Has anyone else run into the issue of USB 3.0/3.1 drives not being recognized by the MyLink radio? I have multiple 2.0 drives that I can format in FAT32 or NTFS and work just fine, yet every 3.0/3.1 USB drive will not work regardless of format. I guess I am just going to have to buy a micro 2.0 drive in 32GB for my music but it seems odd that a vehicle built in 2018 will not recognize 3.0/3.1 drives.
Check your battery and then check all your grounds. If that still doesn't help, replace the negative battery cable. I was having an issue where my truck would just randomly shut off for no apparent reason. After replacing my negative battery cable the issue hasn't happened again for months. Not sure if its an issue with the cable itself or the sensor for the cable but these negative battery cables seem to have some quality issues.
I can't speak to the GM performance exhaust but I just put a Borla Touring with dual rear exit on my truck. The pipe was 3.5" on my Borla for the flange that mates with then end of the catalytic converter. The 5.3 is suppose to only have the 3" flange, which I found out when trying to buy a new flange clamp since mine broken when trying to get it off. I got the 3" clamp first not knowing there was a difference and then had to go back and get the correct 3.5" clamp for my truck. So my guess is you were send the 5.3 version of the exhaust since it has the 3" flange.
When I was looking at the beginning of the year in case I had to do it myself, the best prices I found were on Ebay. Not sure if they will ship to Iraq or if it would be cost efficient but its worth a look. Amazon had it too, as well as Summit Racing and Jegs but the price was a bit higher. Its definitely a pricey ATF, most of the stuff on Ebay is $70 for 6 quarts. Regular Dex VI is only around $20 for a gallon (4 quarts), which of course we can't use in the 8 speed transmission. I don't know much about Iraq when it comes to auto parts stores but they don't even stock this ATF at places like Advance Auto, Autozone, or NAPA, so you are pretty much stuck ordering online or getting it from a dealer.
I'm not 100% sure on the exact amount, 12 quarts is the bare minimum from what I have read. But I also haven't done a full exchange on my truck as I had my dealer perform the TSB when I started getting the 1-2 hard shift. GM uses a machine to do the flushing, so it probably does take 20 quarts. If I was doing it a fluid exchange using the transmission cooler hose removal technique like I have on other vehicles I have owned, I would probably have at least 16 quarts on hand. Better to have more than not enough.
I also haven't had any issues with the ability of my 2018 to keep the cab cool and my truck is all black inside and outside. 134a and 1234yf really don't operate at different pressures like R12 did, so there shouldn't be any real difference in cooling ability. In fact, they are technically interchangeable since they use the same PAG oils. Its technically illegal but there are already people who have swapped in 134a on 1234yf systems using adapters. Mostly due to how cheap and easy to find 134a is.
Yes, that could a be significant issue. Didn't realize you were so limited in choice. The TSB is for swapped out the old fluid that is very prone to absorbing water with the new Mobil HP LV fluid and a new transmission filter. Anyone should be able to do it but the GM dealer is suppose to do it for free in the TSB. The fluid is rather expensive and you will need at least 12 quarts for the entire transmission.
The dealer you are taking it to either doesn't want to do TSB 18-NA-355 or they don't know about it. Either way, I would find another dealer. I had the same 1-2 hard shift on my 18 Sierra, had my dealer perform the TSB and it fixed it immediately. That was probably 8 months ago or so and haven't had the issue since. I would go to another dealer, have them perform the TSB 18-NA-355, and you should be all set.
It could be done but would require a lot of custom work. Which means expensive. You are much better off getting another 2014-2019 5.3/6.2 and using that instead of the 04 6.0. Use the 6.0 in another project vehicle or sell it.
No, they will not put 1234yf into a 134a system. You need to determine what the issue is with the system, not just try recharging it. AC systems are sealed systems and do not require maintenance unless there is a failure. If you have a leak that caused your system to be low or out of refrigerant, you need to get the leak fixed, not just charge the system.
Yeah my 2018 is 1234yf as well, I believe the switch on the GM trucks was made in 17. But its not been a hard transition so all the vehicles and manufacturers are different. Unlike back when R12 was phased out and all vehicles had to be done by 95, but eventually everything will be 1234yf and 134a will end up like R12. Then I'm sure they will find some problem with 1234yf and come up with an even more expensive thing to use. But as more vehicles use the new 1234yf, the prices will come down just like they did with 134a.
I didn't have any issues with my 2015 the 2 years I had her. My 2018 has only been through 1 summer so far and no issues there either. What is the temperature of the air coming out of the vents? It should be about 30-35 F cooler than the ambient temp when you have it on full fan with recirc turned on. If you aren't getting that air temp out of the vents, you probably have an issue with your AC. If you want to DIY, you really need to get a good set of gauges to be able to properly troubleshoot your AC system, one that has both Low and High. Those Low gauges that come with a can of 134a really doesn't tell you anything without knowing what the high side is at in comparison to ambient temperature. If you aren't comfortable with that, I would recommend taking it to a shop that specializes in AC systems. Your 2014 still has 134a so you shouldn't have an issue find one that can work with your system in your truck. I don't recommend the dealer as they are overpriced, unless you have some extended warranty and don't have to pay their ridiculous markups.
That end is what was directly connected to my catalytic converter with the clamp. The part I had to cut off was behind the muffler, I think that is the resonator on the 6.2. Not 100% sure on that though. That is the part in the first picture with the really bent exhaust pipe and the torn up tail pipe from me driving it home after the crash to the left of the muffler/front exhaust pipe. Maybe you are referring to the part after the muffler with the flapper and the 2 exhaust hanger mounts? That would be the end after the muffler.
2nd pic of cat back flange connection
1st pic of the entire exhaust
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